Cylinder 1 Misfire - P0103 and P1399

james'99

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Just to verify, did you attempt clearing codes to get it out of what may possibly be limp mode causing issues.

If you want a rough compression test, Take all spark plugs out and crank it and based on sound/time it takes to crank on all cylinders testing one at a time (one plug at a time), you should be able to easily determine whether cyl. 1 compression is considerably lower which I honestly doubt. I think wires or fuel injector...
 

aspehals

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ok, check compression

he reason for fuel pressure check how fast it drops with the key off, then *power* the injector and it drops faster. You know it works electrically, or you'd have a code, this is to see if it works mechanically.

You said you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so the alternate option is to pull the fuel rail up ~2" and leave the lines on it, leave the injectors in it, run the pump to get pressure, and see the injector sprays when powered.

Can you explain this a little better or make sure I'm understanding correctly?
So pull the fuel rail up and injectors out, run the pump (turn car on, but don't start it?). Then how do I get them to spray? Try to start the engine with injectors pulled out a bit?

Just to verify, did you attempt clearing codes to get it out of what may possibly be limp mode causing issues.

If you want a rough compression test, Take all spark plugs out and crank it and based on sound/time it takes to crank on all cylinders testing one at a time (one plug at a time), you should be able to easily determine whether cyl. 1 compression is considerably lower which I honestly doubt. I think wires or fuel injector...

I'll try clearing the codes to see if that helps.

So, take plugs out one at a time, and crank it with each plug out to see if cylinder 1 sounds different than others?


Thanks for all the help by the way...hopefully I can get this figured out soon.
 

james'99

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So, take plugs out one at a time, and crank it with each plug out to see if cylinder 1 sounds different than others?

Okay, so a compression test. The only real prep you will do is pull all spark plugs. You can also simply disable fuel by disconnecting the main relay under the steering wheel so not to be injecting fuel that is not needed.

Refer here to disconnect main relay...

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50047

You may disconnect the distributor if you'd like but not totally necessary.

Now, doing a compression test will check one cylinder at a time.

You know that you hear a sort of resistance when you go to start your car. We count "cranks". The "cranks" we hear are due to compression.

We can check compression by using a compression gauge.

CompressionTester.jpg


Assuming you don't have this, we will do a rough compression test. Instead of using this gauge, we will go based on hearing and observation making this more of a qualitative test then a quantitative test which should theoretically offer results that are viable to diagnose this issue. In a regular compression test, we would do a consistent number of cranks across all the cylinders for consistency. While it is still good practice here, it is not totally necessary because there is no gauge to record the compression. Now. An engine with no spark plugs has no compression and will sound like its just turning over at a constant speed. Kind of like this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_OeRk7o0lI

But with one spark plug in, it will sound like cranking, unless there is no compression. If it sounds like it is cranking much easier on one cylinder than another, in your case cyl. 1 v all the others, there is lower compression and you should probably go about a more quantitative test before condemning the engine.

So when I say one cylinder at a time, you will install a single spark plug, crank and listen. Then remove that spark plug, and install one on another cylinder and repeat the test till you get through to the end. If all of them sound the same, you have good compression and you should look to replace wires and check your injector. I don't think compression will be your issue but this is a free test.

If you want to hear what your engine personally sounds like with zero compression as a reference point, take out all spark plugs and turn the key.

Let me know if this helps and your results!

EDIT: On a side note, happy to help! As a community, we all like to save everyone money and give assistance where possible.
 
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aspehals

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Sorry...We've had some terrible weather here this past week and I haven't had a chance to work on the car yet. I should be able to get around to it today, and I'll update the thread.

Thanks for the detailed instructions! Very helpful.
 

james'99

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Sorry...We've had some terrible weather here this past week and I haven't had a chance to work on the car yet. I should be able to get around to it today, and I'll update the thread.

Thanks for the detailed instructions! Very helpful.

If you have any more questions, let me know! I'll be on and off all day as I usually am. Haha! I was just interested to hear what came of it.
 

aspehals

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Ok so I got around to doing the rough compression test this evening.

As far as I can tell, cylinder 1 sounded exactly the same as all the others, so I'm guessing it isn't a compression issue, which you expected.

Now..injectors. Is the method that xci.ed6 described the way I should do it?
Pull fuel rail up with injectors in it and watch them spray?
I'm asking because I tried to pull the fuel rail up today and had some trouble getting it far enough out. If I had some more time I could probably do it though.

Is there an easy way to test wires without buying a new set?

Also - I noticed today that it happens consistently when there's a quick change in throttle input. If I rev it slowly it seems okay. And then there's the random misfires as well...
 

james'99

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Ok so I got around to doing the rough compression test this evening.

As far as I can tell, cylinder 1 sounded exactly the same as all the others, so I'm guessing it isn't a compression issue, which you expected.

Now..injectors. Is the method that xci.ed6 described the way I should do it?
Pull fuel rail up with injectors in it and watch them spray?
I'm asking because I tried to pull the fuel rail up today and had some trouble getting it far enough out. If I had some more time I could probably do it though.

Is there an easy way to test wires without buying a new set?

Also - I noticed today that it happens consistently when there's a quick change in throttle input. If I rev it slowly it seems okay. And then there's the random misfires as well...

Hard to say on the wires. Very close visual inspection it probably the way to go. Look for cracks! But there is a random misfire... Have you tried running the car with the green connector on the side of the alternator disconnected? I don't know if I previously mentioned in this thread but that will cause misfires. I just have never seen it throw a P0301. Only the 1300 codes.

vfl7va_zpsb7ac6332.jpg


Try running the car with the connector circled in red disconnected and lets see if it makes a difference!

I'll let xci expand on his fuel rail removal. I'd have to look at it to report. So I'm sorry for that. I can't look at the moment.

Glad the compression is good!
 

aspehals

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I tried running it with that connector off and it didn't change anything..oh well.

I've ran the car a bunch of times after clearing the codes last week, and I know it's still misfiring (easy to hear/feel), but the codes haven't come back up. I just thought that was weird.

Could low coolant have any affect on this? I was told last time I got an oil change that my engine block to heater valve hose has a pinhole leak and my coolant is low. I have the hose...just haven't replaced yet. I haven't bothered putting more coolant in since I need to drain it to replace the hose, and this misfiring happened very shortly after I found out about that. I don't see how they'd be related..but just wanted to give you the whole picture.

Maybe I'll just get a new set of wires and hope that I can return them if it doesn't help anything.
 
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