temp gauge acting weird....

DarkSideAccord

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seems like my temp needle is not getting signal consistently... it'll work 90% of the time, but sometimes it'll just stay at C, then jump up and down a lil before settling at the normal operating temp... pretty sure it's a sensor of some kind, but where is it? :thinking:
 

Russianred

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Mine actually does the same thing sometimes. When I converted to OBD1, I thought it would be dysfunctional. Alas, I was wrong to my relief - it works perfectly. I have the same issue Roy does though, sometimes it won't catch especially on a cold start, and the temp will remain below 0 (inactive). Then when it warms up, or after being warm for a while, it will bounce to the correct temp (right around a quarter of the range, below half). I am also wondering, if this a sensor? Or is it occasional shorting out of wires? Any input would be appreciated on both of our issues. Thanks!

- Nikita
 

DarkSideAccord

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i would think it's a sensor, but what sensor would it be? is there one on the thermostat housing?
 

1NonlyAccord

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if you follow the top hose to the block..Look a little further back on the block and youl see a brass fitting with a single black wire going to it.thats where mine is for 4cyl anyways...well was until i snapped the sensor off into the block..ha

broken2.jpg

broken1.jpg
 
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Drift

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What year is your car? The 98-99 are different than the 00-02. The early models used a temp sender that goes right to the dash. The later models only use the ECT sensor and the ECU send the temp signal to the dash.

If yours is an early model, then im willing to bet its the sender. In which case, its right under the dizzy and it looks like an 1/8in headphone jack. Cheap part to replace too.

Be sure to check your wiring first, a free repair is always the best kind!
 

DarkSideAccord

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well, i did a h23 head swap and went obd1.... does the solution still apply to me? i am running a chipped p28 ecu
 

finch13

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Check the head for the sensor. Stop being lazy, Roy.

Use an OEM unit, it's about $30 vs. $20 aftermarket. From personal experience, the aftermarket ones BLOW BIG MONKEY DICK.
 

Jfuentes87

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if you follow the top hose to the block..Look a little further back on the block and youl see a brass fitting with a single black wire going to it.thats where mine is for 4cyl anyways...well was until i snapped the sensor off into the block..ha


broken1.jpg

that's were mine is, and that suck that yours broke like that. Have you tried to drill it out? or just dont care?
 

Jfuentes87

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My plug actually desinigrated from a recent oil leak, I went to honda to buy a new one they only sold the entire engine harness for $300, so they told me to wire up an aftermarket one works like a champ. I bought a sunpro brand from autozone for $40, only thing I dont like is that it dosent match my LED cluster now :(
 

Drift

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well, i did a h23 head swap and went obd1.... does the solution still apply to me? i am running a chipped p28 ecu

The cluster is original? Because that will matter. If its an early model accord, then the h23 sender should work with the original cluster.

Im running a VDO water temp gauge and even though its a cheap gauge, it works 100 times better than the factory one. The OEM gauges on every car give you 3 settings, cold, normal, and over heating. Any aftermarket gauge will have a nice sweep to it and is much more accurate. Just so you know. . .
 

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