If you are going to return the core then go with the lowest cost one that offers lifetime warranty. PS Pumps on a 4cyl are pretty easy to change with just 3 bolts and 1 belt to remove.
If not returning the core, I'd say go with the new Cardone with a Lifetime Warranty.
Look at the end of the cam shaft in the engine. The slot is offset on one side. Position the distributor the same rotating it by hand and gently attempt to place it in. It should go in easily and not need be forced.
Re-align by re-positioning the distributor and retry if no go.
ie. I googled...
Just bring the keys to get reprogrammed. If i recall my compustar used the iDataline Blade AL bypass when Autolinks installed it and nothing needed to be done with it after reprogramming extra keys
They're installed on the car already?
I'm assuming you already tried asking the person you bought them from?
Personally for our streets I would go as high as 10/8 but that's me and I like to be comfortable and not have my insides rattle when driving downtown.
Tried resetting the code? Does it come back right away at key on, engine off? Does it come back at engine running rough in idle or only when you actually start driving it?
Before buying parts test the vtec switch/sensor first. Also im assuming there is no air leaks after changing out the IACV
I think its smaller then 74...my D4 burnt 1-2 months after when i bought my accord back in 2007 and what I did to start with was just changed the bulb and put the D2 bulb in D4. I didnt care much if D2 didnt light up.
In the end I bought a bulb at the dealer for $4 and fixed the D2 as well.
Had a friend with a similar experience as yours OP when changing axle seals and found out that the aftermarket seal was actually a tad smaller than the OEM honda seal.
Glad you got your issue fixed.