I need to run vtec full time but I can't buy a killer cam because my spare f23 is going into a lemons racecar. I also don't have a stock ecu it is water damaged, and it's being turbocharged. I'm going to buy a phearable ecu so I don't grenade this thing, but that costs more money. It's not a bad...
I have to turn the key again.
Is it normal if you turn your key backwards slightly and it cuts the engine and stays in II with all accessories working, but the odometer shuts off? I don't think that's what my car is doing by itself, but I can do it if I try. I'm not 100% the odometer is on or...
Nope. Only the engine turns off it would be just like you stuck the key on an turn it to II except the check lights don't come on only the lights that stay on.
It just shuts off like you turned the key, but stays in the II position.
It's been really hot past few days and it hasn't done it so cleaning the tb might have fixed it, but I'd like to get to the bottom of the problem.
True but nobody else understands that, I can't get a buyer. The reason behind me asking is to see if it would be a bad idea to do an engine rebuild. Mine doesn't need a rebuild but if I do I'll keep the car longer, I can say the engine has less miles and I won't keep it stock.
I've actually had this same problem and I'm going to say it's probably the multi function switch. It seems like the absolute weirdest problem to have I know. First my pump stopped working, it started working again once i fiddled with it, so I spray fluid with the car off, pack everything up...
I haven't seen anything saying you need h22 head bolts, but I also haven't seen anything saying you need f23 head bolts. I'm assuming you need f23 head bolts, right? The only reason I assume that is because you can use an h23 head too which shares our head bolts, but I guess it could vary...