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Thread: H22 Swap
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:49 PM
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Re: H22 Swap

02-02-2006, 08:34 PM

the car is pretty much finished. We started it this morning with no real issues. My Bro finished working the exhaust since the accord and prelude exhausts are a little different. I replaced a ball joint that was damaged in the tear down. And I finished , what I hoped would be the finishing touches on the wiring.

Last night I stunk up my entire house spray painting the intake tube black with BBQ grill paint. Its heat resistant up to 1000 degrees, I figured it couldn't hurt to keep temps down on the intake side of things, but I doubt it will do very much besides looking the tits.

I didnt want any one thing to stand out too much more than the motor. My intentions the whole way through have been to keep it as clean and stock looking as possible.

I think we did a decent job of that.

(Anyone remember Honduh.com?

the initial drive was exciting. The car is very responsive throttle wise. It wants to spin all the way up to redline. Unfortunately for me, VTEC is not working yet, so I still have some wiring to figure out. Also, Our cars have a different method of sending the engine coolant temp to the gauge cluster, so that isnt working either. I think they may have something to do with each other. There is also a CEL, but with no EGR,
no EVAP and for just having swapped the motor in, that doesnt surprise me.

02-05-2006, 10:29 PM
I finally got some things sorted out. I figured out that I can scan codes the exact same way I used to with the DLC with the f23, by just grounding one of the wires. So I hacked into the DLC connector and made my own connector to plug in and check codes with, (pics to come). The single code that was stored was a TWS code (Honda Term for ECT, its means Thermal Water Switch). Essentially the ECU wasnt seeing a coolant temp. So I fixed that and brought
the ecu out of limp mode, which means: VVVVTTTTTEEEEEEEECCCCCCC!!!!!! It pulls pretty hard, and you can feel each set of lobs engaging.
VTEC fully kicks in about 5200rpm and redlines at 7700rpms! Its awesome to watch the tach wrap almost all the way around the dial.

I havent wired in the water temp gauge in the cluster, but I think I have it figured out and should be sorted by tomorrow. I am also waiting for a Fan relay timer from work (which at my cost was $101!!) And then I can fully wire in the ECT sensors to the fans. Right now the fans run constantly, which is better then not running at all. The relay comes in on Tuesday, it will go in when I get it.

Once I brought the car out of limp mode it brought on some other issues. The car was idling just fine, with the occasion stall under have electrical load when idling, (a function of the iacv, ecu, and a/c compressor switch, etc). No big deal, but now it wont idle at all. When driving I have to heal-toe the throttle and brake. If I engage the clutch while driving and let the idle fall, the needle will just drop and the engine will stalls. Ive gotten pretty smooth with the clutch starts though.
I have a plan of attack for tomorrow, but if that doesnt work Im not sure what to do next.

I brought the car into work to show some of the techs. The older techs looked impressed and bewildered as to why one would take the time to do such a thing. A couple of the older techs, who have worked with Hondas for over 50 years between the two of them, have offered to help me sort out some of the electrical issues. One has some a particular interest in helping, luckily he is the electrical guru of the shop too. He thinks we can get it to run live streaming data,
which would be sweet to see what the ecu is seeing from the sensors.

The LSD is ****ing awesome. It helps the car rotate so smoothly. And the gearbox is really short. 80mph is about 3800rpm, but with a 7700rpm redline, there is plenty left.

I had a lot more in the post that got "errored" somehow and disappeared. Thats all Ive got for now though.

Now that VTEC works, I truly drive a sleeper.

2.08.2006 4:48pm

Pictures 404

I guess Ill do my ECT sending unit update here instead of the other thread. I hooked up my volt meter to the sending unit wire inside the cabin and the other lead to ground (duh!). and I was able to see the temp in measurements of Ohms. It is actually very,very helpful. Using this and the knowledge that at 133 degrees F, the resistance should be 142ohms, and at 185-212 degrees F, it should be between 49-32 ohms, I can roughly tell the temp of the car.
And now that I can, I can tell that its running very cool. Almost too cool. If I were to cruise at around 45-50 under very light throttle, I can actually bring it back into open loop just by cooling the engine off. The lowest ohmage I saw was actaully about 85-90ohms, which would translate into about 160-165 degrees. Thats way below Normal Operating temperature. Im still have to wire in my fan relay time, but Im trying to work out the hybrid wiring map I have to make still.

I picked up the fan relay timer yesterday and had paid my $101 when I had ordered it. Im determined to use it, even if I dont have to. I paid way too much for it so **** it.

But it was only the boc, and I dont have the connector that goes into it. so I had to make my own wiring again.

and the end result:

My dog Max was there for moral support.

But going back to the temp gauge. . . I was sick of not knowing what temp my car was, that is such a crucial thing to not know. So I went to the Boston area mecca of electronics, You-Do-It Electronics, and bought 2 mini multimeters for $5/each.

(On the right is my bomb-digidy Blue Point meter)

I also bought some essentials like shrink wrap and 18awg wire, etc. As for right now, its a temporary fix, but it works rather well. Better then the temp gauge on the cluster actually. I never realized how dampened the stock gauge was until today. The temps changes much from idle to cruise to WOT and back. But the stock gauge will get to one point on the dial and stay there no matter what.

Anyway, this is now mot current temp gauge:

(Thats about 80 degrees, I think)

Im feeling very ADD tonight so Il go back to the running too cool issue. Im not sure what thermostat there is in there. It may some cRaZY jDm tYte **** Yo! But I freeze my nuts off when Im driving for like an hour because the car doesnt heat up right. It sucks.

02-09-2006, 10:16 PM
Originally Posted by iml2001ser
01 accord sedan dx, how did you read your car codeS? how did you take your car out from limp mode?
Ok, so you had to deal with the same problems I did. Did you wire in the knock sensr correctly with the shielded wire? It cant see any stray voltage or you will see a KS code. Same goes with the CYP and TDC, both are to be sheilded. Do you have any idea as to what temp you are running? Because if the ecu isnt seeing a ect signal it will go into limp mode.

To check codes, (in the USDM ecu at least, I dont know about the JDM ecu) ground out pin number D4 and if the CEL is wired correctly, it will prodice flash codes.

If its wired in right, which Skunk2 kindly did for me, you can run codes the exact same way all the OBDII guys do,

[insert paperclip jumper in OBDII port]

1 Heated Oxygen Sensor
10 IAT
12 EGR
15 Ign output Sig
16 Fuel Inj
17 VSS
20 ELD (Electrical Load Detector)
23 KS
41 HO2
43 02/Fuel Supply

Not knowing how you did the wiring makes it really hard for me to help you. When I was doing my wiring I had (and have) all the wiring diagrams from both cars, so I could wire it exactly how honda has it. But I dont know what you have going on, so. . .

I actually spent the time the other night going through my diagrams and mapping out what the skunk2 harness should have done from pin to pin. Its in a Excel format, I can send it to you if you PM me your email address.


Last edited by Drift; 01-25-2010 at 11:12 PM.
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