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Old 03-28-2012, 12:39 AM
I Grok NSX I Grok NSX is offline
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Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Hi all, my first post here. I did a timing belt/water pump/valve adjust on my Accord and I'm not sure I tightened the Intake manifold enough. Not having a shop manual, I torqued them to 20 ft/lb knowing it's aluminum. Not sure it's enough. Now I'm having a problem of not getting the motor above 3400 rpm's without it coughing. I'm thinking it's sucking air in from the Intake Manifold gasket. But I don't hear a vacuum sound. I've read the post about others not being able to get the rpm above 4000.

So, does anyone know the torque of the bolts/nuts that hold the manifold on? Thanks much. I'll let you know if it fixes the problem.

Just to let you know, the car runs GREAT, very smooth, and accelerates fast up to where it starts to "cough".

Thank you!
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:42 AM
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

If i4 then...


PS. Did you already attempt to reset the ECU? made sure oil level is up to the top mark, replaced all gaskets you took off with new ones and took off old ones fully?
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Last edited by 001Stunna; 03-28-2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:51 AM
I Grok NSX I Grok NSX is offline
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Thank you for the reply. My bad....I didn't specify the motor is a V6.

I didn't replace the intake manifold gasket, but if none of your suggesting work, I will. The old gasket came off very easily and no old gasket material remained. I cleaned the gasket seating surface well before reusing the gasket. I've reused intake gaskets before without issue, but I will replace it if nothing else works.

Haven't checked the oil, but will do so first thing and let you know what happens.

I removed the negitive post from the battery (for safety). Does that reset the ECU?
If not, how is the ECU reset?

Thank you again.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:20 PM
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Okay. So I found the thread on the EGR valve and the Service Bulletin. In the Service Bulletin, the torque for the manifold is listed as 16 ft lbs.

I didn't originally torque the bolts that tight being I was afraid of stripping the threads being they are aluminum. Okay, so tightened the bolts/nuts to 16 ft. lbs. and still not able to get above 3500 rpm. Going to remove the manifold tonight and check out the EGR Valve.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:56 PM
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Removed the intake manifold and the EGR valve port was almost completely filled with carbon. I followed the Service Bulletin to remove the carbon and cleaned thoroughly. Reassembled and still runs great to 3500 rpm, then starts to choke, as if it's not getting enough fuel. I'm going to check the fuel filter next.

Anyone have any pictures of which timing mark on the harmonic balancer I use for TDC?
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:23 PM
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Okay...all done and working fine. I did the Service Bulletin and the EGR port was 98% clogged. Removed and cleaned the EGR valve too. The valve was sticking so with a bit of carb cleaner and a little elbow grease, the valve is now working very smoothly.

But the REAL fix to the RPM thing is....wait for it....the connector to the oil pump was not fully seated. Looked like it was...but I pressed the connector down and it snapped into the locked position. I don't remember removing or even playing with the connector so I don't know why it wasn't fully seated.

But I have to say, cleaning the EGR port really seems to have made the car very happy because it's running GREAT! Pulls very strongly.

Hope this information helps someone out there. I'll be doing a CV joint Boot replacement for both sides very soon and will let you know how that goes. Brakes after that.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:23 PM
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Re: Intake Manifold Torque Specs?

Originally Posted by I Grok NSX View Post
Okay...all done and working fine. I did the Service Bulletin and the EGR port was 98% clogged. Removed and cleaned the EGR valve too. The valve was sticking so with a bit of carb cleaner and a little elbow grease, the valve is now working very smoothly.

But the REAL fix to the RPM thing is....wait for it....the connector to the oil pump was not fully seated. Looked like it was...but I pressed the connector down and it snapped into the locked position. I don't remember removing or even playing with the connector so I don't know why it wasn't fully seated.

But I have to say, cleaning the EGR port really seems to have made the car very happy because it's running GREAT! Pulls very strongly.

Hope this information helps someone out there. I'll be doing a CV joint Boot replacement for both sides very soon and will let you know how that goes. Brakes after that.
Glad to hear it all worked out.
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