New mounts

Nam1911a1

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So I ordered all new motor and tranny mounts from rock auto. Got the anchor mounts. They seem pretty decent and hard rubber.

The originals have 211k miles on them and are shot. The tranny mount feels like a sponge and has cracks. I don't know where the rubber inside went but it's gone. The front mount is soft as a silicon boob. And the motor mount on timing belt side is worn out.

The chatter and shaking in reverse is terrible unless I feather the clutch and keep RPMs above 2k. Startup shakes the car.

Anyways I got some Masterseal NP1 polyurethane from work and went to town on the mounts. The front mount is duct taped a and fully filled. The other mounts still need the other side filled. These will be going in next weekend
 

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Nam1911a1

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No i haven't put them in yet. Haven't had the time and the weather has been super crappy. Last week was in the single digits. That polyurethane took weeks to cure. I still have one void left to fill. The weather was so cold and I had to build a small heat box to cure the mounts. The fumes in the basement were not good.

Hopefully next weeks weather will be nicer to where I can get to the front and two side mounts.
 

Nam1911a1

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Update. I only had an hour after work today to get some work done so I started on the two easiest mounts. The driver side engine mount and the front engine mount.

WOW what the hell man. After installed the new driver side mount I realized the old mount was so worn out that the engine was sagging a whole 1' low. The new mount pulled it up to where it was supposed to be. In almost exactly an hour I got the two done. This weekend I plan on tackling the passenger side transmission mount. The rear mount will have to wait until I put in a new clutch as its impossible to get to as is.

The difference is crazy. The car used to shake on startup and during gear shifts due to the sloppy mounts. The new mounts REALLY make the car feel much more firm and connected. On startup there is no more shake and the gear shifts are a lot more firm and smooth. Wheel hop is lessened also.

I don't know how much a difference the filled front mount is doing because I have nothing but old worn out mounts to compare to but I really like the new feel.
 

Rusty Accord

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So I ordered all new motor and tranny mounts from rock auto. Got the anchor mounts. They seem pretty decent and hard rubber.

Anyways I got some Masterseal NP1 polyurethane from work and went to town on the mounts. The front mount is duct taped a and fully filled. The other mounts still need the other side filled. These will be going in next weekend

So, let me get this straight. You bought new mounts, but filled them with polyurethane to basically make a solid rubber mount? Were the areas that you filled cavities (open spaces in the mount)? Just trying to get an idea of why you did that is all. Thanks for any info you can provide.
 

604ACCORD

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So, let me get this straight. You bought new mounts, but filled them with polyurethane to basically make a solid rubber mount? Were the areas that you filled cavities (open spaces in the mount)? Just trying to get an idea of why you did that is all. Thanks for any info you can provide.

I did it on my old car well worth the 13 bucks or so for the urethane. As he states less wheel hop as it keeps the engine from moving, less shaking on start up and it should give the mounts a better life span. You will probably notice a little more vibration at idle though.
 

Rusty Accord

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I did it on my old car well worth the 13 bucks or so for the urethane. As he states less wheel hop as it keeps the engine from moving, less shaking on start up and it should give the mounts a better life span. You will probably notice a little more vibration at idle though.

Ok, I was just curious. I haven't noticed any excessive vibration or wheel hop, but then I do get quite a bit of wheel spin in 1st and 2nd (depending on whether I shift soon or late, or just stay in it) with my Dunlop DZ102's in a 205-55-15 size. But then I'd rather spin the tires than break parts. Hell, the car already has 232+k miles on it.;)
I thought it was more of a case of him breaking mounts or something like that. Thanks for the explaination.
 

Connie

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I need to replace my rear engine mount and have no idea on how to do it

V6 or I4? This is for V6.

The rear mount is pretty straightforward, undo the top nut and take out the 3 bolts, lift the engine with a cherry picker (it will rotate forwards just enough on the remaining mounts to remove it when you lift up on it; I used a strap through the intake manifold on the passenger side rear of the engine). Slide the new one in, lower the bracket over the stud and bolt it down. Don't forget to reconnect the vacuum line.

I have to do either the front or rear hydraulic mount every 75000km or so. Probably because I drive like a ****.
 

Nam1911a1

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The poly I used to fill wasnt super stiff. It still has a little give. Which I'm fine with. I figured I got a bunch of free polyurethane from a past job and might as well use it.

There isn't any added vibration at idle. But the dang difference is nice.

Before the new mounts I had a one finger difference in wheel gap from front driver to front passenger. After a new mount raised the driver side motor up and inch the gaps are even know. Who knew a sloppy mount would affect the suspension so much.
 
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