H22 Swap

bukloy

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Yea man. Any Other question shoot me a pm. I went into this h22 business practically blind and had a lot of good help from the people from this site and others. I jus wanna shae the knowledge with others. Help get the h22 accord community growing hehe
 

crawler89

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Hi, there, by far the best thead I have found for my swap, I don't think I have any questions, Only comments at this time. I too am a Honda tech so I am looking for answers to my initial questions for wiring, which was answered thank you. For the OBD2 set up I was told by One of my friends also business partner about fuel injector pin numbers VS the OBD2 P13, so the location in the F23A1 harness will be moved, or I guess I do have a question, is that the purpose of the A-B harness adapter?

So I have a 98 EX-L sedan, I was just looking around on good old CL for ways to make money and found some kid looking to get a few bucks for a fam car and got a H22A JDM with LSD, harness, ECU, P/S, A/C, ALT, Dizzy, manifolds, injectors, intermediate shaft, rear mount and D bracket, front mount. I will attemp to fab my own drivers mount. pretty much the entire swap for 700 buck, 2.5hrs of driving in my truck wich was about 40 bucks in gas, She is a beast, that is on a different forum. So I am off to build. I will take pics, note progress, due to this sticky should I not produce a build thread of my own? Or shall I with new pics that could be similar to the ones lost?

Thanks to all questions and inputs on this. I'm going all stock, no mods, maybe bolt ons, I live in California :-( I have a spare harness just in case I go back.
 

JediYuhdigg

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After my h22a swap, I've been throwing a code 12 for the EGR. I've just been lazy to look into how to fix it. I briefly read something about a block plate to fix the check engine light. Suggestions?
 

bukloy

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After my h22a swap, I've been throwing a code 12 for the EGR. I've just been lazy to look into how to fix it. I briefly read something about a block plate to fix the check engine light. Suggestions?

the block off plate will fix the egr problem, but you will probably need to tune out the egr code from the ecu using crome or other type of program so the ecu will not look for egr. you must be using the p13 ecu with looks for all that emissions crap. try a p28 or p72 and tune. then you should be set.... hopefully
 

JediYuhdigg

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the block off plate will fix the egr problem, but you will probably need to tune out the egr code from the ecu using crome or other type of program so the ecu will not look for egr. you must be using the p13 ecu with looks for all that emissions crap. try a p28 or p72 and tune. then you should be set.... hopefully

Yeah, thats what I figured. Thanks!
 

CRC'sCG3

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Wow alotta good info here! Quick question what's the main difference between the euro R and jdm prelude S spec engine? I'm considering doing a swap but still kind of a noob.  seems they have similar numbers and the jdm Prelude S spec seems like an easier swap. So is there any real advantage in swapping in a euro R over an S spec?
 

99CcordMTF23

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Wow alotta good info here! Quick question what's the main difference between the euro R and jdm prelude S spec engine? I'm considering doing a swap but still kind of a noob.  seems they have similar numbers and the jdm Prelude S spec seems like an easier swap. So is there any real advantage in swapping in a euro R over an S spec?

The euroR is an H23 Vtec, should have more torque, and i believe it would be "OBD2" style with the crank and tdc sonsors in the oil pump housing (Can anyone confirm or deny this?) And the JDM typeS has the "OBD1" style pump with no sensors (they are in the distributor, which should be internal coil), and more aggressive cams. The H23 ER has a the drivers engine mount that will bolt into the 6ga no problem, the TypeS will need the engine mount modified slightly. Also, the intake manifolds are different. But i cannot confirm in what way, but they are interchangable.
 

2002CG3coupe

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The euroR is an H23 Vtec, should have more torque, and i believe it would be "OBD2" style with the crank and tdc sonsors in the oil pump housing (Can anyone confirm or deny this?) And the JDM typeS has the "OBD1" style pump with no sensors (they are in the distributor, which should be internal coil), and more aggressive cams. The H23 ER has a the drivers engine mount that will bolt into the 6ga no problem, the TypeS will need the engine mount modified slightly. Also, the intake manifolds are different. But i cannot confirm in what way, but they are interchangable.

Wow alotta good info here! Quick question what's the main difference between the euro R and jdm prelude S spec engine? I'm considering doing a swap but still kind of a noob.  seems they have similar numbers and the jdm Prelude S spec seems like an easier swap. So is there any real advantage in swapping in a euro R over an S spec?

They are the same motor (the Euro-R and Type-S) with the same specs only difference is their intake manifold. The Euro-R intake manifold is slight

Euro-R is an 2.2 engine not 2.3, 2.3 vtec h motors only came in japan's Accord Wagon SiR (CH9 & CL2) in theory yes same motor but a .1 larger displacement

As far as ckp and tdc it is located in both motor's dizzy obd1 or obd2
Yes the cams are aggressive as well the springs, retainers, and valves slightly, if you were to swap Euro-R/Type-S cams in a regular h22 head, make sure the cylinder head is either 00 and up or has PDE stamp on it.....reason is that the head is built similar to the Euro-R/Type-S

As far bolting up to the bay can't recall which motor bolts up with no fabrication. I take his word on it, I know H23 vtec bolts right up to and very little to no wiring

The intake manifolds are different Type-S has the same IM as the the regular H22 and the Euro-R has different look ( and a slightly longer runner more of a slope, if I describe it correctly) which would make it difficult to fit in a usdm 6GA engine bay

So there really is no advantage between both motor IMO, except you might run into the issue of fitment if you choose the Euro-R due to the IM. Personally I'd go H23 vtec but I leave the Google search function to answer that for you
 

FunnyVictor86

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They are the same motor (the Euro-R and Type-S) with the same specs only difference is their intake manifold. The Euro-R intake manifold is slight

Euro-R is an 2.2 engine not 2.3, 2.3 vtec h motors only came in japan's Accord Wagon SiR (CH9 & CL2) in theory yes same motor but a .1 larger displacement

As far as ckp and tdc it is located in both motor's dizzy obd1 or obd2
Yes the cams are aggressive as well the springs, retainers, and valves slightly, if you were to swap Euro-R/Type-S cams in a regular h22 head, make sure the cylinder head is either 00 and up or has PDE stamp on it.....reason is that the head is built similar to the Euro-R/Type-S

As far bolting up to the bay can't recall which motor bolts up with no fabrication. I take his word on it, I know H23 vtec bolts right up to and very little to no wiring

The intake manifolds are different Type-S has the same IM as the the regular H22 and the Euro-R has different look ( and a slightly longer runner more of a slope, if I describe it correctly) which would make it difficult to fit in a usdm 6GA engine bay

So there really is no advantage between both motor IMO, except you might run into the issue of fitment if you choose the Euro-R due to the IM. Personally I'd go H23 vtec but I leave the Google search function to answer that for you

Euro-R manifold does not cause any fitment problems. Physically dropping the Euro-R motor in a 6GA is the same as any other H series motor. I believe that it's the F20B that drops in without the modification of the driver side mount but I could be wrong. Driver side mount and P/S need small amount of fabrication to work. There is little re-wiring but even so it was somewhat a pain in the *** with the lack of pin-out diagrams/schematics. This is especially true when your trying to use the OEM ECU and remain OBD2.
 
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