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  #111  
Old 11-19-2017, 09:14 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=datechboss101;1100469]
Originally Posted by T.$.Racing View Post
I looked at rockauto, and they don't sell the front 4 lug nut wheel bearings at all. The only ones that I found were Autozone's Duralast wheel bearings with hub assembly. Where else should I try? I plan on not going to the mech to get them pressed in.

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I have to call BS on that one. Yes, they don't sell a 4 lug hub (well actually they do seperately, but I wouldn't buy it), but then I'd rather keep the genuine Honda hub. But the bearings are available. Part# 510050 @25.79 each for Timken. I could have them here by Friday. They're also the same bearing as V6 cars use. I just put them into my own car last month.
I wouldn't use anything from the Zone, unless you plan on replacing them in a year. I only say that, as they sell cheap Chinese parts. And while the part might have a "life time warranty", it doesn't cover labor, and you only get 1 replacement. After that 1, you're buying the next 1.
So IF you want it by Thanksgiving, you need to order it now, or should have ordered it last week.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #112  
Old 11-19-2017, 09:41 PM
datechboss101 datechboss101 is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=Rusty Accord;1100470]
Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post

I have to call BS on that one. Yes, they don't sell a 4 lug hub (well actually they do seperately, but I wouldn't buy it), but then I'd rather keep the genuine Honda hub. But the bearings are available. Part# 510050 @25.79 each for Timken. I could have them here by Friday. They're also the same bearing as V6 cars use. I just put them into my own car last month.
I wouldn't use anything from the Zone, unless you plan on replacing them in a year. I only say that, as they sell cheap Chinese parts. And while the part might have a "life time warranty", it doesn't cover labor, and you only get 1 replacement. After that 1, you're buying the next 1.
So IF you want it by Thanksgiving, you need to order it now, or should have ordered it last week.
I did my research though. I went to multiple reputable sites (RA, 1A, A.A.P., NAPA, etc.).
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Lucky- 1999 Honda Accord LX 2.3L 4AT SSM- 111k miles
Pato- 2016 Nissan Rogue SL 2.5L CVT ABM- 40k miles
Lelu 2.0- 2017 Acura MDX Tech 3.5L 9AT BCP- 1500 miles
Lelu 1.0- 2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L w/ Navi & RES 3.5L 5AT SGM- traded on 12/24/15 @ 151k miles
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  #113  
Old 11-19-2017, 09:49 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=T.$.Racing;1100462]
Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post

The cost of everything would be a lot more reasonable if you learn to turn a wrench and start working on the thing yourself. Idk, maybe its me, but it seems weird to talk about "reasonable" cost in regards to the correct fluids for your car, but you bring a 20 year old vehicle in for service at the stealership?

If you plan on putting even 250k on your 6G it would greatly behoove you to start doing any/all work on the thing yourself otherwise you and your pops are going to rack up into the 5 digits maintaining the thing over that duration. You'll save money, know its done right, and it feels a hell of a lot more rewarding getting back into your car and driving it after doing a job on it yourself.
I hear ya. I try to stay away from the dealership if I can. I'll shop around for parts and fluids though, but then I've been doing that most of my life.

My son is a multiple Honda owner (he has 2 Civics and his wife has a Pilot), and he's been doing his own repair work in my garage for years. He also knows that if he needs help, I'm there to offer it up. But for the most part he's the one doing the work. For the first 2 years he owned his 98 Civic, he was driving over 300 miles a week, between work and college. He racked up some miles, and replaced some parts. There was a time I wasn't around and he needed a clutch replaced, so he talked to a couple of local shops, and found someone who worked on them, as he couldn't afford to go to the dealer for repair work. It got replaced, and he kept driving it. I should also mention, he was/is paying for his own cars, with his own money. I think this is his main reason for owning and driving a Honda.

Him and a friend of mine also got me to start shopping for stuff on e-bay. But, you need to know what you want before you get there. I actually browse on Rock Auto first (gets me parts numbers and a rough price), then I go to e-bay and see if they have it there, and can I get a better price for the same quality.
I really can't see going to the dealer for much of anything, other than getting a 2nd key programed for my 99 Accord. I did that with my wife's Accord shortly after we got it too. It wasn't because 1 of us might loose a key, but rather I had my own copy for if I needed to move her car, or take her car, or work on her car. It just made sense to have it done (cost 70 bucks), so I don't have to ask/bug her for her key. Plus it was nice on road trips, where we both had a key for the car. Yes, we got some DW-1 ATF for it at the dealer, but then they should have it in stock. It costs the same as Honda MTF too. But other than that, I get my parts elsewhere.
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #114  
Old 11-19-2017, 09:53 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=datechboss101;1100471]
Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post

I did my research though. I went to multiple reputable sites (RA, 1A, A.A.P., NAPA, etc.).
I was just saying above, Rock Auto does have them in stock. I even gave you the part number (510050) and the price per bearing (25.79 each).
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #115  
Old 11-20-2017, 03:43 PM
T.$.Racing T.$.Racing is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=datechboss101;1100469]
Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post
I looked at rockauto, and they don't sell the front 4 lug nut wheel bearings at all. The only ones that I found were Autozone's Duralast wheel bearings with hub assembly. Where else should I try? I plan on not going to the mech to get them pressed in.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Because you're looking up the wrong thing. The lugs has nothing to do with a wheel bearing, you are trying to look up HUB ASSEMBLIES.

I just told you where to order them from. Hondapartsnow.com

I was a Commercial Manager at Autozone for 4 years. All the parts stores generally use the same chinese factory crap as their "house brand", and then they all sell an "upgraded" brand, Autozone's is usually Timken for bearings and hubs, Advanced is Moog.

My O.E. front wheels bearings have lasted 217k miles, when I do replace them I will spend the $70 ea. and replace them with O.E. bearings. I have enough projects in my garage and driveway without having to worry about saving $40ea. on an aftermarket bearing that craps the bed in a year or two.

FWIW a lifetime warranty at Autozone is a lifetime warranty. Not that I use, or would recommend many of their parts, but I have used most of what they carry personally, and still do for some small side jobs (mostly brakes). The lifetime warranty does not end the first time you swap the part. I have swapped brake pads 4-5 times on my parent's element that I originally bought the pads for in '07.

That being said, things to stay away from at Autozone: anything Duralast suspension, any of their duralast master or slave cylinders, cv axles, wheel bearings, caps/rotors/points/etc, and any of the Duralast GOLD (the brand new) line of alternators or starters. The rebuilt ones are rebuilt in the U.S. or Mexico, the brand new crap is new from China. The turnover rate in both the front of the store (D.I.Y) and for commercial was always a hell of a lot lower on the remanufactured stuff than the brand new stuff believe it or not.
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  #116  
Old 11-20-2017, 04:39 PM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=T.$.Racing;1100488]
Originally Posted by datechboss101 View Post

Because you're looking up the wrong thing. The lugs has nothing to do with a wheel bearing, you are trying to look up HUB ASSEMBLIES.

I just told you where to order them from. Hondapartsnow.com

I was a Commercial Manager at Autozone for 4 years. All the parts stores generally use the same chinese factory crap as their "house brand", and then they all sell an "upgraded" brand, Autozone's is usually Timken for bearings and hubs, Advanced is Moog.

My O.E. front wheels bearings have lasted 217k miles, when I do replace them I will spend the $70 ea. and replace them with O.E. bearings. I have enough projects in my garage and driveway without having to worry about saving $40ea. on an aftermarket bearing that craps the bed in a year or two.

FWIW a lifetime warranty at Autozone is a lifetime warranty. Not that I use, or would recommend many of their parts, but I have used most of what they carry personally, and still do for some small side jobs (mostly brakes). The lifetime warranty does not end the first time you swap the part. I have swapped brake pads 4-5 times on my parent's element that I originally bought the pads for in '07.

That being said, things to stay away from at Autozone: anything Duralast suspension, any of their duralast master or slave cylinders, cv axles, wheel bearings, caps/rotors/points/etc, and any of the Duralast GOLD (the brand new) line of alternators or starters. The rebuilt ones are rebuilt in the U.S. or Mexico, the brand new crap is new from China. The turnover rate in both the front of the store (D.I.Y) and for commercial was always a hell of a lot lower on the remanufactured stuff than the brand new stuff believe it or not.
Well last month I replaced my hub bearings at 233K. They were original NTN bearings, made in Japan (as was the rest of the car). The Timken bearings I got from Rock Auto were also NTN bearings, but in a Timken box. Didn't bother me a bit, as the ones I removed were making a lot of noise. I replaced the original ball joints at that time (no snap rings on the ones I removed), so I know they went 233K too. To me, using quality parts, even if they aren't from a Honda dealer is what I look for.

But yes, I believe the OP was looking up the wrong parts on the sites he visited.

But, I didn't know about the Zone basically having 3 levels of parts. Mostly I just go in there for oil, filters, and cleaning supplies. And now that my CarQuest has become Advanced, I might be looking online even more, unless I still need it the same day.

However, some genuine Honda parts are just plain over priced and can fail too. My son's 08 Civic Si had a lug nut and stud failure last week. I call it a failure, as the stud had galled and took out the lug nut (he was putting on his winter tires). The Honda dealer wanted 8.95 for the stud, and 10 bucks for the lug nut, and BOTH had to be ordered, even though the stud for a Civic is used from 1980 thru 2017 with no changes to it. He went to O'Reilly's and got both a stud (Dorman) and lug nut for 5 bucks out the door, and they had it in stock. I know that since he's had the car (almost 2 years now) that he's never used an impact wrench on the lug nuts, as both sets of rims are aluminum (genuine Honda rims).
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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  #117  
Old 11-20-2017, 06:03 PM
T.$.Racing T.$.Racing is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=Rusty Accord;1100492]
Originally Posted by T.$.Racing View Post
Well last month I replaced my hub bearings at 233K. They were original NTN bearings, made in Japan (as was the rest of the car). The Timken bearings I got from Rock Auto were also NTN bearings, but in a Timken box. Didn't bother me a bit, as the ones I removed were making a lot of noise. I replaced the original ball joints at that time (no snap rings on the ones I removed), so I know they went 233K too. To me, using quality parts, even if they aren't from a Honda dealer is what I look for.

But yes, I believe the OP was looking up the wrong parts on the sites he visited.

But, I didn't know about the Zone basically having 3 levels of parts. Mostly I just go in there for oil, filters, and cleaning supplies. And now that my CarQuest has become Advanced, I might be looking online even more, unless I still need it the same day.

However, some genuine Honda parts are just plain over priced and can fail too. My son's 08 Civic Si had a lug nut and stud failure last week. I call it a failure, as the stud had galled and took out the lug nut (he was putting on his winter tires). The Honda dealer wanted 8.95 for the stud, and 10 bucks for the lug nut, and BOTH had to be ordered, even though the stud for a Civic is used from 1980 thru 2017 with no changes to it. He went to O'Reilly's and got both a stud (Dorman) and lug nut for 5 bucks out the door, and they had it in stock. I know that since he's had the car (almost 2 years now) that he's never used an impact wrench on the lug nuts, as both sets of rims are aluminum (genuine Honda rims).
My only gripe with Timken is it is a crap shoot on what brand/country of origin you're getting. We didn't sell many Timken bearings, but a ton of hub assemblies to shops in the area (a lot of fleet vehicles, especially GM trucks/suvs/vans eat front hubs up) and the Timken hubs were from anywhere from the U.S. , to Korea, Japan, China, or Mexico. Same thing with Moog suspension parts now it seems. Some pieces are still U.S. made and some of their ball joints and sway bar links are Chinese now. That being said I've used a Korean Timken hub on the rear of a 92 Civic EX I had and later sold to a friend. That hub last 40-50k miles till he finally sold the car, and never had a problem. I've also used a Chinese duralast hub on a 97 Cavalier and that also lasted 30-40k miles till the trans crapped out and the car was junked. Sometimes with the parts store brand it really is luck of the draw lol, there is so much variance between batches and from unit to unit, unfortunately.

The Zone offers many different levels depending on what it is. I haven't worked there since 2015, but they're up to like 5 or 6 different levels/kinds of brake pads now lol. 3 different levels of rotors, 3 different levels of ignition parts, and 2 levels for most other things.

Valucraft, duralast, and duralast gold are the house brand levels for most things there.

I used to LOVE when we'd re-set the oil wall and oils would go on clearance. I still have over 10 cases of Royal Purple 5 gallon jugs in 5w30 I purchased for $15 a case of (3) 5 quart jugs. Bought a ton of Castrol Synblend quarts for $1 a piece, Mobil 5000 quarts for a $1 a piece..... Moral of the story is periodically check the oil rack at the Zone and see if anything went on clearance. It usually resets once a year and all the stuff getting phased out goes on clearance.

Last edited by T.$.Racing; 11-20-2017 at 06:28 PM.
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  #118  
Old Yesterday, 03:37 AM
Rusty Accord Rusty Accord is offline
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Re: Million mile club

[quote=T.$.Racing;1100496]
Originally Posted by Rusty Accord View Post

My only gripe with Timken is it is a crap shoot on what brand/country of origin you're getting. We didn't sell many Timken bearings, but a ton of hub assemblies to shops in the area (a lot of fleet vehicles, especially GM trucks/suvs/vans eat front hubs up) and the Timken hubs were from anywhere from the U.S. , to Korea, Japan, China, or Mexico. Same thing with Moog suspension parts now it seems. Some pieces are still U.S. made and some of their ball joints and sway bar links are Chinese now. That being said I've used a Korean Timken hub on the rear of a 92 Civic EX I had and later sold to a friend. That hub last 40-50k miles till he finally sold the car, and never had a problem. I've also used a Chinese duralast hub on a 97 Cavalier and that also lasted 30-40k miles till the trans crapped out and the car was junked. Sometimes with the parts store brand it really is luck of the draw lol, there is so much variance between batches and from unit to unit, unfortunately.

The Zone offers many different levels depending on what it is. I haven't worked there since 2015, but they're up to like 5 or 6 different levels/kinds of brake pads now lol. 3 different levels of rotors, 3 different levels of ignition parts, and 2 levels for most other things.

Valucraft, duralast, and duralast gold are the house brand levels for most things there.

I used to LOVE when we'd re-set the oil wall and oils would go on clearance. I still have over 10 cases of Royal Purple 5 gallon jugs in 5w30 I purchased for $15 a case of (3) 5 quart jugs. Bought a ton of Castrol Synblend quarts for $1 a piece, Mobil 5000 quarts for a $1 a piece..... Moral of the story is periodically check the oil rack at the Zone and see if anything went on clearance. It usually resets once a year and all the stuff getting phased out goes on clearance.
Yeah, I hear ya on country of origin. A couple of the MOOG links I installed were made in Mexico. My son just installed a set of Timken rear hubs that were made in China (said so on the box) for his 08 Civic. The OE parts went 78K, but they were rumbling. With Allied Signal buying up all the different parts suppliers and consolidating parts it's becoming more and more of a crap shoot. I've been watching this sort of thing happen for the last 15 to 20 years, and it's not getting any better. Bosch spark plugs are another one, they used to be made in Germany, now it's Brazil, Mexico, Russia, India, and even Turkey. :O Quality has gone down hill too. I've even got a new canister type fuel filter on my wall of shame. It's there because you can't blow thru it, let alone pump fuel thru it. That means even new parts can junk right out of the package. I've gotten to the point of not throwing away old parts, until I know the new one(s) fit, and work correctly (unless it was broken). Sometimes an old part can be rebuilt, and give good results and more years of service. I've learned that from working on my 50+ year old VW. Most of those old German parts were built to last with a little maintenance.
But I don't normally go to the Zone or any of the other parts places too much any more. I mean unless it's needed right now, I can wait for a part to be shipped. I do have a winter beater Geo Prizm I can use, not to mention my Chevy truck, or my wife's car.
This year alone, my Accord got a bunch of parts thrown at it, like a new fuel tank (replaced the original rusty one), complete exhaust system from the manifold back, basically a complete front end rebuild (including new rotors), and a new set of winter tires. About the only real thing I need to do, is change the MTF in it, as I don't know how long it's been in there. I have been keeping an eye on the brake lines though, as I didn't do the rears last spring. Not to mention some of the coating on them is missing in places, and I did my wife's 2000 Accord 2 springs ago (2015).
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Bob 1997 Accord LX sedan w/ 5 speed F22b2 235K miles currently for sale
1999 Accord LX sedan w/ 5speed F23A1 LEV 232K miles
Sue's 2000 Accord LX sedan AT F23A1 LEV 235K miles
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