New from NJ

2kslowaccord · Feb 24, 2016

Hey everybody

Recently I was gifted a 250k 2000 LX F23a4 with a bad auto trans and decent body. So I did what any reasonable car junky would do and bought 2000 accord that had some front end accident damage on craigslist. The craigslist accord is a DX F23a5 non vtec with 93k 5 speed from an old lady (very clean / no rust).

I currently own a 2004 accord ex k24a4 with 210k and will be selling.

The site has been a wealth of info.

I am looking forward to doing the following:
Coilovers
Swaybars
Bushings
Power Steering Delete
Steering Quickener
Upgraded Clutch
Underdrive Pulley
Mild Turbo 8-10psi
Plasti-dip
5 Lug Conversion
Rear Disc Conversion
Wheels

I am grown with family and full time job with full time debt so dont expect a quick build.
Keeper

Donor

Repair

RedRyder · Feb 24, 2016

Welcome to the site, congrats on getting the 6GA together. Especially if you were working in the cold. I see plasti-dip on the list...are you planning to plasti-dip the car?

2kslowaccord · Feb 24, 2016

Yup, I was a Technician and evetually service manager at various dealers. Big on DIY. I have the tools and I enjoy it.

2kslowaccord · Feb 24, 2016

And, yes it was during the storm we recently had. 2ft of snow

604ACCORD · Feb 24, 2016

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I loooooooooooooove it!! Good work should be looking good when your done. Nice 7th gen too!

james'99 · Feb 24, 2016

Welcome! The nice thing about the DX is that since you are going the route you are going, you don't need to delete the A/C! It's already gone!

Are you gonna swap on a VTEC head when you go turbo?

2kslowaccord · Feb 25, 2016

Thanks, guys. It actually came with AC, which is good because its my daily and I drive 60 miles minimum. So AC is a keeper.

I havent really given thought to swapping a vtec head. Not sure how much work is involve in regards to wiring but then there is the imobilizer :shakehead:

Also with the planned turbo build, would it really become that much more of a benefit? I believe to really take advantage of the vtec head I would best swap out to the higher compression pistons. At that point I might as well just do a complete engine swap. Correct me if I wrong.

But most important to me is the handling, suspension, chassis stiffness. After getting the car dipped, I will start on handling.

I am a big believer that going fast is cool but on a daily driver you will enjoy a good handling car so much more. Anyway how often do you get to go WOT safely.

2kslowaccord · Feb 25, 2016

On my 7th gen I had full coilovers, upgraded swaybars, camber kit, bushings, EBS pads and rotors. In terms of performance it was, intake, muffler delete, 10.5lb flywheel, true short shifter diy (not just a shorter stalk).

You will always drive faster if your car handles better. I found myself pushing the limits of my 7th gen more than I ever had on some of my previous more aggressively modified car do to the confidence in my car holding the road.

james'99 · Feb 25, 2016

2kslowaccord said:
Thanks, guys. It actually came with AC, which is good because its my daily and I drive 60 miles minimum. So AC is a keeper.

I havent really given thought to swapping a vtec head. Not sure how much work is involve in regards to wiring but then there is the imobilizer

Also with the planned turbo build, would it really become that much more of a benefit? I believe to really take advantage of the vtec head I would best swap out to the higher compression pistons. At that point I might as well just do a complete engine swap. Correct me if I wrong.

But most important to me is the handling, suspension, chassis stiffness. After getting the car dipped, I will start on handling.

I am a big believer that going fast is cool but on a daily driver you will enjoy a good handling car so much more. Anyway how often do you get to go WOT safely.

The work involved won't be too bad. You have everything you need except a viable ECU I think. So yes, while you will need to figure out the immobilizer part, it is not too much of a hurdle and those of us here should be able to help you out. Realistically, you only should need to run three wires which you can get the pigtails for off your other car or just swap over the harness. The rest is bolt on from there and you already have the head!

2kslowaccord · Feb 29, 2016

Interesting, I didnt think of it that way. I was under the impression that ULEV head was different than the standard Vtec head.

I have access to a honda dealer which could help with the immobilizer.

The Harness of the donor is still intact. I would prefer to not have to swap out the entire harness.

I have been wrestling with either AEM FIC or AEM Standalone ECU. Would it simplify it if I just got the standalone ecu or not so much. The hesitation is cost $400 vs $1200. I know I could get away with a mild turbo build using the fic, but running this course, if it is an advantage I may go with the standalone.

Thanks for the info and let me know what you think.

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