Howdy from Ct.

Connie

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My frame rail was a bit tweaked in front of the bumper support on the side that got hit, too. Ontario Ministry inspection guy didn't care about it "as long as it isn't into the wheel well"....he decided not to brand it even while the back bumper was hanging on by one clip on the driver's side.

I said "what do I have to do to make it legal again?"

He said "you're good to go, but id try and fix the bumper on it soon"

I drove it home like that; insurance paid me $5k and got the car back from them for $800.

I guess sometimes you get lucky, lol.
 

pete c

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Not sure what the insurance co. paid the kid or what he had to give to get it back, but it really puzzles me that he didn't spend the 500 bucks to get it back on the road, considering what he put into it. It was kind of interesting that Kevin, the body shop guy specified getting it back to an acceptable condition rather than an "insurance job". I suspect that involves cutting out and replacing entire sections which I'm certain is damn expensive.


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Rusty Accord

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Good news. I talked to the body shop guy. Showed him a pic. He says he can throw it on the rack and stretch it back into place. Says it won't be an "insurance job" meaning indistinguishable from new, but it'll be plenty good enough to get it through inspection. He guesstimated 350-400 bucks. I feel much better now. So instead of a very nice low mile coupe for 1200 bucks, I got a very nice low mile coupe for 1600. I'll take that anyday. I suspect I could sell it afterward for something approaching 3 grand. Not that I will.
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Isn't it amazing how much cheaper places are when you're NOT dealing with an insurance company?
I know my son fixed his 98 Civic on the insurance companies dime, as they totaled out the car (worth 2500-400 to buy it back), and we used 1900 of it. Yes, we had to replace the front core support (insurance co. requirement to get a clean title and full coverage again), and we needed to un-twist the right front frame rail (it was rolled under). That last one took a bit of creativity to fix, but we did it while it was snowing. We ended up re-painting the entire car too with their money (DIY). When a deer ran into him a year later, he replaced the drivers door and front fender, and repainted those parts and the hood too, as it had "horn dents" in it. The insurance company didn't give him as much the 2nd time they totaled it (only 1400), but it was just enough to fix it (with clean title and full coverage again).
 

pete c

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Well, I still haven't gotten this thing to the body shop and now I have a new issue. I got in it to move/run it for a bit. When I attempted to push the clutch in I was met with a great deal of resistance. So much that I had to push with all I had to get the clutch switch to make to allow me to start it. It did start and is behaving as if the clutch is always disengaged. I can put it in to gear with the engine running.

A few months ago I started it and the clutch pedal hung up for a moment. It returned to normal with another tap on it. I think I nave have a frozen slave/master cylinder. The slave looks easy enough to replace. It the master looks like a PITA.

Any help with diagnosis would be appreciated.


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Rusty Accord

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I'd try and bleed the slave cylinder first, as you might have a pocket of air in the system. If that doesn't work, then I'd unbolt the slave from the trans, open the bleed screw and see if you can manually move the plunger back inside it. If it won't go, it's rusted in place, and replacement time.

If you think you have a clutch master cylinder (CMC) problem, look up under the dash (following the clutch pedal rod) and look with a flash light to see if you can see any fluid leaking out, or any wet spots around it.
On my 5th gen Accord, I was having an issue of a low pedal with it, and I put a light up there and saw fluid. That told me it was a CMC problem, but I also put a slave cylinder on it too, as I didn't know if the bleed screw would open or snap off. Keep in mind Honda changed the line end style on the CMC between the 5th gen and the 6th gen (from screw fittings to a snap and pin set up). If you change the CMC, You might need to get the fitting from Honda, or re-use your old one, as some come with the parts for the snap fitting and some don't. I think it was a cost saving deal, but I could be wrong.

I goth my 5th gen clutch hydraulic parts from Rock Auto. I used the LUK brand, as I know they're a good product (a division of FAG bearings). They've been in place for 18 months now. I think I paid 50 bucks for the both of them.
I hope this helps.
 
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