98 Coupe V6

Frannyagui

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Hey guys I'm new to the thread and couldn't think of anywhere else to go for the problem I'm having.
I drive a 98 Accord Coupe V6 with 215,449 original miles and a rebuilt transmission about 14,000 miles ago.
Around 2,000 miles ago I started having a problem where my car will shut off unexpectedly. Starting it back up was quite simple and not hesistant at all. Now it's progressed to where I go to crank it in the morning and about 5-10 minutes into my drive it seems as if my transmission disengages and no matter what gear you drop it in it'll start slowing down and won't go no where. Sometimes when you floor it it'll jerk like it wants to go but keeps slowing down. Every now and then it'll back fire and spit when you give it gas as it's slowing down. After it dies I smell a strong scent of gas and the car won't crank until 2 minutes or so of just sitting there cut off. After that happens I'm ok for the rest of the day. Ignition coil, rotor button, and cap have been replaced due to oil leakage from the distributor. Only codes are a P0401 I believe, and it's a catalyst system below threshold. Any help here is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

Chrisout

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Mine was doing that. There was a recall for the electrical part of the ignition switch which is the harness part of the switch not the switch it's self. Dealer did it for free, TWICE in 7 years!
 

Varnell

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While the car is running wiggle the key around in the ignition to see if it shuts off.
 

Frannyagui

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I've replaced the harness already. I know it's not that. When I had problems with the harness I wouldn't have any power whatsoever in the car and with a snap of a finger the fans and dash lights would come on normally. It did quit on me like twice going down the road but I knew what the problem was so it wasn't like I was stranded. I eventually got a new harness from someone I know who works at a Honda dealer.
I know when an engine is stone cold everything runs at a closed loop, but it isn't until I get my engine good and warmed up after 5-10 minutes of driving that it'll do it. And when it acts up there's nothing I can do to stop it. I've been meaning to do a fuel pressure test but I'm having a bit of trouble with trying to figure out how to connect the gauge and locate the vacuum line on the regulator. Funny thing is whenever it cranks back up from having it's fit I can drive it like a race car all day long and it won't lag or hesitate one bit. I'm really lost here. I wonder if it's a sensor somewhere like crank or cam, fuel regulator, failing fuel pump, faulty injectors, or something..

Mine was doing that. There was a recall for the electrical part of the ignition switch which is the harness part of the switch not the switch it's self. Dealer did it for free, TWICE in 7 years!
Already replaced the harness. I did encounter that problem before. Thanks for the reply though

While the car is running wiggle the key around in the ignition to see if it shuts off.
The key does come out like a quarter inch but doesn't cause it to quit. So far only problem I've had is that harness like the guy above mentioned and I've replaced it already.
 
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Connie

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edited sorry didn't notice you already went through the ignition system...have you checked your wires and for contamination where the boot meets the plug?
 
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Rusty Accord

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I know when an engine is stone cold everything runs at a closed loop, but it isn't until I get my engine good and warmed up after 5-10 minutes of driving that it'll do it. And when it acts up there's nothing I can do to stop it. I've been meaning to do a fuel pressure test but I'm having a bit of trouble with trying to figure out how to connect the gauge and locate the vacuum line on the regulator. Funny thing is whenever it cranks back up from having it's fit I can drive it like a race car all day long and it won't lag or hesitate one bit. I'm really lost here. I wonder if it's a sensor somewhere like crank or cam, fuel regulator, failing fuel pump, faulty injectors, or something..

Well if it runs like a "race car" after it stalls out, it's not the fuel pump, or faulty injectors. I really don't think it's the pressure regulator either, since it runs hot or cold. And the sensors would do it all the time hot or cold. It almost sounds like something electrical is shutting off the car. I don't know if it would be the main relay, as they normally act up when warm, and yours is doing it somewhere in between. I suppose it could be the ignition switch harness, but getting another bad one would suck, and doesn't take into account the 2 minute wait before returning to normal.
I know this isn't much help, but it might help to get you or a mechanic friend talking and thinking (sometimes that works). I'm also not sure if this symptom is covered in the FSM either.
 
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