Rear Struts Removal Help

LowerMyCG5

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Same here, I broke one because they are cheap plastic ones (inside) went to Advance Auto and bought Moog ones, worth every penny.



As for removal, I had to remove sway bar and endlinks completely to get easy access to removing both rear shocks.

i got the cheap duralast one lol. i only broke oneside. ill get moogs when i do a rsb upgrade. and yes it was so much easier



Okay, I will try that tomorrow thanks a lot! repped

your welcome . good luck.
 

LowerMyCG5

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Will I still need to have someone step on the brake after I've compressed it?

nope you shouldnt, it may help loosen it from where its bolted in. all you should have to do is push so the strut compresses which makes the whole assembly smaller so itll come out.
 

IllCG301

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Unbolt the bracket the two bolts, long bolt that goes through the strut and the short one that is right beside it then move the strut out if place(I usually kick it) then push down on the rotor and slide it right out
 

2002CG3coupe

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you can put a metal bar and wedge it over the brakes and under the body of the car. Have someone push down on it thus lowering the whole brake assembly and allowing you to tug on the strut and it should come down pretty easy. Thats what i had to do.

+1 this!!!
 

turbo_911

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It does help to put metal bar there and have someone move the brake assembly down but that rear shock is sooo long that it was a pain in the butt to remove it.

When you use metal bar, you put a lot of stress on endlinks as you move the whole assembly down. Safer, easier and better way is to remove endlinks from both sides and just leave the swaybar still attached to the body of the car (where brackets are) and move it the other way.

That will give you a lot of room to move the shock around without moving down whole wheel hub. That's what I did when I had to put back stock suspension when I sold my car and by yourself it is easier that way.

The funny thing is when you install coilovers, you will have to move hub assembly up with jack in order to attach it lol. That's how short coils are compare to OEM shocks.
 

LowerMyCG5

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It does help to put metal bar there and have someone move the brake assembly down but that rear shock is sooo long that it was a pain in the butt to remove it.

When you use metal bar, you put a lot of stress on endlinks as you move the whole assembly down. Safer, easier and better way is to remove endlinks from both sides and just leave the swaybar still attached to the body of the car (where brackets are) and move it the other way.

That will give you a lot of room to move the shock around without moving down whole wheel hub. That's what I did when I had to put back stock suspension when I sold my car and by yourself it is easier that way.

The funny thing is when you install coilovers, you will have to move hub assembly up with jack in order to attach it lol. That's how short coils are compare to OEM shocks.

standing on the breaks is works because either way oem endlinks will break. they dont come off easy either . i had to tourch mine when i replaced it
 

frantz954

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you can put a metal bar and wedge it over the brakes and under the body of the car. Have someone push down on it thus lowering the whole brake assembly and allowing you to tug on the strut and it should come down pretty easy. Thats what I had to do.

worked for me too. i sat on it while pulling out the strut.
 

4door accord02

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Its been a while for me since I worked on struts and springs ... Iam setup right now on Koni yellows and tein springs... Looking to change over gc sleeves with my Koni yellows .. I want to do them my self but I can't remember if I will need a spring compressor ??


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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?d2p5wk
 

nguyenmn55127

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bad news... I was taking off the bolt that connects the strut and control arm and the other end just broke off because it was so rusted...
 
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