*sigh* another turbo thread

EnjoiPugs

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Yes, I am still trying to turbo my accord. No, I am not near finished. I need some help and advice on some parts to get. But first I best update you guys on where I am at. Some of the stuff I have:
manifold
boost gauge and bezel thinger
Intercooler plumbing is pretty much all mapped out and taken care of, as well as the intercooler I have that all mocked up and ready to go
I have a K&N cone filter and I am just using it as a cold air intake kinda right now, it's really good for how it's just in there
Blox 12:1 FMU
vacuum distributor block
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Oil feed and return lines, but I still need the fittings
Oil catch can
Most of the oil pan stuff I have too

So, there's a few things I am looking for help on. I know it's a lot to ask in one thread, but anything you feel like commenting on is cool. If you must flame, do it constructively haha. I was thinking I'd run the VAFC for tuning on a 6psi spring. I am gonna have the shop do this part, but I've heard this is basically a hack? Is there another way of using what I already have to get this tuned? I'm thinking stock injectors here. Never going beyond 6psi. Please help here, I can't afford the ultimate and already have FMU anyways.

Also, I know I want to go a step colder in spark plugs and I want NGKs. Anyone know which ones I should get?

I am going to be using an oil restricter. 1/16th or 1/8?

I need a wideband AF sensor. I was going to go with AEM, but a couple people on here said they had problems with them. What do you suggest and what would be best with the engine management i am proposing?

I think that's about it. Thank you everyone who has helped me thus far. I am seeing this as a little over half way complete now and I think I am getting close to ready to put this bad boy in. I am just excited to get this thing together and show it to you guys. But, in order for that to happen I need some help.:afro: So, help me figure this out so I can get this show on the road and we'll have another boosted accord!!!
 

TurboAV6

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I am about to do a turbo install in the next day or two heres my $.02
Do you have a f or j motor????

First VAFC works it is a hack but it works, if not you can go Greddy Emanaga ultimate or hondata

I would go bigger for fuel injectors something low impedence for the J series not sure about f23 im running 10psi and going with 450cc DSM injectors

When boosting a motor you want the coldest plugs. Either NGK bpr7's or 8's would be best you can go with bpr6's but the colder the better
 

mraw112

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For spark plugs I got one step colder ngk ZFR6F-11. The heat range is the number 6 on the part number. The standard heat range is 5 for the accord.

What the vafc does is that it manipulates the MAP senor reading for the ECU. You can increase and decrease voltage input to the ecu via a percentage. The problem is the the ecu will pretty much shut down the car if its sees a certian voltage coming from the map sensor. The MAP sensor at vacuum (-14.7psi) will read at .8 volts and at 0psi it will read 2.7 Volts. So when you hit boost and Map sensor starts to read above I think 3 volts the ecu will go into a limp mode. The way you can fix this is by Using the afc to decrease the voltage input into the ecu so it will never read above 3v. This is where bigger injectors come in. because you decreased the amount of air seen by the ecu, it will inject less fuel. causing you to run lean. You need bigger injectors to make up for the fuel the ecu is not injecting.

This is what happened when I turboed my car which is ULEV.

If I did it again, I would have just gone chipped OBD1. Its about the same price if not cheaper that buying a AFC. Its Just a little more work hoking it up I believe.
 

1NonlyAccord

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The FMU will work..thats what im using..i was doing 7psi off the spring..then changed my intercooler to a larger one and dropped me down to 5psi.
Theres no need for the VAFC AND the FMU since your using stock injectors..Only if you where to put 450cc injectors or something would i use the VAFC.

People say its cheaper to go OBD1 way and for a real tune..
but I bought half of the parts to convert and thats still not including the 180$ ECU..and 3hour $140 an hour tune..so after thats all said and done its 700$ + injectors,0bd2b-obd1 wire harness conversion, and the 3-2wire IAVC conversion stuff.

but i feel my car is very slow even with 5psi..so im waiting to convert to OBD1 and turn it up to 10psi for some real numbers..ha

Im also using the AEM UEGO..and its been fine..can change the face plate to white or black to suit your other gauges ;) haha
 
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EnjoiPugs

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Okay, good info. I needed some of that. Thanks. I do wanna run the FMU with stock injectors and the missing link. But, I am predicting that I'll be running rich with the 12:1. I was hoping to just find something that could tune the stock injectors, but I guess that was wishful thinking. I am just gonna attempt with the FMU and see what AFR I am getting I guess. So, do you guy use an oil restricter and which size are you using?
 

1NonlyAccord

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mine idles perfect,just like stock.
Im using the BLOX 12:1 FMU and BLOX missing link.
and the installer told me im doing good AFR with it..in boost its 12-12.9..normal cruise in vac;its 14-15

it is a really cheap way and you will not get all the power out of it,thats why im getting tired of it and want to convert to obd1..you will be maxing + out your injectors..its really not meant to go over 6psi with the FMU route.
 

EnjoiPugs

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I don't see how the missing link or an fmu could effect your idle. You must have had it hooked up wrong. Neither of those items should be in use during vacuum, only boost.
 
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