'99 Accord DX F23A5 - About to give up

MasterK

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yeah, look 'old-skool ricers'

Some would run a switch run by the driver for VTEC...

The MSD switches are like a 'Danger: over-rev' light switch.

Best if you mod the map for new cam, VAFC does that, or maybe bump the fuel pressure so it can run the 'less' limit for no VTEC, with the 'mo4r!' limit for VTEC.

Bump it with sockets & vice, don't like non-oem regulators...

Yeah, but VAFC is more than I want to spend. So would have to be the MSD way or probably just swap the top halves of the motor.
 

xci.ed6

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You can go VTEC engine w/o VTEC. it may be a bit slower, till you hook it up.
 

MasterK

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You can go VTEC engine w/o VTEC. it may be a bit slower, till you hook it up.

For a daily driver, are there any others benefits of a VAFC? I'm by no means a tuner or know one.
 
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xci.ed6

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you can tune a bit, the old ones you could monitor O2 sensor

on a 91 civic I modded the rpm point at highway speed (5th gear, 70mph) to make it extra-lean and get 42mpg out of a turbocharged D15B2
 

MasterK

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Okay, I'm coming back to the ECU. If I get an LX/EX Harness and USDM ECU, won't this swap be easy? In the grand scheme, having an ECU flashed for immobilizer isn't that big of a deal. Even some locksmiths can do it. I've looked at H22/23 and F20B swaps. They all seem much more complicated or impossible when emissions is required.
 

james'99

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If you want to swap in the harness and ECU, I don't foresee an issue. 99% positive but maybe someone else will confirm.
 

xci.ed6

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Most I have checked out were pretty much the same computer, with an extra output...

But I haven't looked at these wiring diagrams, just gotta print them, go down each list with a maker, cross what's the same and we gotta figure out whats different...
 

MasterK

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I found an ECU with ignition on fleeBay for about $150. Harness is about $75. That is definitely the easiest route. Is $225 worth easy? How much of a PITA is swapping out the ignition?
 

Hoff Daddy

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The head was taken to a reputable machine shop, pressure tested, resurfaced, and valve job. It should be fine.
Use it then and get a new block if the bottom end has problems. You could probably buy the a1 and use everything but the head, sell the head, keep it, mount it on your wall like a trophy, your choice. That way you know you have a good tranny and bottom end. I'd say you could get at least a $100 easy out of the head if you bought an entire engine, look for bottom ends and trannys also... You could get a better deal if it's being sold with parts robbed off it but make sure everything you need is there.
Btw the a1 wouldn't be hard to make work. Vtec engages at 3500rpm and you can get an f23a1 ecu and a section of the wiring harness or use a piggy back ecu like said above.
 
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