RedRyder
Save the manuals
Looks like the TL shift knob
UPDATED: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
- Thread starter puzzlemaster94
- Start date
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
I believe it is
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
So I talked to quite a few of the OGs with this swap, and I'm going to try to compile all this data.
This is in regards to this picture.
J32wiring by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
It says start with Pin #1. Pin #1 is not there for 98-99 Accords. So do not do anything here if you are a 98-99. Pin#1 is the very top left of the plug, I'll also throw the diagram in here too. The only reason I bring this up, is because there is #1 stamped on the very right side of the dash harness plug. And this made me think I was doing everything wrong. It will have numbers on the plug (1, 11, 25, and 32), ignore all of these. I have no idea why they are there. All they do is add confusion. So start with the wire next to the blank pin#1 slot on this diagram, which is pin #2. Do not do anything with pin#1 with the Accord harness if you are 98-99. I will bring up what to do with the wire below.
1.) The 98-99 Accords do not have a wire that goes into the #1 pin (top left) on the dash harness. #14 on the E-Clip from the CL Type S Manual Dash Harness is supposed to go here, but cannot. So this wire goes up to the temperature sensor on the right-most plug to the yellow/green wire and gets spliced in. This wire goes into a coolant temperature sensor on the TypeS, which is not available for the 98-99.
-----So to get around this, grab the coolant temp sensor from the J30 coolant housing and tap the J32 one. Then wire it to the yellow/green wire on the right plug of the gauge cluster. I will test this and let everyone know if this works.
2.) When installing your clutch pedal, make sure you have a yellow sensor near the top of the clutch pedal. There are two pins in here. One is for the neutral safety switch and the other is a ground. The top pin is the neutral safety switch, the bottom is the ground. Once you have the wire going from the neutral safety switch to the ECU, splice in another wire to the drivers side multiplexor.
3.) Still waiting to hear on wiring cruise control.
4.) I've also been told that on the 98-99, you need to run wires to the fuel pressure sensor. If you do not need to pass emissions, you do not need to do this. I do not need to pass emissions, so I will not be doing this. But I will leave a picture of what I was sent about this.
While trying to find a wiring diagram for the Accord V6 dash harness online, I nearly went insane. I spent a good 4 hours searching with different keywords, different phrasing, etc... Never found one diagram on Google. You will however find 4 cylinder F23 diagrams, Odyssey diagrams, and just a ton of different Civic ones. None of these I needed. So finally after giving up, I had some sent to me by Steven. You can find the CL-S one on J32A.com.
V6 Dash Harness Pinout Connector A (Dash Harness to ECU)
14798971_1674374842876871_175327987_n by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
CL Type S Pinouts E Plug (dash harness to ECU)
-Steven's notes
J32 wiring Steven notes by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
14808758_1262306230459763_878560982_o by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
Now I'm going to post pictures of the wiring from Varnell's swap that he sent me.
I added the photoshop words and arrows to make everything easier to understand.
Varnell ECU Wiring PIN 1 and 14 by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
Varnell Cluster Wiring Explained by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
NSS (Neutral Safety Switch Wiring)
Varnell ECU Side Neutral Safety Switch Explained by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
Varnell Neutral Safety Switch Clutch Pedal by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
Varnell Neutral Safety Switch Multiplexor by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
To clarify on this picture, the black arrow is pointing at the clip where you match the wire up. Should be 6th one down, but I'll check and be sure. Photoshop is not letting me turn arrows for some reason, so that's why this one looks weird.
Fuel Side Wiring pictures
Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
So I talked to quite a few of the OGs with this swap, and I'm going to try to compile all this data.
This is in regards to this picture.
J32wiring by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrIt says start with Pin #1. Pin #1 is not there for 98-99 Accords. So do not do anything here if you are a 98-99. Pin#1 is the very top left of the plug, I'll also throw the diagram in here too. The only reason I bring this up, is because there is #1 stamped on the very right side of the dash harness plug. And this made me think I was doing everything wrong. It will have numbers on the plug (1, 11, 25, and 32), ignore all of these. I have no idea why they are there. All they do is add confusion. So start with the wire next to the blank pin#1 slot on this diagram, which is pin #2. Do not do anything with pin#1 with the Accord harness if you are 98-99. I will bring up what to do with the wire below.
1.) The 98-99 Accords do not have a wire that goes into the #1 pin (top left) on the dash harness. #14 on the E-Clip from the CL Type S Manual Dash Harness is supposed to go here, but cannot. So this wire goes up to the temperature sensor on the right-most plug to the yellow/green wire and gets spliced in. This wire goes into a coolant temperature sensor on the TypeS, which is not available for the 98-99.
-----So to get around this, grab the coolant temp sensor from the J30 coolant housing and tap the J32 one. Then wire it to the yellow/green wire on the right plug of the gauge cluster. I will test this and let everyone know if this works.
2.) When installing your clutch pedal, make sure you have a yellow sensor near the top of the clutch pedal. There are two pins in here. One is for the neutral safety switch and the other is a ground. The top pin is the neutral safety switch, the bottom is the ground. Once you have the wire going from the neutral safety switch to the ECU, splice in another wire to the drivers side multiplexor.
3.) Still waiting to hear on wiring cruise control.
4.) I've also been told that on the 98-99, you need to run wires to the fuel pressure sensor. If you do not need to pass emissions, you do not need to do this. I do not need to pass emissions, so I will not be doing this. But I will leave a picture of what I was sent about this.
While trying to find a wiring diagram for the Accord V6 dash harness online, I nearly went insane. I spent a good 4 hours searching with different keywords, different phrasing, etc... Never found one diagram on Google. You will however find 4 cylinder F23 diagrams, Odyssey diagrams, and just a ton of different Civic ones. None of these I needed. So finally after giving up, I had some sent to me by Steven. You can find the CL-S one on J32A.com.
V6 Dash Harness Pinout Connector A (Dash Harness to ECU)
14798971_1674374842876871_175327987_n by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrCL Type S Pinouts E Plug (dash harness to ECU)
-Steven's notes
J32 wiring Steven notes by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr14808758_1262306230459763_878560982_o by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrNow I'm going to post pictures of the wiring from Varnell's swap that he sent me.
I added the photoshop words and arrows to make everything easier to understand.
Varnell ECU Wiring PIN 1 and 14 by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrVarnell Cluster Wiring Explained by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrNSS (Neutral Safety Switch Wiring)
Varnell ECU Side Neutral Safety Switch Explained by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrVarnell Neutral Safety Switch Clutch Pedal by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrVarnell Neutral Safety Switch Multiplexor by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrTo clarify on this picture, the black arrow is pointing at the clip where you match the wire up. Should be 6th one down, but I'll check and be sure. Photoshop is not letting me turn arrows for some reason, so that's why this one looks weird.
Fuel Side Wiring pictures
Untitled by Evan Aschbacher, on FlickrUntitled by Evan Aschbacher, on Flickr
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Varnell
Well-Known Member
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
The pic is less blurry on here. Not the sixth place down. Looks like the third one down. Great write up. Captions really help.
The pic is less blurry on here. Not the sixth place down. Looks like the third one down. Great write up. Captions really help.
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
So wired the car up today and it actually runs and drives. I'll post detailed stuff later next week, but wow it feels great to finally hear it run
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So wired the car up today and it actually runs and drives. I'll post detailed stuff later next week, but wow it feels great to finally hear it run
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
Badass!
Badass!
Varnell
Well-Known Member
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
Welcome to the dark side, my friend.
Welcome to the dark side, my friend.
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
Good to be here. I hear there are cookies
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good to be here. I hear there are cookies
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TurboAccord99
Active Member
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
Awesome!
Awesome!
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Re: UPDATED with Wiring Issues: Evan's Quest for a J32 6MT 6GA
So the motor and trans are in the car and move under their own power. But I'm having issues:
1.) So I welded a stud on the shift linkage to prevent the gears being backward, but when I drove it, the gears were backward. Like reverse was next to 5th, 1st was where 2nd would be, etc. But I have a 7th Gen Accord trans and shifter, so don't know how that happened. But just changed it back and it was fine.
2.) The car will not rev over 2,000 or it starts bucking back and forth will driving. Kind of sounds like fuel cut, but can't confirm this. I've checked and fixed vacuum leaks, have had no luck. I've been told it might be a bad crank or cam sensor, but if it's the crank sensor, the motor will have to come out again. Might try putting my old intake manifold and see if that solves it, might just be the J37 manifold not sealing properly. Could be throttle body spacer also. Who knows at this point. Any help would be most appreciated.
3.) Car is making a strange sound while pushing the clutch in. Like maybe a loose throw out bearing. But maybe it needs to break in, so those that have swapped, did yours do this and go away?
On the wiring side of things, I posted a picture saying that the 6th space down is where the neutral safety switch wire goes. I was wrong. It is the third space down on that connector that is pointed at. I will fix this and repost it.
So the motor and trans are in the car and move under their own power. But I'm having issues:
1.) So I welded a stud on the shift linkage to prevent the gears being backward, but when I drove it, the gears were backward. Like reverse was next to 5th, 1st was where 2nd would be, etc. But I have a 7th Gen Accord trans and shifter, so don't know how that happened. But just changed it back and it was fine.
2.) The car will not rev over 2,000 or it starts bucking back and forth will driving. Kind of sounds like fuel cut, but can't confirm this. I've checked and fixed vacuum leaks, have had no luck. I've been told it might be a bad crank or cam sensor, but if it's the crank sensor, the motor will have to come out again. Might try putting my old intake manifold and see if that solves it, might just be the J37 manifold not sealing properly. Could be throttle body spacer also. Who knows at this point. Any help would be most appreciated.
3.) Car is making a strange sound while pushing the clutch in. Like maybe a loose throw out bearing. But maybe it needs to break in, so those that have swapped, did yours do this and go away?
On the wiring side of things, I posted a picture saying that the 6th space down is where the neutral safety switch wire goes. I was wrong. It is the third space down on that connector that is pointed at. I will fix this and repost it.
Last edited:
