Car runs then shuts down after a second.

Having a weird problem here.
I was driving down the freeway when all of a sudden I lost power. RPM was 0. Tried re-starting and it would start up and then die after a second. When it died it DID NOT stumble it just shut off. I would press the gas and start and the motor, and the motor would rev normally but then shut off suddenly and not stumble. I could hear the main relay clicking when i primed the pump (but could not hear the pump at this point as i was on a freeway with cars passing)
Tried starting the following day, ONCE and it did not run.
Tried starting it two days later, it runs normally? I made it a point to listen for the pump (which i could hear humming) and the main relay clicking.

I have read how there is a recall on the ignition switches but when I had my car running today i jiggled the ignition switch and then i moved it close to I and III and it did not cut out.

I have read how there are issues with main relays, but in my experience if you have a bad relay it WILL NOT turn over and run for a second it will just crank n crank as there is no fuel. From what I remember if you dont hear a click, it's not working. (I had an 88 civic with this issue).

I dont think its a fuel pump issue as i can hear it hum and it runs fine now. I would assume that if the pump failed when the car shut down the car would stumble.

I have been driving with a P1457 code for a while now but decided to check diagnostic port today. I have found a P0336 and P1361 (TDC and CKP intermittent signal).

Did my timing belt change myself three months ago and have not had an issue, put TDC/CKP sensors back, but used high temp silicone to seal the upper and lower covers as I didnt have new gaskets.

As an experiment I pulled the TDC/CKP sensor connector today, it would crank but not run. Once I plugged it back in it ran fine. So guess if that crapped out it could take the motor down. (anyone have experience with this?)



Really weary at this point. Thought I had it all figured out, but the more you research the more weary you become. I can help others, but find it hard to help myself when under pressure.
Was wondering if anyone could help me out with this issue. Or how to troubleshoot it.

Going to pull my main relay anyways and check/reflow the joints.
Clearing the codes (-ve batt disconnect) and going to see if the codes come back (the TDC/CKP codes).

QUESTION: Does a ignition coil/distributor behave this way (runs for a second then stops)? I would imagine once it dies... it dies (it would just crank n crank and not run)

I'm pointing to distributor/relay/ignition switch as it just cut out. But I could not get it running after being on the side of the road for an hour. NOTE Electrical system was fine, did not cut out during restart process.

HELP PLEASE!!



Note: Have 325,000 KM
bought it at 200K never changed fuel pump/filter or distributor.

these exact symptoms happen to a lot of people i've talked to including myself and the cause was different everytime. ill tell you the cause of mine which was the terminal on the alternator broke off. i soldered it back on and runs perfectly now.

@RackedOut
Thanks for your response.

Was it the positive post of the alternator where you have a #8 or #10 nut securing it or was it the connector with the multiple wires?

So when this happened and you tried restarting it ran for a second and then shut down?

I'll check that out now as its currently running at the moment. I'll wiggle wires around it.

Ricepicker said:

@RackedOut
Thanks for your response.

Was it the positive post of the alternator where you have a #8 or #10 nut securing it or was it the connector with the multiple wires?

So when this happened and you tried restarting it ran for a second and then shut down?

I'll check that out now as its currently running at the moment. I'll wiggle wires around it.

Click to expand...

yes about the bolt. the entire terminal broke in half.. lord knows how that happened. i have the 3.0 engine so where the alt is just beside/under the front side valve cover, on the right hand side, THAT terminal was toast. the wire was barely touching it so because of this i would get power sometimes and sometimes not. (there was NOT a secure connection there). i pulled the rubber cover off of the terminal and the wire was disconnected. check that. if that is not the case, just trace your electrical harness. and check to see if your VIN plate in the windshield has a notch in it which is indicative of the ignition switch being replaced. if its not.. call honda, they will replace it for free as there was a recall on it. hope this stuff helps.

UPDATE:
Tried wiggling connectors on altrenator and no luck, car still runs.

Opened up distributor and did not find anything unusual (no melted parts). Cleaned up contacts with sandpaper and put everything back together, car still runs.

Basically its running but weary about verifying it as road worthy. I would rather find the cause and solve that issue. Guess I have to sit back and wait for it to occur again.

But found a good troubleshooting guide for anyone who falls on this thread in the future:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html#flowchart

Again, any advise or experiences on a similar matter would be helpful.

check if you have exhaust smoke coming out the muffler.... my had these symptoms before and it was a clogged catalytic convertor....

well on our cars the main relay's dont really go. That was mainly a EG/EF/EK civic issue. It could be the ignition, or even maybe your spark plug wires?

Also noticed your in Toronto. You should join up on www.torontoaccords.com if you havent already!

@DarkSideAccord - I saw smoke coming out of exhaust, did it throw a code when your cat was clogged? I think that's coming my way sometime soon as it believe my cat and exhaust is original.

@Sketch o5 - going to inquire about a free replacement switch

@twofast4u - Will probably swap out the distributor and wires next with a scrap yard one.

Took main relay out and it was perfect, no cracks, good quality solder joints.

But I have decided to change my fuel pump. As i believe it is original by looking at the rusted screws holding in the pump. Luckily I don't need to drop the tank! Pulled the carpet in the trunk and found an access hole.

But really going to watch the TDC sensor closely too.

does the car feel responsive when it's driveable..?

if it's the cat, the car feels like it's struggling to move eventhough you keep stepping on the gas