Going for a re-tune.... (Round #2) Updated 10/28/13

Re: Going for a re-tune....

Devin, just remove/delete the shafts

Sorry, I know it's kind of late for that, or you'd have to backtrack a bunch.. but if you needed to do that it would be a good option.

Re: Going for a re-tune....

See that's what i thought it was too, but there is only one way to set up the rear balance through the rear maintenance hole. You use a screwdriver to lock it in the correct place.
Then the front balance shaft is set by a dimple on it to match the dimple on the oil pump housing.

So I don't know how that could off or screwed up to where it was causing the vibrations...

I would eliminate the balance shafts, if the motor was out of the car (it'd make it one helluva lot easier that's for sure).

The only other thing that I could think of that would cause that vibration is the timing itself is off, which doesn't make sense either because it couldn't be any more spot on.

The water pump doesn't matter where it sits so that's out too. And the valves weren't bent or anything (I would hope not at least). And I don't know how anything else could be out of balance due to anything I did. I set everything to piston #1 TDC, and checked what seems to be 100x's over.

That leaves me with the timing map is off or something... and which is causing the engine to run rough and vibrate due to the gas igniting at the wrong time (hence the timing map/timing itself)....

Any thoughts?

Re: Going for a re-tune....

hotaccord243 said:

See that's what i thought it was too, but there is only one way to set up the rear balance through the rear maintenance hole. You use a screwdriver to lock it in the correct place.
Then the front balance shaft is set by a dimple on it to match the dimple on the oil pump housing.

So I don't know how that could off or screwed up to where it was causing the vibrations...

I would eliminate the balance shafts, if the motor was out of the car (it'd make it one helluva lot easier that's for sure).

The only other thing that I could think of that would cause that vibration is the timing itself is off, which doesn't make sense either because it couldn't be any more spot on.

The water pump doesn't matter where it sits so that's out too. And the valves weren't bent or anything (I would hope not at least). And I don't know how anything else could be out of balance due to anything I did. I set everything to piston #1 TDC, and checked what seems to be 100x's over.

That leaves me with the timing map is off or something... and which is causing the engine to run rough and vibrate due to the gas igniting at the wrong time (hence the timing map/timing itself)....

Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

The ignition timing would have to be off to a fairly substantial amount for it to be vibrating that much during idle. My thought would have to be something mechanically is off. When i was setting up ignition timing i set the timing to way retarded for the crank marks, and it was not vibrating....wasn't running smoothly, but no vibration.

In regards to the ignition timing in the parameters window being different from the ignition map value, I would have to say that you probably have some kind of ignition timing modifiers working on the table. Something like temp vs ignition timing correction for example. Look through the advanced tables under ignition. You might find something under there.

Re: Going for a re-tune....

akoutmos said:

The ignition timing would have to be off to a fairly substantial amount for it to be vibrating that much during idle. My thought would have to be something mechanically is off. When i was setting up ignition timing i set the timing to way retarded for the crank marks, and it was not vibrating....wasn't running smoothly, but no vibration.

In regards to the ignition timing in the parameters window being different from the ignition map value, I would have to say that you probably have some kind of ignition timing modifiers working on the table. Something like temp vs ignition timing correction for example. Look through the advanced tables under ignition. You might find something under there.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! That's what I was not only scared of but also thinking.

I'll have to go check the modifiers and see if that is it. That sounds right and I know exactly what you are talking about too.

Re: Going for a re-tune....

Well I know I have been slow, but I guess i'm in no rush due to over a foot of new snow today.... LOL.

But either way looks like I am finally giving in and buying a AEM UEGO Wideband gauge soon... Just got to find out where to mount it (Either a gauge pod for 3 gauges, stealth mount, cubby mount, or in the actual dash)... don't know exactly just yet.

I will try to take a closer look at the car and where these vibrations are coming from and go from there....

I'll get there eventually!

Re: Going for a re-tune....

Slow and steady wins the race.....at least when you are building the car

Re: Going for a re-tune....

akoutmos said:

Slow and steady wins the race.....at least when you are building the car

Click to expand...

Ha thanks akoutmos.... looks like it's just down to trying to determine what is causing the vibrations now.... I had to pay into the government this year for taxes (which sucks...) so any purchases are on hold. But hopefully get it to a smooth idle at least while i pay that sh** off.

Re: Going for a re-tune....

So, I took a much needed break from working on the car (I know it's been a long time....)...

Last night I ran a static compression test and a leakdown test and the numbers all came in below 115. I believe it was 95, 105, 100, and 115. Just doesn't seem right, that on top of losing over 10 psi in each cylinder confirms that something is wrong...

Currently I am in the "taking my time" process of ripping everything apart again. As in removing the head and everything around it to see if I have a bent valve, bad seat, and also replace the headgasket again to see if that is causing the bad compression and loss of what little compression I had.

My guess is first off the head gasket didn't seat correctly, secondly, I am hoping it is just a valve or a valve seat, and just need to clean up around the seals, probably replace the distributer (to be safe), check the cylinder walls for any odd wear (pistons/rings) and any other odd wear or loose items and just start from there.

I will also be starting fresh with the timing to just double check and make sure everything is both in mechanically and electronically correct, sealed, and set.

It is still running rough no matter where I put the timing or change the timing map to compensate for what the timing should be....

Thoughts/ideas?

Re: Going for a re-tune....

Devin, you really need to get on the ball and get this thing running! I'm getting an itch to play with the Accord again, and I need a good setup to copy.

Re: Going for a re-tune....

AFAccord said:

Devin, you really need to get on the ball and get this thing running! I'm getting an itch to play with the Accord again, and I need a good setup to copy.

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WOW i didnt know you still logged on here