Sleeves for a F23A1 and other questions

Alright guys I'm a college student going for my degree in Automotive technologies, so being a college student even though I work 35 hours a week I'm still fairly broke, so with that in mind I am building a F23A1 for my car, and since I'm broke I want to build this engine as bulletproof as I can. So I already bought a used engine off of craiglist that was a complete disaster, it ran into the oil pump problem where the RTV that they use degrades and it was just dumping oil apparently and yeah bad things happened the 2nd Aux balance shaft bearing seized on the shaft and got pulled out of its place in the block and got smacked by piston #3 and the journal for #3 piston was no where to be found but thats okay with me because I planned on replacing and upgrading everything so all I needed was the block, cradle, head, timing covers and the crank. The crank is far gone so I'm just going to go to the junkyard with a micrometer and grab another one that is good for $50, the motor itself I paid $150 so I'm alright with what i got for my money. Now this motor had about 200k miles on it and besides the oil problem the cylinder walls are not bad at all they are all measuring 85.0 mm (+/- 0.01mm) which is alright if i was going for a stock rebuild but with my build goal of 300WHP its not okay I want to replace the sleeves I haven't found anyone who does aftermarket sleeve upgrades. Does Darton make custom sleeve upgrades and about how much will it cost or is their someone out there that makes better sleeves? Also I have seen some things mentioning a high flow oil pump but I was having trouble finding info on it does anyone have first hand experience with the high flow pump? Also on my head build I plan on a port and polish obviously and replacing the springs and the cam with ones from Bisimoto but the valves I was thinking of just leaving them stock. There is not much room in that head to go much bigger on the vales and the amount of work and more importantly the amount of money to go to bigger valves is far too much compared to what I imagine the results it will yield. I am not opposed going aftermarket though as long as the benefits are worth the cost. I may be broke but I know that building a engine with the best parts I can afford will save me a LOT of money and heartache in the long run. I have no problem spending $5-6k on parts and machine work for my engine I do however have a problem with spending all that money to have it blow up when I finally put it on a dyno. Nothing really urgent its probably going to be another year before I start putting this engine together. Also general question on intake/ throttle body set up I have heard of people boreing the opening in the plenum and tossing on a Hyundai Tiburon throttle body? I admit some of these subjects I have only done light research on but since I am VERY busy between school and work I figured it would be faster to ask the guys who have browsed all the threads and tried some of this stuff what I needed to know. Thanks for any info you guys can provide

other things to know
- Pistons are going to be Weisco & rods will be Crower
- I am NOT doing a head swap to F22 because I think it will be less reliable and too much of a headache especially for my first ever build
- I am going to be putting together myself not paying a shop to put it together.

Alright guys I'm a college student going for my degree in Automotive technologies, so being a college student even though I work 35 hours a week I'm still fairly broke, so with that in mind I am building a F23A1 for my car, and since I'm broke I want to build this engine as bulletproof as I can. So I already bought a used engine off of craiglist that was a complete disaster, it ran into the oil pump problem where the RTV that they use degrades and it was just dumping oil apparently and yeah bad things happened the 2nd Aux balance shaft bearing seized on the shaft and got pulled out of its place in the block and got smacked by piston #3 and the journal for #3 piston was no where to be found but thats okay with me because I planned on replacing and upgrading everything so all I needed was the block, cradle, head, timing covers and the crank. The crank is far gone so I'm just going to go to the junkyard with a micrometer and grab another one that is good for $50, the motor itself I paid $150 so I'm alright with what i got for my money. Now this motor had about 200k miles on it and besides the oil problem the cylinder walls are not bad at all they are all measuring 85.0 mm (+/- 0.01mm) which is alright if i was going for a stock rebuild but with my build goal of 300WHP its not okay I want to replace the sleeves I haven't found anyone who does aftermarket sleeve upgrades. Does Darton make custom sleeve upgrades and about how much will it cost or is their someone out there that makes better sleeves? Also I have seen some things mentioning a high flow oil pump but I was having trouble finding info on it does anyone have first hand experience with the high flow pump? Also on my head build I plan on a port and polish obviously and replacing the springs and the cam with ones from Bisimoto but the valves I was thinking of just leaving them stock. There is not much room in that head to go much bigger on the vales and the amount of work and more importantly the amount of money to go to bigger valves is far too much compared to what I imagine the results it will yield. I am not opposed going aftermarket though as long as the benefits are worth the cost. I may be broke but I know that building a engine with the best parts I can afford will save me a LOT of money and heartache in the long run. I have no problem spending $5-6k on parts and machine work for my engine I do however have a problem with spending all that money to have it blow up when I finally put it on a dyno. Nothing really urgent its probably going to be another year before I start putting this engine together. Also general question on intake/ throttle body set up I have heard of people boreing the opening in the plenum and tossing on a Hyundai Tiburon throttle body? I admit some of these subjects I have only done light research on but since I am VERY busy between school and work I figured it would be faster to ask the guys who have browsed all the threads and tried some of this stuff what I needed to know. Thanks for any info you guys can provide
other things to know
- Pistons are going to be Weisco & rods will be Crower
- I am NOT doing a head swap to F22 because I think it will be less reliable and too much of a headache especially for my first ever build
- I am going to be putting together myself not paying a shop to put it together.

• Interesting plan but anyway you are slightly on track but you need to do extensive research if you want a 300 WHP F23. You could always copy someone else build but to each his own problems and firstly, you made it clear that you’re broke so how do you want all these sweet stuff and can’t pay for it because BISIMOTO parts are not cheap. Secondly, there is no such thing as a bulletproof engine unless SPOON MOTORING builds it, you gonna **** up more times especially getting the timing and the motor to even crank when you think its finish.
• You don’t need sleeves for the F23 block unless you plan to push it over 400HP. F23 block can take a heluvah beating.
• And if you beef up the valve spring might as well go big on valves to keep up with the BISI cams. I think he sells level 1, 2, and 3 camshaft but the level one should pass emission test.
• And you could use the k20 pistons if you want.
• Let a professional do the honing, boring and port polish for you because it’s a delicate job with no room for error.
• You don’t need a high flow oil pump for 300WHP but you do need a high flow fuel pump.