Why won't my car rev past 4k???

Ok so ever since I got my Accord it's never rev'd past 4k rpm. At first I didn't care I just always shifted before i hit that. But now I would really like to know why and fix it. It's a 98 4 cylinder coupe. Also it came with an after market gauge cluster that red lines at 7k, I don't know if that's where it's supposed to red line at since this is my first accord. Please help me out though if anyone can.

Check engine light? Probably a VTEC issue. How much oil do you have?

Have you changed the oil recently? If you have and your oil level is good, remove the back up fuse in the passenger side for 30 seconds and start it back up, warm it up, and take it on up to 5k. See what happens and report back.

VTEC won't engage unless there is sufficient oil pressure. It will stay that way until the code is cleared from the ECU and will happen again when you get around 4k if the oil pressure is low yet again.

Now, don't let oil pressure low scare you when I say that. The oil pressure is still sufficient for your engine to run. There is two oil pressure sensors on the engine. One for VTEC. One for the standard oil pressure. Safe to drive. Just not enough for VTEC. Once you check your oil and clear the codes, if it immediately comes back, there is an issue with the VTEC solenoid. There is a screen where oil enters the solenoid. If it is clogged, that will cause an issue.

I will provide the procedure in another post to help you should you need it. But if your oil level is good, reset the ECU by pulling that fuse I mentioned for 30 seconds and trying again. If that doesn't work, disconnect battery for 30 seconds. Honestly, if you have a code reader, you can just erase the codes but I assume you don't.

The VTEC solenoid is located on the passenger side of the car on the intake side of the head in the corner.

Grab a can of brake clean and you will see two connectors on it. A gray one and I believe the round one is green. The green/round one is the oil pressure switch. Before you continue, remove this switch with a wrench/ratchet while the solenoid is on the car. Carbon can build up in this switch causing false readings especially after seafoaming the engine. Spray brake cleaner inside there. Get everything out till its clear. Mind your eyes! I did this once on a Integra GSR and it was a bad day/hour. Need I say more?

Assy. #9 is the VTEC solenoid



http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=2DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD

Before you continue this job, you should purchase #11 and possibly an EGR gasket. If you can access the three bolts that bolt the vtec solenoid to your head with the tools you have at your disposal, okay. If not, purchase EGR gasket #14 from the following link (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=2DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=INTAKE+MANIFOLD). There are three bolts that hold the electronic solenoid to the assembly. THESE ARE NOT THE BOLTS I AM REFERRING TO. I am referring to the three bolts that are perpendicular and going into the head, #24 in pic above. Take those out and the solenoid should come out. If you feel confident in yourself to put it back together properly, you can remove those three bolts on top and remove the plunger to thoroughly clean the entire solenoid. Not necessary but do it if you feel. Really, we are in here to change that gasket. You can spray down all you can access here with the brake clean.

Personally, if you are careful, remove those three bolts on top and spray all in there with brake clean too. just to get passages clear. If you don't know if you will be able to put the plunger back in properly, take care not to disturb it. Just spray the passages clean. I'm only saying be careful because there is a right way to put this plunger in in that there is a position you can put this in where it will not move. Well, then you will be back in here again and there is no need for that. Put those three bolts back in. Replace the gasket and put it back on the head. Clear codes again by that fuse or battery and try it again.

Oil is low! I will fill up and see how it responds. Not sure why the oil is low since i change it every now and then.

iDReamer36 said:

Oil is low! I will fill up and see how it responds. Not sure why the oil is low since i change it every now and then.

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Next oil change, run half a can of seafoam in the oil for 50 miles and change the oil. Made a big difference on my car. You'll still need to do the back up fuse regardless to erase the code. Your check engine light on?

check engine light is on. I put some oil in but I'm still going to do a oil change very soon and check out that seafoam a.s.a.p. I work a lot on the weekends so I'll check the other stuff as soon as Monday rolls around. thanks though.

Yup. You'll have to force the check engine light off before it will even try to rev past 4k again. Let me know bud!

So I changed the v-tech selonoid and delete the code for the check engine light and it ran past 4k with v-tech running nice! Thanks for all the advice.

iDReamer36 said:

So I changed the v-tech selonoid and delete the code for the check engine light and it ran past 4k with v-tech running nice! Thanks for all the advice.

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Sure bud! But why did you change the whole thing?

the code came up saying it wasn't reading the v-tech so I got a used one for cheap and it worked.