New problem: transmission

I was out driving today (1998 V6 LX Coupe) and started having some transmission problems. I've heard the transmissions in these cars aren't particularly robust, but I hope it's something simple...

When accelerating, the engine would first rev up without imparting any motion, as if a clutch pedal was being held in. Then the car would smoothly start to accelerate, as if a clutch pedal were gently being let out.

When coming to a stop, the car would stay in gear until the engine dipped below idle and started to bog. Then, right before it would have stalled, the transmission would come out of gear. It just waited too long before coming out of gear, basically.

I parked the car for a bit then tried to drive it again. This time, the car did not move at all, no matter which forward gear I selected (I did not think to try reverse). The transmission was acting like it was in neutral. Except...if I revved the engine up high, the car would start to creep forward, but just barely. I got the car to move like this about 50 feet, then it stalled when I took my foot off the accelerator.

I did not check the fluid at the time because...and I'm embarrassed to admit this...I could not quickly find the dipstick. I looked for all of maybe five seconds and didn't see anything obvious so I just assumed that there was none, like many other cars. But now I'm home and I have my Haynes book and I see there is one. Could low fluid level be causing all this? I can't check right now because it's parked about 45 minutes from where I live, but I'll go check tomorrow.

If the fluid is low, must I add it through the plug hole? The Haynes book says transmission in the V6 models must be topped off through a plug hole, while the I4 models can be topped off through the dipstick tube. Why can't the V6 models be topped off that way, which sounds simpler?

If the transmission fluid is very low, will the transmission itself have become damaged because of that? If I need to replace the transmission, how much will that cost? Is rebuilding it a cheaper option, or more expensive?

1st problem: 1st gear clutch is not engaging
2nd problem: 1st gear clutch not dis-engaging

I bet when you find your dipstick the fluid is black, so change it.

Change it.

Anytime it looks dark, change it.

Mine needed ~4 changes every 5k miles, now I do every 15k. The reason is for a drain & fill you only get 1/3rd of the fluid. So 3 times to replace it all, the 4th to get whats mixed.

I know I posted that I filled it through the dipstick hole, you can. I did a D&F yesterday and saw the fill plug, I guess I used it (memory loss from TBI, oops). Not bad, 17mm, says ATF on top, a long funnel is all you need. It looks buried, but there's a decent amount of space.

As for replacement, I have no idea, first let's see if you need one.

Well fortunately, and completely by coincidence, it's parked in the parking lot of a shopping center that includes an auto parts store. If it needs fluid, what specifically should I get?

real Honda ATF.

The Honda automatic is different than others. VERY different. Only use ATF from Honda dealerships! It may be a bit pricey, IIRC ~$7.50/qt, but worth it.

Oh, it only needs ~3qt per change. It's not too bad for expense that way.

xci.ed6 said:

real Honda ATF.

The Honda automatic is different than others. VERY different. Only use ATF from Honda dealerships! It may be a bit pricey, IIRC ~$7.50/qt, but worth it.

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Only Honda ATF. That's it.

Any check engine light?

The "maintenance required" light has been lit. A few months ago, the car was driven a short distance with part of the exhaust system removed, and the O2 sensor that goes in the main cat disconnected. I had assumed this caused a code to be stored and since it hasn't been cleared yet, the light still comes on. But yesterday, the light next to that one, the one with the little engine outline picture, also came on.

Maintenance required light is a dummy light for an oil change. Hold the trip button for 10 seconds while you turn the key to on and wait and it should go off. It means absolutely nothing. It is just a light that comes on after I think 6000 mi of driving after being reset.

The check engine light should test when the car is first started and then go out. If it is not testing, it is safe to assume that the bulb is out.

The fluid was low, just covering the twisty bit at the bottom of the dipstick.

I checked ahead of time at the nearest Honda dealership and confirmed their parts department was closed today. I was willing to try Dexron III, which the owner's manual does say can be used in an emergency, but the Auto Zone right there was out. So I'm just gonna try it another day.

Now for clarification: is it safe to refill the V6's auto transmission fluid through the dipstick tube? The Haynes book says to fill it through a plug; the owner's manual does not, and says to fill through the tube in what seems to be a generic statement to both the I4 and V6 auto transmissions.

JJR512 said:

Now for clarification: is it safe to refill the V6's auto transmission fluid through the dipstick tube? The Haynes book says to fill it through a plug; the owner's manual does not, and says to fill through the tube in what seems to be a generic statement to both the I4 and V6 auto transmissions.

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In theory, for me anyway, its all going to the same place. That said, you may have to do it more than once to get it into the system.