Still low idle! Really?! Wow...

swollen_cu said:

That hose is either
1) breather for the trans
2) breather for the rear mount, which is hydraulic. If you ever break your rear mount and have to replace it, you'll see a bunch of hydraulic fluid splash out of it.

And they just sit there, so don't worry about all that.

As for the rounded off nut... What size socket were you using? Try and use a 6 point 12mm. It'll grab better than the 12 point 12mm you're using.

Click to expand...

Don't call me out on not doing a multiple quote. I got busy and forgot. Yeah I used one of those star sockets that are suppose to grab onto nuts & bolts better. Didn't work. My pops is going to get it off. I don't want to round it anymore.

Today is the day, everyone cross their fingers and I'll update y'all on the results...

Here are a couple of pictures of the intake manifold apart.



And this one again to see how bad it was.


This was a real pain in the *** to get everything off. I ended up using 5 cans of carb/throttle body cleaner to get all the carbon chunks and oil off. This is clearly a sign of blow by from my old engine. So if you burn tons of oil, odds are this is how your intake manifold will look like. I had to use a wire brush to get all deposits off. After I put everything back together I got a CEL. (This is new) I haven't had a chance to check the code yet. Tomorrow I will. The idle has increased dramatically by 60% but unfortunately it hasn't cure my problem. REALLY a disappointment. I have spent a lot of money into this and I know I almost have it. It feels like I have a loss of power when accelerating. When I am in Neutral or Park, man I can't even hear my car. So quiet...

The only thing left that I could think of is when I was burning tons of oil, the oil ended up clogging up the exhaust system or cat. Which is why I am not getting enough back pressure when in gear. But maybe it is the transmission. When ever I do a 3 point turn it kinda jolts from D to R to D SOMETIMES. But it's not a thump like it's slamming into gear. A hear a hissing noise when I'm in gear only (exhaust and intake gaskets have been replaced). So I'm going to take it to a shop to get the exhaust checked out. If that's not the problem, I don't know where to go from here. So much for my h23 and tranny. Stolen... Input would be appreciated.

Hose

As for the TB and the weird idle GL.

Did you check your pcv valve and hose that goes to your throttle body. Give that a good spray too. Chances are thats gummed up too and not venilating your crankcase pressure.

Your oil accumulation looks normal, it was probably never cleaned since the factory.


You can get the code read but its probably due to blowing a little smoke after u started the car. After you download the code just reset the ecu.


Sounds like ur making a little bit of headway, i dont think you have a transmission problem at this point.


I really would like u to check your charging system, remeber ur car runs off the alternator. If its not putting out a lot of voltage at idle, u will idle very low or even stall.

I have a few more tricks up my sleeve but i want u to try these first. Pm me once uv tried, good luck

what engine did u exactly get? my car vibrates hella crazy as well

HondaLuver83 said:

Did you check your pcv valve and hose that goes to your throttle body. Give that a good spray too. Chances are thats gummed up too and not venilating your crankcase pressure.

Your oil accumulation looks normal, it was probably never cleaned since the factory.


You can get the code read but its probably due to blowing a little smoke after u started the car. After you download the code just reset the ecu.


Sounds like ur making a little bit of headway, i dont think you have a transmission problem at this point.


I really would like u to check your charging system, remeber ur car runs off the alternator. If its not putting out a lot of voltage at idle, u will idle very low or even stall.

I have a few more tricks up my sleeve but i want u to try these first. Pm me once uv tried, good luck

Click to expand...

Okay, so today me and my buddy went to a muffler shop to get the cat checked out. It's not clogged, nor is the exhaust system. So that is off the check list. Also the Check Engine Light was two codes. One was the vtec malfunction code. I forgot to plug in the cable for the vtec solenoid. And the famous P1456 Evap code. I reset the light, turned my gas cap 3 times and no more codes. I think the aftermarket gas cap just doesn't hold the pressure well. Not the first time I got the light. No check engine lights anymore.

Next the PCV valve. Shook it, it rattles and I feel vacuum with the engine on while the PCV valve is removed. Took the car to a few mechanics and they are pretty certain it's not a transmission problem.

Here is the weird thing. Whenever I pull on the throttle cable in the engine bay, there is a half second delay. It's not instant. Any idea? Hmm...

Last but not least. Had my alternator checked out today. Went to Autozone to have them check the voltage. My battery is fine but they said my Alternator is bad. He also said since I have a F23A1 JDM Engine (This is for you guy above me) that I need more ampage alternator. But before I told him my engine was JDM, he said my alternator was bad. (he had a snap on gauge, can't go wrong with that) We went to a shop to get a second opinion about the alternator and they said it's good. Wtf?

They want me to drop the car off all day tomorrow so they can see what it is. Charge me $120 to figure out the low idle in gear problem and delay throttle. They think my timing is off, a bad egr valve or faulty ECU. I don't know...I have no codes. If my timing was off it would shake bad when I'm not in gear. It does the same thing my old engine did.

Tomorrow I'm going to get a second opinion on the alternator at another Autozone. See what they say.

(sigh...) Input would be appreciated.

Those kids at autozone hardly know ****. Your engine is no different than a usdm version in regards to voltage requirements. Atleast, I see no reason to believe otherwise.

Get a second opinion and ask the mechanic to tell you the voltage reading at idle.


Have you tried seafoam? Use some of that in the break booster line, add some to your gas.


Have the mechanic verify all your motor mounts are in good shape just for good measure.

HondaLuver83 said:

Those kids at autozone hardly know ****. Your engine is no different than a usdm version in regards to voltage requirements. Atleast, I see no reason to believe otherwise.

Get a second opinion and ask the mechanic to tell you the voltage reading at idle.


Have you tried seafoam? Use some of that in the break booster line, add some to your gas.


Have the mechanic verify all your motor mounts are in good shape just for good measure.

Click to expand...

*Update*

Had the alternator checked out again. It's fine. No problems what so ever. So let's check that off the list.

I have never tried Seafoam in my car. I thought that was only if you don't want to take apart the intake manifold. You know what's funny? Whenever I brake, the car vibrates rough but when I let off the brake the idle increases to normal. Maybe a brake solenoid or something? I have to keep my foot on the brake pad pretty hard so the car doesn't move. Like it's engaged in gear at idle. I don't know...

Rear, front and driver's side motor mounts are about a year and half old. The transmission mount is 4 months old. The front motor mount has a small chip. But I don't think that would affect performance. Something tells me that the vacuum solenoid at the firewall on the passenger side that controls the rear motor mount's vacuum may have something to with the shaking and drop in idle.



I'm looking at part 14. Maybe is has malfunctioned to hold vacuum? Or regulate it? Maybe not. It could be the TPS sensor as well. It must be a sensor. What do you think?

I'll try the Seafoam. Is the brake booster line in the DIY here on the forums?
But if that doesn't work, and you don't have any more ideas I might have to take it to a shop. Let me know what you think Hondaluver or anyone else.

*EDIT*
Just Seafoamed my car. Didn't make any difference. Intake is already squeaky clean. Does a bad IACV give you a CEL?

redlinevtec said:

*Update*

Had the alternator checked out again. It's fine. No problems what so ever. So let's check that off the list.

I have never tried Seafoam in my car. I thought that was only if you don't want to take apart the intake manifold. You know what's funny? Whenever I brake, the car vibrates rough but when I let off the brake the idle increases to normal. Maybe a brake solenoid or something? I have to keep my foot on the brake pad pretty hard so the car doesn't move. Like it's engaged in gear at idle. I don't know...

Rear, front and driver's side motor mounts are about a year and half old. The transmission mount is 4 months old. The front motor mount has a small chip. But I don't think that would affect performance. Something tells me that the vacuum solenoid at the firewall on the passenger side that controls the rear motor mount's vacuum may have something to with the shaking and drop in idle.



I'm looking at part 14. Maybe is has malfunctioned to hold vacuum? Or regulate it? Maybe not. It could be the TPS sensor as well. It must be a sensor. What do you think?

I'll try the Seafoam. Is the brake booster line in the DIY here on the forums?
But if that doesn't work, and you don't have any more ideas I might have to take it to a shop. Let me know what you think Hondaluver or anyone else.

*EDIT*
Just Seafoamed my car. Didn't make any difference. Intake is already squeaky clean. Does a bad IACV give you a CEL?

Click to expand...

A bad idle control valve doesnt always proceeed with a check engine light. But it should eventually. The brake booster is the black round looking thing right behind the master brake cylinder. There is a hose going from that to the trottle body, you can disconnect that guy and feed seafoam through there.

There will be a lot of white smoke.


How low does your idle go anyways? are we talking below 500 rpms?


I have one more question, was your car originally ULEV ENGINE? If so, your O2 sensors are wide band and its not compatable with the normal F23 engine. You may need to look into that as well.