Very strange fuel related problem.

001Stunna said:

Somewhat true yes...mine would turn off if the key was too far back when in the on position(2nd position). In addition at times when turning from Full OFF to 2nd position at times it wouldn't catch...and i'd have to redo it for the gauge lights etc to come on.

That being said...on me testing it about 20 times it only failed twice and twice while I was driving. That was enough reason for me to change it.

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Just re-read the symptoms and it includes all gauges reading zero. I am now convinced almost 100% that it is the ignition switch. And yeah it has left me dead on the road more times then I would like to try and count. Only $54 on that website you told me so its not a big loss.

EDIT: Sorry by the way 001, your in the same boat as Racked Out. Can't leave you any more rep even though you totally deserve it man. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help from you guys.

Frisky Arab said:

Just re-read the symptoms and it includes all gauges reading zero. I am now convinced almost 100% that it is the ignition switch. And yeah it has left me dead on the road more times then I would like to try and count. Only $54 on that website you told me so its not a big loss.

EDIT: Sorry by the way 001, your in the same boat as Racked Out. Can't leave you any more rep even though you totally deserve it man. Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help from you guys.

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Check out any other local honda dealers to you, you might find it for cheaper. After all its your money so be smart with it, its the same part everywhere anyways.

HondaPartsCheap.com is just the cheapest i've found to date even after considering shipping to canada. OemAcuraParts.com is another option to checkout but everything i've checked they have for a higher cost and they charge a higher shipping rate. I inquired regarding price-matching but was told "NOT on Honda Parts" even though they claim the can PM on their site

Check this out as well before you tackle the thing
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+1998-2002+Honda+Accord+Ignition+Switch/3285/1
...and once again if you have anything connected to the ignition harness (ie. aftermarket alarm/starter) you will need to reconnect it. To do so i'd recommend stripping(DO NOT CUT IT) the wire you're going to connect to and use a toothpick(non conductive) to poke a hole through the exposed wires. Run the connecting wire in the small hole you creatd and tighten it around following addition of electrical tape/liquid electrical tape and/or solder. This way you're not disturbing the ignition wires but simply adding on. I'd recommend following the above procedure for most times when you're tapping on to electricals...using a small lighter to burn the rubber insulator to expose the inside wiring can work great IF its not a too crowded area and you don't risk burning anything else.

PS. I don't help for the rep; I do it as it was members from here who have helped me out before; plus we all drive the same damn cars and after all if you can save $$ and time by doing things yourself then why not...you get that extra level of self fulfillment and satisfaction too.

Yeah your right about that. I always feel good about myself when I fix one of my car's problems. Anyways, ordered the part, bought a multimeter yesterday, will update when I change the switch.

Well tried to start her today, and my battery is toast. Lol one thing after another after another. Still at 12.56 volts, but only 232 out of the 500 rated CCAs. Don't think this is the source of any problems, but I guess a new battery is always nice.

Frisky Arab said:

Well tried to start her today, and my battery is toast. Lol one thing after another after another. Still at 12.56 volts, but only 232 out of the 500 rated CCAs. Don't think this is the source of any problems, but I guess a new battery is always nice.

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Do you have access to a battery charger...maybe try leaving the battery hooked up to fully charge before buying a new one.

If you've had that battery for 5+ years though then a new one would be in order anyz.

001Stunna said:

Do you have access to a battery charger...maybe try leaving the battery hooked up to fully charge before buying a new one.

If you've had that battery for 5+ years though then a new one would be in order anyz.

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Nah I got hooked up by a buddy of mine today with an optima red-top for $40. With 925 CCAs it started right up. Ran fine for a little bit because the battery had been disconnected all day, but after getting warm it would start to drop idle again. Still no check engine light, but at least I got the battery out of the way. Ordered the ignition switch and I have all the confirmation and receipt emails from both the site and PayPal, but I've yet to have my account charged. Maybe if I'm lucky I got a free ignition switch too.

Frisky Arab said:

Nah I got hooked up by a buddy of mine today with an optima red-top for $40. With 925 CCAs it started right up. Ran fine for a little bit because the battery had been disconnected all day, but after getting warm it would start to drop idle again. Still no check engine light, but at least I got the battery out of the way. Ordered the ignition switch and I have all the confirmation and receipt emails from both the site and PayPal, but I've yet to have my account charged. Maybe if I'm lucky I got a free ignition switch too.

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Did you pay via credit card on paypal or bank account. If bank account paypal has a new feature where you pay after you receive the item. Unfortunately it only applies to bank account transactions and not credit card payments.

001Stunna said:

Did you pay via credit card on paypal or bank account. If bank account paypal has a new feature where you pay after you receive the item. Unfortunately it only applies to bank account transactions and not credit card payments.

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Oh that's probably it then. Yeah I paid via PayPal and had it set to transfer directly from my account. Oh well, as long as I receive it. You seem to have every piece of relevant information to me these past few days lol.

I have some input because this happened to me with my old V6. The whole random shut off problem was caused by a loose ground on the negative battery terminal. Surprising enough because I thought that originally and it wasn't even loose enough for me to pull off, so I didn't understand why it was causing the car to shut off. Just the fact that it was the slightest bit loose was enough to cause the car to shut off on me when I was driving. Sometimes it would start up again as I was rolling (scary as anything).

I fixed that by cutting a penny and putting it on the battery terminal and then tightening the connection around the terminal+penny combination. Fixed that issue.

As for low idle, that happened to me in both of my Accords. I see you cleaned the IVAC--but did you change the seal on it? Also, you might want to check your seals by the head and the upper intake manifold. Especially if they stripped a bolt when rebuilding the motor, there might be something else wrong there causing extra air to get into the system. That would cause a lot of stupid problems with any motor. Plus, could always be a vacuum leak!

joeygkb said:

I have some input because this happened to me with my old V6. The whole random shut off problem was caused by a loose ground on the negative battery terminal. Surprising enough because I thought that originally and it wasn't even loose enough for me to pull off, so I didn't understand why it was causing the car to shut off. Just the fact that it was the slightest bit loose was enough to cause the car to shut off on me when I was driving. Sometimes it would start up again as I was rolling (scary as anything).

I fixed that by cutting a penny and putting it on the battery terminal and then tightening the connection around the terminal+penny combination. Fixed that issue.

As for low idle, that happened to me in both of my Accords. I see you cleaned the IVAC--but did you change the seal on it? Also, you might want to check your seals by the head and the upper intake manifold. Especially if they stripped a bolt when rebuilding the motor, there might be something else wrong there causing extra air to get into the system. That would cause a lot of stupid problems with any motor. Plus, could always be a vacuum leak!

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I don't think that there is a leak anywhere, because the car is running rich, not lean. And yes the seal was changed after cleaning the IACV. Not that my old one was bad, but I had already ordered a new one so might as well. Not so sure about the loose ground either, because its been doing this for a while now through multiple batteries, and usually it doesn't start back up right away after dying.