1998 accord engine running rich

Swap Accord

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I changed the engine in my 98 accord f23a1 (stock) and started it up but it runs too rich. so rich that when i step on the peddle it will go to about 3000 rpms and then wants to die. if i let off it will go back to idle and be fine. just when i press the gas it will bog down and die. I have the exact same problem as another guy on this form and i stole his thread. this is jimmyimmy post.

"Okay so I have a 98' Accord that I blew the motor in, so i bought another scrap car and swapped it's motor out with my bad one. I'm pretty good mechanically so I've tried basically everything I thought of, and everything i've seen online. The car will start fine with no hesitation and idles fine as well, but when you give it gas it will hesitate, and sputter almost before it gains rpms, and when I try to back it out of the garage it will stall unless I play with the gas pedal to keep the RPM's above 2000. I know there is a knock sensor broken in the back of the motor, I have one ordered for it, but my question is will that sensor cause all this? or should I be looking for other issues?
I've changed over the throttle body with a good one, along with the TPS sensor, IAC valve. and it had no effect on the car what so ever.
I've changed the plug wires, and checked the plugs, they were black ( running rich as expected ). I've changed the o2 sensor.
I have a complete tear down and rebuild manual for the car, it shows how to get the codes from the car, so I went ahead and got them off of it. I've cleared and re checked them a few times and mainly It's coding for Vtec Malfunction, and a MAP sensor at times. I need the car to get back and forth to work, so I'm in need of any guidance anyone can give me ASAP please, if you need any more information ask away. Thanks for any help you can give !"

I've already check all the obvious such as fuel pressure, sensors, catalytic converter. im hoping someone has had the same problem and can point me in the right direction. also I did change the knock sensor for a good one.
 
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BlkCurrantKord

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Did you adjust the TPS sensor when you swapped it out? You have to manually adjust it so it reads the correct voltage for close, partial, and WO throttle. I can't remember how off the top of my head but's it's a rather simple process with the use of a multimeter.


I was going to suggest swap the connectors on the TPS and MAP sensors until I saw you replace the TPS sensor itself. The reason being, the MAP and TPS use the same connector, just different colors and it's easy to confuse the two when putting things back together.
 
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