xi0utlawstarix
Well-Known Member
Get a Go NoGo feeler gauge
Valve Clearance
- Thread starter Accord123
- Start date
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
Awesome write up, and great pics! I will probably be doing this myself real soon!
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
At the parts store rigjt now posting from my phone. Does anybody knkw what size the feeler / shims are?
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
You're probably long gone from the parts store but just in case when you go back lol
i4
Intake: 0.26 mm (0.010 in.)±0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
Exhaust: 0.30 mm (0.012 in.)±0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)
v6
Intake: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
I was way long gone at that point. But, I picked up what I think will work. Package is still at home unopened. And based on what you're saying there, I'm good! 
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
Yep, those look good.
I find the sets like the one you are holding, with the screwed together shims, are very handy, allowing you to remove the shims and use them individually. Just don't loose one in the engine somewhere - I think that would be hard, but not impossible to do!
So for the inlets use the .008" to set the gap, then check to make sure you can't get the .009" in. Same for the exhaust, just use .012" as the "go" and .013" as the "no go". The exhaust gaps are bigger because the exhaust valve gets hotter and expands more than the inlet.
Just for fun, make a table of the gaps before you set them, it would be good practice in the use of the feelers. It can be hard to get the feeler in line with the gap, as some of the approach angles are awkward, but the light sliding force is the thing you are after.
I find the sets like the one you are holding, with the screwed together shims, are very handy, allowing you to remove the shims and use them individually. Just don't loose one in the engine somewhere - I think that would be hard, but not impossible to do!
So for the inlets use the .008" to set the gap, then check to make sure you can't get the .009" in. Same for the exhaust, just use .012" as the "go" and .013" as the "no go". The exhaust gaps are bigger because the exhaust valve gets hotter and expands more than the inlet.
Just for fun, make a table of the gaps before you set them, it would be good practice in the use of the feelers. It can be hard to get the feeler in line with the gap, as some of the approach angles are awkward, but the light sliding force is the thing you are after.
Last edited:
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
cool beans. Now, which one is the intake and which one is the exhaust? Or is that in your link that I just didn't see?
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
You have this picture, but you don't say which one is the intake and which one is the exhaust. Is it ones closest to the intake manifold that are the intake valves or are those the exhaust valves? I imagine it'll be the same for the other side.
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
You have this picture, but you don't say which one is the intake and which one is the exhaust. Is it ones closest to the intake manifold that are the intake valves or are those the exhaust valves? I imagine it'll be the same for the other side.
In your picture you've got
::Rear::
Exhaust
Intake
Intake
Exhaust
::Front::
These are the inlets
REMEMBER - to see the words with the pictures, you have to scroll down and on the right hand side - open up the MEDIA INFO drop down arrow.
I create these guides using a different method now - using powerpoint, so the words can't get lost
REMEMBER - to see the words with the pictures, you have to scroll down and on the right hand side - open up the MEDIA INFO drop down arrow.
I create these guides using a different method now - using powerpoint, so the words can't get lost
