results of the mission to get 150whp

so i finally got around to the dyno to see what gains i got from my new mods which are:
- port and polish head
- milled the head
- 5 angle valve job
- port matching the runnings of both intake and exhaust
- bored out throttle body
- intake manifold port and polish and port matched with the throttle body and the head
- akimoto 3" short ram intake with custom heat shield
- DC headers
- hayame catback exhaust
- AEM adjustable cam gear
- denso iridium and NGK spark plugs and wires
- stock honda SE alloys with 205/60/15
- VAFC I

my previous mods were:
- akimoto 3" short ram intake with custom heat shield
- DC headers
- hayame exhaust
- AEM pulleys
- denso iridium and NGK spark plugs and wires
- rota slpstreams with 205/40/16 falken azenis
- VAFC I
Here is the dyno for the previous bolt on mods.

120whp, 119wtq

here is the dyno with all the mods adding together


129whp,122wtq

the numbers for before tuning suppose to be a little lower because the dyno read the spike. the dyno is a mustang dyno which supposely reads lower than like dynojets.
tuning got 6 more whp but i got less tq. but i think the guy wanted to get more area underneath the curve for more useable power.
i am kind of disappointed when i got my car back from the dyno. cause it had lost that "kick" feeling when vtec kicked in. but with the new tune, vtec engages at a lower rpm (3600 rpm) compared to the old tune (4500 rpm). also, with all those new stuff i only really gained 10whp which kind of disappointed me too. i was aiming for at least 135whp...maybe wishful thinking? the tune guy also said that my numbers are a tad low since the motor got heat soaked at the last runs.
i was wondering if aem pulleys and the different tires profile sizes would affect my numbers greatly or not? 205/40/16 are small as heck but would they affect the dyno numbers? if so, then i should get more whp then right? and i took out the aem pulleys cause the shop had to switch out my alternator and they forgot to put the aem ones back on and i didn't have time to put it back in. i figured they might help but i don't know how much. figured probably at most 1-3whp.
at least now my A/F ratio is nice and even, cause before my A/F ratio was all over the place and now it's a bit more even. i was running really rich at idle and then really lean at the high end.
i feel the car has more low end and easier to pick up speed...and when i put in the tb and IM (i did these last), my car actually got quieter...i don't know why but it did; even my friend said so. but like i stated above...i miss the feeling of vtec giving my the kick...i might switch the vtec engangment point higher up to see what happens later.
i am done modding my car for a long while cause this project took way longer and more money then it was suppose to...this was suppose to be a summer project. i continued with the project cause i was curious and i wanted to help out the honda community...to answers questions about a N/A build on the f23 motor. enjoy.

thanks for picking up where I left off and those numbers arent bad at all, I got like 120 on a hub dyno. 130 on a mustang dyno should be like 135-140 on a dynojet, which is like 160-170 bhp. thats not bad at all

but to get in the 150+ whp territor you can add all the mods you want but the fact that you have an auto you wont get the same whp gains as you would with a manual.

you still have the stock cat, thats impeding all the flow you gained with your head boring, the dc header doesent add anything (that ive felt at least), and a vafc tune is very limited, cant tune timing etc, and you dont need that cam gear cause its useless with a stock cam.

Also with NA setups, from what ive learned, it all comes down to big cams, bumped up compression, good header, and good tune.

If I could do it again, this is the setup id go if I wanted serious power.

manual swap
bolt ons
test pipe
bored head
cam regrind
obd1 conversion and chipped

and aem pullies dont add sh*t, stock accesory pullies weigh next to nothing stock, they cant get much lighter. Crank pulley, now thats a different story.

forget the engine man, the tranny will always be your achillies. switch that out then youll be in business.

interesting look at an na build. im guessing you have an auto? if not, the numbers are a little low, but as you said, different dynos read differently, so dont worry. its about how the car feels... does it feel faster? does it feel like you have more low end or top end? mid range power???

either way, its a very respectable mod list and id be proud of it! and about the pulleys, i know my friend loves them, he installed them on his del sol and said it made a world of difference, although idk how much that really is, but it worth a try, i think itll net you like 2-5hp probably. lastly, i think part of the reason your car may have given some low numbers was your method for tuning... now im not saying go out and convert to obd1, but if you were running a socketed ecu where your tuner could tune every aspect of the car, i think youd maybe gain some more hp. if you want to gain more fairly cheaply, theres a few things you can do, but some will make your car fail an emissions test...

you can remove your EGR. it recirculates gasses into the engine to be burned off for emisisons purposes, you just take the thing off and put a plate over the hole, itll throw a code, but idk how it effects the obd2 ecu, shouldnt do anything at all.

you can bypass the coolant line to the throttle. dont do this if you live in cold weather since its used to heat up the TB. in hot weather, this increases your intake temperature and can gain like 1hp and its free!

run a test pipe. pretty simple, youll get about 5hp from that, but a magnafglow metal catalyst catalytic converter will gain you 4hp about, and its legal.

theres other stuff but those are just easy things to do. just some ideas keep up the good work and dont give up!

and yes, trannny swap = whp. when i drive my car with no boost, as in my intercooler pipes are blown off LOL, and even on a crappy tune, i can still roast tires with my 5spd. youll be shocked how fast the car feels, i was. if you were to turbocharge your car now, man, youd be set. youd be making another 20-30hp on top of what im making and probably a lot more torque. youve set yourself up for quite the turbo build, if that gives you any ideas about what to do next

i would do the 5-spd swap but it takes too much money and effort. have to swap out a lot of stuff and i don't think it's worth it. rather just buy a car with a 5-spd stock. since i think the accord 5-spd is fast already...even a stock accord. plus...my experiment can give the auto guys some reference.
i think the car is faster...but more linear. there is no kick but power throughout the powerband...yea i miss the kick...probably should get a turbo then.
the tune guy retarded my timing with the cam gear..i don't know if that is correct but it feels pretty fast. and that damn bastard didn't put back on the cam gear cover and it looks like a bitch to put that back...is it? i haven't tried yet...probably later today i'll try it.
and i can't run test pipe since i'm in cali and i need a cat for sure. and i doesn't a high flow cat make the car louder...i don't really want to attract attention from the police here who are just annoying (they pulled me over to freaking light as heck front window tint) i already did the coolant bypass swap. obd I, again with cali. i was going to get more aggressive cam but decided against it since it would have cost more money and more time with the build.
do you think my tires would have made any difference? because with the thinner profile tires, the car revved so much faster...very noticable.
the main goal was to see how the f23 would perform with a mild internal build and bolt ons...and to take on theaccordian's mission.

Big power comes with big money...go turbo

that's pretty badass right there.
my only question is this, you used VAFC to tune your VTEC engagement point?
i'm asking because on APEXi's website i said VAFC wouldn't work on F23 engines because of the difference in how those VTEC works compared to others.

you know what...apexi are weird. the f23 ecu is the same as the h22. so just use the same wiring diagram exactly and you're done. at first i didn't use it exactly and i ran into the problem of my ECU going into limp mode where it won't let you rev over 4k rpm. but then my friend figured out that they are exactly the same and viola...it works perfectly.
and i used the VAFC to do the A/F ratio and vtec engagement point.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/24.pdf

use WH-3 diagram. make sure you install the vtm wire.

i get you but i'm still confused. on the apexi manual (your link is to the "update") there is an install for the F23.

but then again like i said, APEXi said VAFC won't work on 4 cylinder accords
FAQ

i was planning on using a Harness once i can afford it anyways, but the point is, APEXi says it wont work but you're driving proof that it does.

FallenAngelHIM said:

i get you but i'm still confused. on the apexi manual (your link is to the "update") there is an install for the F23.

but then again like i said, APEXi said VAFC won't work on 4 cylinder accords
FAQ

i was planning on using a Harness once i can afford it anyways, but the point is, APEXi says it wont work but you're driving proof that it does.

Click to expand...

my updated one only has civic, integras, and preludes. again...apexi is weird and they didn't list the f23..even though it's the same wiring diagram as the wh-3.