F23a1 Honda Accord: Running Rich & Stalls

jimmyimmy

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Okay so I have a 98' Accord that I blew the motor in, so i bought another scrap car and swapped it's motor out with my bad one. I'm pretty good mechanically so I've tried basically everything I thought of, and everything i've seen online. The car will start fine with no hesitation and idles fine as well, but when you give it gas it will hesitate, and sputter almost before it gains rpms, and when I try to back it out of the garage it will stall unless I play with the gas pedal to keep the RPM's above 2000. I know there is a knock sensor broken in the back of the motor, I have one ordered for it, but my question is will that sensor cause all this? or should I be looking for other issues?
I've changed over the throttle body with a good one, along with the TPS sensor, IAC valve. and it had no effect on the car what so ever.
I've changed the plug wires, and checked the plugs, they were black ( running rich as expected ). I've changed the o2 sensor.
I have a complete tear down and rebuild manual for the car, it shows how to get the codes from the car, so I went ahead and got them off of it. I've cleared and re checked them a few times and mainly It's coding for Vtec Malfunction, and a MAP sensor at times. I need the car to get back and forth to work, so I'm in need of any guidance anyone can give me ASAP please, if you need any more information ask away. Thanks for any help you can give !
 

001Stunna

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Okay so I have a 98' Accord that I blew the motor in, so i bought another scrap car and swapped it's motor out with my bad one. I'm pretty good mechanically so I've tried basically everything I thought of, and everything i've seen online. The car will start fine with no hesitation and idles fine as well, but when you give it gas it will hesitate, and sputter almost before it gains rpms, and when I try to back it out of the garage it will stall unless I play with the gas pedal to keep the RPM's above 2000. I know there is a knock sensor broken in the back of the motor, I have one ordered for it, but my question is will that sensor cause all this? or should I be looking for other issues?
I've changed over the throttle body with a good one, along with the TPS sensor, IAC valve. and it had no effect on the car what so ever.
I've changed the plug wires, and checked the plugs, they were black ( running rich as expected ). I've changed the o2 sensor.
I have a complete tear down and rebuild manual for the car, it shows how to get the codes from the car, so I went ahead and got them off of it. I've cleared and re checked them a few times and mainly It's coding for Vtec Malfunction, and a MAP sensor at times. I need the car to get back and forth to work, so I'm in need of any guidance anyone can give me ASAP please, if you need any more information ask away. Thanks for any help you can give !

Why do people run cars with broken sensors and assume that it wont cause drivability problems??? Its there for a god-damn reason. If the car did not need it, it wouldnt be there.
With all due respect, if you were mechanically inclined enough to swap the engine over...why the flip did you not replace the knock sensor when you saw it broken/not there???

Google "Knock sensor symptoms" and you get
The vehicle will often shake or vibrate and misfire when the engine is started. The engine may emit strong exhaust and burning smells due to the detonation in the cylinders. Fuel economy is often affected, causing the vehicle to burn more gas than usual and requiring frequent fuel replenishment. Also, your vehicle may display acceleration problems, such as dragging, hesitation or jerking from the engine during speed increases.
 

jimmyimmy

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Sounds like someone is having a bad day.. haha ahh yesss if you read through it before jumping to the conclusion that I am an idiot, you would have seen that I have one ordered, and my question was, will the issues i'm having all be caused by this sensor? or should I look for other issues while I wait for the sensor to come in?

BUT thank you for clearing that up for me, it must have been really hard to type with your head so far up your ***.
 

001Stunna

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Sounds like someone is having a bad day.. haha ahh yesss if you read through it before jumping to the conclusion that I am an idiot, you would have seen that I have one ordered, and my question was, will the issues i'm having all be caused by this sensor? or should I look for other issues while I wait for the sensor to come in?

BUT thank you for clearing that up for me, it must have been really hard to type with your head so far up your ***.

You sir, are the true definition of an idiot.
You claim you swapped an engine and are good mechanically when it comes to things...but yet you are stupid and dumb enough to not realize that you threw money on parts when what you needed was that knock sensor you broke off probably when swapping the engine over. Dumb enough not to know how to use the search function on a forum or freaking google.

I hope you blow this engine too...seems like it wasnt the first motors fault for blowing anyways but the idiot driver.

PS. You're welcome :) :ugh2:
 

jimmyimmy

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Rattling cages, haha I like it. FYI, I didn't " throw parts " at this, nor did I blow the first motor, I bought the car for $100 and have still yet to break 600 including the parts car I bought. Anyway we could continue this for a while, but i'm not the type to hide behind computers so I wont, it was funny at first but I'll stop now before you make yourself look any worse, lol. Thanks for your input though, greatly appreciated. Let's keep this about cars from now on shall we?.. But before we do, one last thing, People like you are the reason site's like these get bad names and reviews. A senior member starting an arguement with a junior member because he skimmed over the junior members post and automatically assumed he would go about it the wrong way, which I didn't. I might be a " junior member " on this site but I am a skilled mechanic and the fact that you comment on this, " calling people out " on things that they don't even say or do wrong, just shows that your the type of person that was never accepted in real life so you have to talk down to others over the Internet. I won't deprive you of the one thing in your life that gives you self accomplishment. Again, thanks for the info on the knock sensor, great help : )
 

001Stunna

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Rattling cages, haha I like it. FYI, I didn't " throw parts " at this, nor did I blow the first motor, I bought the car for $100 and have still yet to break 600 including the parts car I bought. Anyway we could continue this for a while, but i'm not the type to hide behind computers so I wont, it was funny at first but I'll stop now before you make yourself look any worse, lol. Thanks for your input though, greatly appreciated. Let's keep this about cars from now on shall we?.. But before we do, one last thing, People like you are the reason site's like these get bad names and reviews. A senior member starting an arguement with a junior member because he skimmed over the junior members post and automatically assumed he would go about it the wrong way, which I didn't. I might be a " junior member " on this site but I am a skilled mechanic and the fact that you comment on this, " calling people out " on things that they don't even say or do wrong, just shows that your the type of person that was never accepted in real life so you have to talk down to others over the Internet. I won't deprive you of the one thing in your life that gives you self accomplishment. Again, thanks for the info on the knock sensor, great help : )

tumblr_m7dgawg5v11qhymeq.jpg

:duckhunt:
 

Swap Accord

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Okay so I have a 98' Accord that I blew the motor in, so i bought another scrap car and swapped it's motor out with my bad one. I'm pretty good mechanically so I've tried basically everything I thought of, and everything i've seen online. The car will start fine with no hesitation and idles fine as well, but when you give it gas it will hesitate, and sputter almost before it gains rpms, and when I try to back it out of the garage it will stall unless I play with the gas pedal to keep the RPM's above 2000. I know there is a knock sensor broken in the back of the motor, I have one ordered for it, but my question is will that sensor cause all this? or should I be looking for other issues?
I've changed over the throttle body with a good one, along with the TPS sensor, IAC valve. and it had no effect on the car what so ever.
I've changed the plug wires, and checked the plugs, they were black ( running rich as expected ). I've changed the o2 sensor.
I have a complete tear down and rebuild manual for the car, it shows how to get the codes from the car, so I went ahead and got them off of it. I've cleared and re checked them a few times and mainly It's coding for Vtec Malfunction, and a MAP sensor at times. I need the car to get back and forth to work, so I'm in need of any guidance anyone can give me ASAP please, if you need any more information ask away. Thanks for any help you can give !
Hey, i know this is an old post but i literally have the exact same problem as you. I swapped the engine with a good one and I changed the knock sensor and everything else checks out it just runs really rich. No codes either. Did you happen to find problem with yours
 

Swap Accord

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Juat incase someone has this exact same problem. I figured it out. It was the tps and map sensors plugs were switched. The best way to check on the 98 accord is the blue plug goes on the tps sensor and the grey plug on the map. Both are on the throttle body.
 
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