Post your setup ver. Update ver. Big Ballas

AFAccord

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you have some decent gear but you are not really utilizing the components to their full potential "bouncing them off the glass"... You lose a lot of detail... If you are a control freak you can tune it so its not as sharp (if they are).

Some people like to use a 1/3rd octave EQ to fine tune their system, creating a perfectly smooth response curve, as well as dialing in time alignment to compensate for the higher frequencies which travel faster. All this effort usually results in a setup that sounds like *** to most listerners.

Bouncing the tweeters off the window, creates a natural delay of the frequencies they produce, disperses their sound, making them less harsh, and also broadens the sound stage. None of which can be done by an EQ. In the words of Totalimmortal, "a tweeter that reveals its position is completely useless".
 

lyttleviet

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You can use that logic if you like but in all the sound quality oriented vehicles I have been in the tweets are usually in pods or mounted towards the person... I have had experience with BOTH tweeter placements for YEARS with many very high end setups and I can vouch that any one of those tweeters in the A pillar sounded WAY better than those bouncing off the glass. Every time I drove my car to a legitimate audio shop in town, they always said "you arent using your component set to its fullest potential"... I didn't understand until I moved my tweeter.

That natural delay also causes you to lose a lot of your detail... Have you ever just taped both of your tweeters to your A pillar and listened? If not, give it a try, you wont be disappointed.

Don't start again. You know what I mean.

I am not starting anything....???.... If it wasn't WAY off I wouldn't have mentioned it. I tune my sub to play ~80hz and below.... and my boxes (the ones that are ported) are tuned to no higher than 35hz unless going for SPL figures.
 
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AFAccord

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What, do you just enjoy instigating **** with otheres??

I've COMPETED in SQ. I've COMPETED in dB Drag. Yes, I've installed $900+ components in my doors and A pilars. I've time aligned my cars, spent hours tuning the entire spectrum response. And I KNOW what these setups sound like. They suck for real-world use, ie. listening to music.

I've been there, done that, as I'm sure several people here have, and formed my own opinion. I don't need you, or your 'audio shops in town' to tell ME what sounds good. :nutswinger:

You posted your list, now let it go.
 

cliffsta

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Well, keep in mind, they're low passed pretty high at the amp (3Khz) just to keep the highs out, but also on a high pass at the headunit (usually 80hz, but 125hz if I wanna crank it up). :thumbsup: Just one of the MANY details in the setup. Like i said, I'm a control freak...

That's interesting. I've never heard of Massive Audio so IDK how their 6x9s sound and work. I like having full-frequency rear fill. My 6.5s in the doors are high-passed at 80hz because they start to sound like arse below that. But at 80hz they are great and the factory tweeters fill well... I have MY 6x9s at 50hz HPF, again Pioneer, but I have the gain turned down slightly so they don't distort. They are starting to show their age (almost two years of abuse) but they sound OK. I just wish they didin't sound so harsh down around the 50hz where they cut out. Other than that they SCREAM the midrange and highs.

Its all personal preference, really. And I understand the control freak part of the audio setup. I wanna tweak my stuff as much as possible to make it sound better.
 

Hush

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My car is gone now cuase of an accident but what i had was:
HU: alpine CDA 9855
Speakers: JL XR 6.5 fronts and no rears
Amps: JL slash amps 300/4 that was powering both fronts
Amps: JL slash 500/1 mono
Sub IDq 10 with s ported box in back of my driver sit. found a box small enough to fit where the leg room was, and snice i didn't drive anyone else besides myself, i just made my 5 seater into a 3.5 seater =)
 

lyttleviet

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What, do you just enjoy instigating **** with otheres??

I've COMPETED in SQ. I've COMPETED in dB Drag. Yes, I've installed $900+ components in my doors and A pilars. I've time aligned my cars, spent hours tuning the entire spectrum response. And I KNOW what these setups sound like. They suck for real-world use, ie. listening to music.

I've been there, done that, as I'm sure several people here have, and formed my own opinion. I don't need you, or your 'audio shops in town' to tell ME what sounds good. :nutswinger:

You posted your list, now let it go.

I wasn't instigating anything, just having a debate about where to place tweeters but way to get your panties in a bunch. Would you like to E-fight?:omgbd:

P.S. - what 900 dollar components did you use?

My car is gone now cuase of an accident but what i had was:
HU: alpine CDA 9855
Speakers: JL XR 6.5 fronts and no rears
Amps: JL slash amps 300/4 that was powering both fronts
Amps: JL slash 500/1 mono
Sub IDq 10 with s ported box in back of my driver sit. found a box small enough to fit where the leg room was, and snice i didn't drive anyone else besides myself, i just made my 5 seater into a 3.5 seater =)

That system sounds nice man... I liked the 9855 even though people complained about the glidetouch... Those amps are solid although I ran into some problems with the 300/4 that 500/1 will give you WAY more power than you expect ;).
 
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Totalimmortal

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Whats awesome is that the off-the-shelf Q-Logic sealed 10" box is 0.65 cu/ft. The Type-R 10 requires a 0.65 cu/ft gross internal volume. That box is dead perfect for the sub.
 
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