uhhkilleez
Well-Known Member
Would a can of that carb cleaner work too? Seems simple enough.
Car threw a code.
- Thread starter 00Txcoupe
- Start date
LeBirdNest
Titleist
Yes, use carb cleaner.
My code is still on. Havent gotteb around to getting a new sensor yet. I will replace the gasket at my rear port of the j pipe this weekend. I doubt thats fully the problem because i havent replaced my o2 censors since ive had the car. Lol
My code is still on. Havent gotteb around to getting a new sensor yet. I will replace the gasket at my rear port of the j pipe this weekend. I doubt thats fully the problem because i havent replaced my o2 censors since ive had the car. Lol
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
P0420 is for cat.converter under threshold.
What it means is your ECU believes your cat.converter is performing below its minimum standard. It does so by looking at the data the o2 sensor is feeding to the ECU.
What you need to do is use a live data reader and monitor the rear o2. If its signal is frozen whether rich or lean and shows no movement at all...then your o2 has taken a crapper. If the o2 shows movement however(similar to that of the front but much less variance) than your o2 is fine and your cat.converter is simply not performing up to the ECU standards.
What you can do is...add a spark plug defouler to move the o2 a tad away of exhaust stream and fool it into thinking the converter is working properly..hence avoiding the cel code.
or
Replace the cat.converter...but unless its clogged and restricted i'd just add the defouler so if a new code pops up on your car you will know and not just think "oh well its the converter code only"
PS> seeing that you've already replaced the converter using the magnaflow one. was it the universal brand or oem direct fit one?
If universal then 99% its due to your converter. I've tested and used 3 different kind of aftermarket converters and all of them have thrown the code within 2-3weeks. This is due to the fact that many aftermarket converters are not washed with the same amount of precious metals as OEM converters are. They still pass emissions with no troubles though.
What it means is your ECU believes your cat.converter is performing below its minimum standard. It does so by looking at the data the o2 sensor is feeding to the ECU.
What you need to do is use a live data reader and monitor the rear o2. If its signal is frozen whether rich or lean and shows no movement at all...then your o2 has taken a crapper. If the o2 shows movement however(similar to that of the front but much less variance) than your o2 is fine and your cat.converter is simply not performing up to the ECU standards.
What you can do is...add a spark plug defouler to move the o2 a tad away of exhaust stream and fool it into thinking the converter is working properly..hence avoiding the cel code.
or
Replace the cat.converter...but unless its clogged and restricted i'd just add the defouler so if a new code pops up on your car you will know and not just think "oh well its the converter code only"
PS> seeing that you've already replaced the converter using the magnaflow one. was it the universal brand or oem direct fit one?
If universal then 99% its due to your converter. I've tested and used 3 different kind of aftermarket converters and all of them have thrown the code within 2-3weeks. This is due to the fact that many aftermarket converters are not washed with the same amount of precious metals as OEM converters are. They still pass emissions with no troubles though.
Last edited:
LeBirdNest
Titleist
I had this code before i replaced my cat with and aftermarket highflow one, so im thinking my problem lies at the sensor which hasnt been replaced in a long time. Also i have a leak at the j pipe manifold so once i replace those two things and it still doesnt solve the problem, i will check for a hole in the piping and put my old cat back on because its still good.
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
Maybe replace the leak in the jpipe first. & test your o2 with a live data reader and see if the CEL still happens. If the o2 shows proper oscillation though then replacing it would be pointless unless you just wannat blow the cash on it.
The money you spend on a rear o2, you could use on a front o2 that actually affects your engine fuel trims or just leave it in your wallet
LeBirdNest
Titleist
See what happened was... i replaced the headers with racing headers, scraped them up really bad because the header manifold was longer than the stock ones, took them off, went back to stock and used an old gasket because i had don this all quickly. So now theres a leak. The code was there before seapping anything, including the cat. So my gut says its the o2 censor. So, i need to fix the leak anyways you know cause it stinks lol and ill replace the sensor as well since i found one online for 20$. If that doesnt work, ill back the sensor out a tad.
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
What sensor are you replacing it with?
I'm hoping its a denso or ngk...as the universal crimp wire ones and bosch are known to be little bishes when put together with hondas.
LeBirdNest
Titleist
Neither. A cheapo from prim choice sensors
001Stunna
Well-Known Member
Hope it wasnt this logo on their auction
...cause if it was their parts are knockoff non-tested china crap. You're better off running the broken OE sensor then their "new" china sensor.
LeBirdNest
Titleist
Yea thats them! Lol ill try it and if it works for a week just so i can get inspected so be it. Im in a pinch and my inspections up this month. Lol
