Dies on acceleration after new plugs and wires

02 Accord 4 cyl.....I had new back brakes and plugs and wires put on 2 days ago. It was running fine prior to this, I already knew it needed new TPS because it threw code and would act sluggish on hard acceleration. I tried to drive away from shop and it would barely go. The mechanic said you gotta get new TPS. I did and nothing, it was still acting sluggish. He said needs new rotor and distributor cap. Nothing. It was now stalling so badly, we couldn't drive it at all. Replaced MAP sensor, Checked gap on plugs, firing order, battery, alternator. Nothing. Code reader says P0560--low voltage reading....please help, it's my only source of transportation...

DTC P0560: ECM/PCM Back up Circuit Low Voltage


NOTE: If the No. 13 CLOCK BACK UP (7.5A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box is removed and the engine is started, the MIL will come on and the ECM/PCM will store DTC P0560

General Description
The engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) constantly draws power for the memory to make backup
copies of the data such as the DTCs, the freeze frame data and so on. If there is an open or a short in the power supply
circuit for backing up the ECM/PCM, the data stored in the memory is erased when the ignition switch is turned off.
If the VBU voltage is a set value or less for a specified time period, the ECM/PCM detects a malfunction and stores a DTC.
Monitor Execution, Sequence, Duration, DTC Type
Enable Conditions
Malfunction Threshold
The back-up power supply voltage (at the VBU terminal of the ECM/PCM) is 6.0 V or less for at least 2 seconds when the



Diagnosis Details
Conditions for illuminating the MIL
When a malfunction is detected, the MIL comes on and the DTC and the freeze frame data are stored in the ECM/PCM
memory.
Conditions for clearing the MIL
The MIL will be cleared if the malfunction does not recur during three consecutive trips in which the diagnostic runs.
The MIL, the DTC, and the freeze frame data can be cleared by using the scan tool Clear command or by disconnecting the
battery.

Please tell me what that means in lame man's terms. It sounds like your telling me to replace the fuse and how to clear the code after. But does that have anything to do with my car not running correctly?

Did you calipbrate the TPS after you replaced it?

The data for the fuse is a common (non-fault) condition causing that code to light the MIL. If that's the only condition causing it, then replacing the fuse should clear the fault condition, and the MIL will go out (Apparently, after 3 trips running the engine long enough to run diagnostics.)

Of course, if there is another reason for the fault, like actual low voltage, a broken connector or other, then whatever that problem is could cause other issues.

I would suggest that you re-check TPS callibration. There ought to be service specifications for the TPS. make sure that it properly records closed throttle, and has appropriate values for idle to WOT.

Probably not the case, but check that your new wires are firmly connected at both cap and plug. A loose wire will do all kinds of weird things to the spark. Triple check firing order. While you're at it, check ignition timing, too.

Check voltage at the ECU. If I recall, the ECU should be in the center console. Check actual voltage at the ECU power pins both with the ignition off and with it on.

Could be worthwhile to check that you're getting appropriate fuel to the cylinders as well. If you pull those plugs how to they look? There shouldn't be MUCH change after only a short while running, but you should be able to tell if you're getting ignition at all, if it's really rich, or lean. Have you put a gauge on to check fuel pressure?

So far, with parts replaced, it sounds like your mechanic (or you) is taking the shotgun approach to troubleshooting, and just replacing stuff that "might be it." I'd suggest that it's a better idea to test things and figure out what "it" really is.

I assume he did, I will ask. but it was doing this prior to replacing the tps but after the plugs and wires were replaced. There was soot looking black all over the brand new plugs when we took them out to check the gap.

Well, soot = rich mixture, which would have problems. A disconnected vacuum line to a fuel pressure regulator could do something like that, bumping up fuel pressure by 8-10 PSI at idle.

I suppose that soot could also be low compression, if the plugs weren't seating, but it'd have to be pretty bad.

Poor spark from a bad connection of the wires to the cap or to the plugs could do some stuff with that, too. Lots of misfires until the mix gets rich enough to almost diesel. Or just completely inappropriate spark plugs. Do you still have the old plugs? Maybe try them.