Outfitting a 98 Accord LX Sedan

bwizard · Aug 24, 2012

schmiddr2 said:
I would not even bother with the rear speakers unless you just want it that little bit louder.

If you want to save space and money is not tight, then have a shop make you a fiberglass enclosure for the corner of the trunk ($300-500). Easily fit a good 12" and have room for you clubs. Like an SSA GCON-12 or an Type R or one of the hundreds of other subs that would work.

As for amps, 1500W is great if you want tons of bass, but 500W is plenty for enjoying the music. If you want a bass machine I understand.

If 500W is enough, then a 5-channel would save space. Like the Alpine PDX-V9 . This would not require the big 3, just a standard 4ga wiring kit.

As for install, since the tweets swivel I would put them in the sail panels. Might have to fabricate a mounting baffle, but that should not be hard at all. And for the mids, you need to make a baffle to mount them because they do not mount to the OEM locations. While you have the door off you should cover/seal the holes in the door to improve the speakers performance and sound.

EDIT: To give you an idea of the fiberglass enclosure and where to mount the amps I uploaded some pics: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/album.php?albumid=843

Did you make that enclosure? I like the look of that. I actually have a good bit of cloth and resin left over from a boat project I finished up earlier in the year.....I need to mark out the dimensions of a 2 speaker box in the trunk and see how much trunk space Im really willing to give up. I dont really need a bass machine, just good clean sound. You're thinking I can do that with the 5 channel amp and one 12'' sub?

What do you mean by making a baffle for the mids. My understanding from crutchfield is that I just need to cut out the back of the factory "basket" to allow for a bit more depth out of the new alpines.

Valet · Aug 24, 2012

You can still get two golf bags in your trunk with two tens... Just saying haha

I have a single ten in my trunk that's the same depth as a dual box, and I get my and my brothers bags in all the time. Just make sure you have sub bars or something protecting it and you're good to go. And the sub setup I put up earlier will make your car a bass machine, pushing between 550-600 watts rms to each sub. But you could obviously keep the subs setting down until you want to show it off, of course. Also, the big three wiring kit isn't to allow your speakers to draw the power it needs, it can always do that, it's to stabilize your electrical system so that the amps don't rob everything else in your car of power. So, do the big three regardless. With just one amp, I need to do it lol

bwizard · Aug 24, 2012

Roger that on the big three....from the research I did, I think its a good idea too..... I like your recomendations on the system..... I just want to be clear on the amp set up, you're saying run an amp for the subs and a separate for the speakers....right??? Or is there a 5channel Alpine I should look at that would combine everything?

Btw, any fit issues you know of installing the fronts? I was under the impression I just had to do a bit of cutting on the factory "basket" to get the Alpine SPR - 60's to fit.

Valet · Aug 24, 2012

There's no 5 channel that could handle that. So yeah, two separate. And the speakers are 6.5" and 6x9" right? If that's the case they will work and fit like a glove. Just get a reel of half inch rubber deadening, the stuff that's sticky and flexible so you can line the area between the speakers and where they get bolted down to, to prevent rattling and keep clean sound.

SykVSyx · Aug 24, 2012

If you are trying to have a budget minded system, then run a D-Class amp, which is designed to run your speakers/sub(s).

schmiddr2 · Aug 24, 2012

I always worry about the little 80A alternators' ability to keep up with anything getting close to 1500W. That's why class D and smaller wattage is generally going to not over draw on the electrical system. Although, there are high output alternators if you ever have problems.

As for the front speakers, you don't need to cut anything. You have 2.5" of top mount depth. The basket on the Alpines is perfect because of how shallow they are; so make a 1/2" to 5/8" speaker ring/baffle and center them correctly with the OEM opening. Won't bump window or the door panel although I did take a ball-peen hammer and round over the sheet metal lip around the OEM speaker opening. But for all that is good about sound, seal the holes in your front doors! Like this:

bwizard · Aug 24, 2012

A picture....1000 words..... thanks a lot. :omgbd:

bwizard · Aug 25, 2012

Ordered some supplies......

Alpine MRX-M110 amp
(2) Alpine SWR-1023D subs
Kicker 09PK4 wiring kit
Sound Ordnance sealed dual 10" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB102-75S)
Alpine CDE-136BT Head unit
Alpine SPR-60C front speakers
Adding that to the SPR-69 6x9's I installed a few weeks ago.....

I'll be searching though the forum for pics to get some ideas on mounting the tweeters and the sub box and amp. Feel free to post any pics from a 6th gen accord sedan install.

I plan on doing the big three wire upgrade and putting some quality terminals on the battery to make things nice and tight.

Any warnings on pitfalls for this type of install before I get to tearing into it are greatly appreciated. :skurred:

Valet · Aug 25, 2012

As far as wiring goes its very straight forward. I only needed another person to help my get the power wire through the fire wall.

Also that's some nice *** stuff you ordered :thumbup:

As far as mounting, here's an idea of what I did with my single 10"

The 4x1 that runs underneath from subframe to subframe really keeps everything sturdy and level.

ryan s · Aug 25, 2012

theres really no point in doing the big 3 unless your stock wires show too much resistance from years of corrosion...because the short runs of wire are not the bottleneck in the electrical system.

today in 2012, the only reason to run anything other than class d is if youre cheap :lawl:

the pitfalls of installing in this car are that its old and cheap so you will break panels and clips...expect some whine when the a/c is on...keep the wiring away from the modules in the front of the car...get ready for rattles.

Outfitting a 98 Accord LX Sedan

bwizard

Well-Known Member

Valet

IS300 SX > Accord

bwizard

Well-Known Member

Valet

IS300 SX > Accord

SykVSyx

Well-Known Member

schmiddr2

Well-Known Member

bwizard

Well-Known Member

bwizard

Well-Known Member

Valet

IS300 SX > Accord

ryan s

they dont think it

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