DIY Sound deadening?

Bax

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Posts
3,422
Reaction score
18
Location
Ohio
http://www.lowes.com/pd_50186-85334...l&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=sheet+metal&facetInfo=

Buy this sheet and a box of 40 or so self-tapping screws. Cover the holes in the door. $15 for some good benefits. You don't need a lot of CLD tiles for the door, just 2 sq ft would do the job. Maybe this, http://www.amazon.com/GTMAT-Automot...&ie=UTF8&qid=1362611871&sr=1-1&keywords=GTMAT

With that process complete then you can focus on removing any rattles by stuffing foam into place or with the pieces of CLD tiles you have left over.

Next step can be done later which is adding MLV.

sweet, repped.
 

Sil2DrV6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Posts
1,803
Reaction score
51
Location
USA
@gt58 & Bax, Thanks for the rep! :lolrun:

GL w/ your project to y'all!
 

xx24xx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Posts
923
Reaction score
1
Location
Maui
Look...I know what I'm talking about.

fc8c2855.jpg


I second what Ryan said. Our cars are made of tin cans! Don't cheap out on asphalt based deadener. It stinks, it comes off when it's super hot, it's harder to install and you won't get results you want.

Don't bother soundproofing anything. Road noise will come from every crevice and corner. You can spend $1K trying but will ultimately always hear it. Buy a luxury car if you want a quieter ride.

Stay away from open cell material. When it gets wet it'll develop mold. Bad idea!

Buy quality butyl based sound deadener to add mass to the doors. Create as much of a sealed enclosure as you can (but don't seal the bottom holes for the condensation to come out). Still want more? Got a sub? Do the rear deck. THEN do the trunk. The roof last. Don't bother with the floor. I did it to increase my SPL decibels. It worked but you don't need it.
 

gt58

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2012
Posts
653
Reaction score
0
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
xx24xx, i have my whole interior minus the floor done and i used peel and seal. i live in california where it is hot 80% of the year. ive never ran into any issues of it stinking. ive only had good results from it; and also being a college student, with limited funds, the few rolls only ran me about 60 or so dollars. im not knocking butyl applications because trust me, if i had the funds, id go with second skin; however i am saying that peel and seal is a great alternative to somebody on a tight budget. stands up to cali heat(drooping/stinking issues), and thats even with no tint on the front and 35% on the back 3 windows. have you personally had issues with stinking, or are you running with the common assumptions of asphalt backed products?
 

xx24xx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Posts
923
Reaction score
1
Location
Maui
I've personally tested peel'n seal and the results just don't compare to what I used(Dyna Extreme). You would have to apply 7-10 layers to get what overlapping Dyna Extreme did to the doors.
 

gt58

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2012
Posts
653
Reaction score
0
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
I've personally tested peel'n seal and the results just don't compare to what I used(Dyna Extreme). You would have to apply 7-10 layers to get what overlapping Dyna Extreme did to the doors.

when you personally tested it did you ever have it stink or droop on you?

im just saying its great if youre on a budget. ive had great results with just a single layer. its not about how many layers but how much surface area you cover


im glad youre happy with your dynamat extreme..
 

hellouser

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Posts
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Anon
Look...I know what I'm talking about.

fc8c2855.jpg


I second what Ryan said. Our cars are made of tin cans! Don't cheap out on asphalt based deadener. It stinks, it comes off when it's super hot, it's harder to install and you won't get results you want.

Don't bother soundproofing anything. Road noise will come from every crevice and corner. You can spend $1K trying but will ultimately always hear it. Buy a luxury car if you want a quieter ride.

Stay away from open cell material. When it gets wet it'll develop mold. Bad idea!

Buy quality butyl based sound deadener to add mass to the doors. Create as much of a sealed enclosure as you can (but don't seal the bottom holes for the condensation to come out). Still want more? Got a sub? Do the rear deck. THEN do the trunk. The roof last. Don't bother with the floor. I did it to increase my SPL decibels. It worked but you don't need it.

Holy moly.

How long does it take to strip apart the interior like that and install dynamat?

Is it all that work worth it? I mean, is there a significant change in a quiet ride when installing dynamat on the floor like that?
 
Last edited:

cj92

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2012
Posts
47
Reaction score
0
Location
Oklahoma
here is my passenger side door, a layer of raam mat BXT2 on the inside one on the outside and a layer of PS ensolite on the doors the the whole trunk has a layer of ballistics sound deadener with PS ensolite on it
 
Back
Top