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  #51  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:06 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

Originally Posted by ShiftShapa View Post
Well this reallly suxx within 40 kms my cel came back on after putting in a new bypass solenoid and bypass valve. While the canister vent shut valve was there I saw it and it was extremely rusted up. Thoughts? I guess just get a new can vent shut valve.

Wanted to mention in the bypass valve while taking it out there semed to be fuel in it as it was heavier than the new one I got.
the thread is about changing the shut off valve and canister...but you changed the bypass solenoid and valve...
...and you're wondering why the CEL is back on...

You want to do it right, test the system for leaks then replace parts.
You want to go by what has worked for majority, change the shut off valve and canister.
You want to go on your own, ...well you did and CEL is still there.
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  #52  
Old 06-17-2013, 11:32 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

If you actually read about the 1457 code youd know that TSB03001 says that it is important to change the Bypass solenoid or the bypass valve for 2002 models. I decided to change that as it was a greater chance to fault in 2002 models. Whereas many people with 99 98 models all had the canister vent shut valve issue. I went with the greater probablity that 2002 cars needed the solenoid or the valve instead. After opening up the canister heres a pic of my canister vent shut valve. Yes I went on my own through alotta research following the TSB which SAYS change the bypass solenoid or the bypass valve. Turns out my valve had fuel in it so i'm glad i changed it out. Do your research beforehand then youd know to have a better idea on what to say, than talk foolishness . I did my research and probability said go with bypass valve and solenoid.

for the other more educated folk here, here's a pic of my CVS ( Once I seen this when opened up the canister I had a goood feeling this was gonna be the issue. )



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  #53  
Old 06-18-2013, 08:25 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

No-one is blaming you for choosing the not mostly walked route. Kudos to you for doing it as now even though your CEL is still on...at least you know for sure it's not those parts your replaced already which can result in less time for you to pay for you/your mechanic to diagnose.

But since you seem to like to discuss who read what TSB and knows what...
-The smart thing to do is test the system for leaks, not just throw parts at it. This applies to any problem and a mechanic would diagnose the issue and not just start replacing parts. Simply as you could've had simply a cracked rubber hose...and you just blew $$$ for nothing(just stipulating)

-The service manual states that for a code of p1457 all of the below mentioned should be done, not just 1 or 2.
...Canister System Leak Test, EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve Test, EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Test & EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve Test. All the valves should click on when tested whether by Honda HDS/PGMFI tool, or by other aftermarket tools (SnapOn etc).

As for the TSB 03-001 from January 28, 2003(which supersedes from TSB 02-007 from February 19, 2002 which itself also connects to TSB 01-011
from March 6, 2001)... it also says to "TEST" the above mentioned 4 things as well...which you/your mechanic failed to do to realize it was the shut off valve (most likely as it is usually the issue).

Yes TSB#01-011 said coverage was directed to 98-99 Accord - L4 models with A/T however this was later updated to 98-02.

The end result being what was already mentioned already
You want to do it right, test the system for leaks then replace parts.
You want to go by what has worked for majority, change the shut off valve and canister.
You want to go on your own, ...well you did and CEL is still there.
Before you judge ones education, make sure you have your own on the straight arrow road first.
Originally Posted by ShiftShapa View Post
If you actually read about the 1457 code youd know that TSB03001 says that it is important to change the Bypass solenoid or the bypass valve for 2002 models. I decided to change that as it was a greater chance to fault in 2002 models. Whereas many people with 99 98 models all had the canister vent shut valve issue. I went with the greater probablity that 2002 cars needed the solenoid or the valve instead. After opening up the canister heres a pic of my canister vent shut valve. Yes I went on my own through alotta research following the TSB which SAYS change the bypass solenoid or the bypass valve. Turns out my valve had fuel in it so i'm glad i changed it out. Do your research beforehand then youd know to have a better idea on what to say, than talk foolishness . I did my research and probability said go with bypass valve and solenoid.

for the other more educated folk here, here's a pic of my CVS ( Once I seen this when opened up the canister I had a goood feeling this was gonna be the issue. )



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Last edited by 001Stunna; 06-18-2013 at 08:30 PM.
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  #54  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:01 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

you may want to just replace the canister along with the shut valve as well. two of my friends are honda techs, they were who scanned my cel originally, and they both said i'll probably want to replace the canister as well since the bolts are usually so rusted it's a bitch to get them out...if they'll even come out. so i replaced both, but i tried to get the old shut valve off and yeah, they were right...those screws were fawked haha. just trying to save you a little aggravation. i think i got the parts for a little less than $130, and following this diy made it real easy to do. the hoses will probably give you the most fight, i just twisted them a little bit to free them, then they came right off.
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  #55  
Old 06-21-2013, 01:25 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

As you may recall diagnosing tends to take hours and a lot of money itself in ADDITION to parts which I was told by the mechanic. Hence, through all the research and reading as ive already stated I began to read and look at probabilities. I did change the bypass valve , which did end up having some fuel in it (heavier than new part) and secondly the solenoid had rust itself on it which either way would be beneficial that it was replaced. Lastly, education tends to depict one's character and how one can process information. This website is made for newbies and pros who are interested in gaining knowledge in their cars. No need to put blame on someone for merely just making a choice after a lot of research.


Originally Posted by 001Stunna View Post
No-one is blaming you for choosing the not mostly walked route. Kudos to you for doing it as now even though your CEL is still on...at least you know for sure it's not those parts your replaced already which can result in less time for you to pay for you/your mechanic to diagnose.

But since you seem to like to discuss who read what TSB and knows what...
-The smart thing to do is test the system for leaks, not just throw parts at it. This applies to any problem and a mechanic would diagnose the issue and not just start replacing parts. Simply as you could've had simply a cracked rubber hose...and you just blew $$$ for nothing(just stipulating)

-The service manual states that for a code of p1457 all of the below mentioned should be done, not just 1 or 2.
...Canister System Leak Test, EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve Test, EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Test & EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve Test. All the valves should click on when tested whether by Honda HDS/PGMFI tool, or by other aftermarket tools (SnapOn etc).

As for the TSB 03-001 from January 28, 2003(which supersedes from TSB 02-007 from February 19, 2002 which itself also connects to TSB 01-011
from March 6, 2001)... it also says to "TEST" the above mentioned 4 things as well...which you/your mechanic failed to do to realize it was the shut off valve (most likely as it is usually the issue).

Yes TSB#01-011 said coverage was directed to 98-99 Accord - L4 models with A/T however this was later updated to 98-02.

The end result being what was already mentioned already


Before you judge ones education, make sure you have your own on the straight arrow road first.
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  #56  
Old 06-21-2013, 07:27 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

I did replaced my canister and shut off valve and cleared the cel. After a couple days it gave me a p0420 P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank1).
Does that mean i need a new o2 sensor? If so which one? Up or downstream
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:55 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

I have installed the bypass solenoid and the 2way bypass valve light came on a day light i reset it and it has not come back on for yet for the last week. Leave it be, or put in a new canister vent shut valve?
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:56 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

also i wanna know does a new bypass solenoid and 2way valve give the car a better pick up/faster a bit? or is it just me?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:37 PM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

Originally Posted by ShiftShapa View Post
I have installed the bypass solenoid and the 2way bypass valve light came on a day light i reset it and it has not come back on for yet for the last week. Leave it be, or put in a new canister vent shut valve?
Check the readiness status for the EVAP system. Does it say pending or passed. It takes quite a few trips/km for the ECU to set the system to Pass.

Originally Posted by ShiftShapa View Post
also i wanna know does a new bypass solenoid and 2way valve give the car a better pick up/faster a bit? or is it just me?
I would say it's just you.
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:57 AM
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Re: DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

My research and probabilities SERVED ME WELL. My CEL light came on a day after changing the bypass solenoid and the 2 way valve, but a day later it was back off and has not come back on.
I did a OBD2 scan and NO CODES have come up and EVAP says READY for that category.
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