Front Adjustable UCAs - Suggestions

CDsDontBurn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Posts
1,856
Reaction score
28
Location
Where rusted out cars don't exist
Well then, you should do LCA's. sway bar bushings and end links, and go with the TruHart UCA's. I think that'll be the only way you'll be happy in the long run. That, and being able to set the UCA's to eliminate the camber issue. You've found the parts are available, so the next step is making the purchase.

I was going to do the LCAs anyway. And the previous post got me thinking of doing all the other little bits too. It's just the UCAs I'm concerned about.

I'm leaning on the TruHarts at this point. I REALLY want the Ingalls Engineering units, but they're unobtainium at the moment. That, or I'm not looking hard enough for them where they're not $200+ each side whereas I'd be willing to spend $150 on each side like I saw them for on Amazon.

As for making the purchase, I'll be buying hardware this coming paycheck......if the wife doesn't want to splurge for Valentines.... :rolleyes: :wub:
 

CDsDontBurn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Posts
1,856
Reaction score
28
Location
Where rusted out cars don't exist
Parts came in today! I went with Mevotech's higher end line of product for the UCAs. I just didn't know enough about those adjustable units that made me feel comfortable enough to buy them and the Ingalls Engineering units are no longer available as (I found out) Dorman bought them out early last year.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xWvhAPDLSzuFGvhR2

For my PS pump job that I'm going to be replacing (should be in tomorrow)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1GL7ZhSnw0gknOXt2

And, does anyone know why the end link nuts are oblong / oval?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wYV7rEqHI6kxMwci1
 

CDsDontBurn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Posts
1,856
Reaction score
28
Location
Where rusted out cars don't exist
Just watched two YT videos, one on how to do UCA and the second on how to do the LCA. The LCA is far more involved, but in doing so, I realized that it doesn't take a whole lot more to do the lower ball joints on the knuckle. Then, there's the wheel bearings as well.

The saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but at the same time, I'm already there and all this stuff has 318k miles on it.....sooooooooooo

What do you guys say? Should I replace the hubs and lower ball joints as well? I'd rather do the job once and with it all already apart, I might as well. That's my thinking at least.
 

Rusty Accord

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Posts
434
Reaction score
3
Location
USA
Just watched two YT videos, one on how to do UCA and the second on how to do the LCA. The LCA is far more involved, but in doing so, I realized that it doesn't take a whole lot more to do the lower ball joints on the knuckle. Then, there's the wheel bearings as well.

The saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but at the same time, I'm already there and all this stuff has 318k miles on it.....sooooooooooo

What do you guys say? Should I replace the hubs and lower ball joints as well? I'd rather do the job once and with it all already apart, I might as well. That's my thinking at least.

When I did the front end of my 99, I did hub bearings and lower ball joints at the same time. I re-used my 4 lug hubs though, as they were Honda parts. The hub bearings were Timken, but the ball joints were from Detroit Axle. I also did outer tie rod ends too. I did that at 232K miles. The hub bearings were why I was in there, as they were rumbling pretty good.
 

CDsDontBurn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Posts
1,856
Reaction score
28
Location
Where rusted out cars don't exist
When I did the front end of my 99, I did hub bearings and lower ball joints at the same time. I re-used my 4 lug hubs though, as they were Honda parts. The hub bearings were Timken, but the ball joints were from Detroit Axle. I also did outer tie rod ends too. I did that at 232K miles. The hub bearings were why I was in there, as they were rumbling pretty good.

That's just it. Nothing is clunking, rumbling, or making noises of any sort at this time. But I'm one of those people who like to do preventative maintenance rather than "Oh shibby!!!" maintenance.

I'd go ahead and do all of it.

That's the way I'm leaning towards also.
 

CDsDontBurn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Posts
1,856
Reaction score
28
Location
Where rusted out cars don't exist
So I guess this will have to wait another month or so then before I can get into this. I'll have to buy the bushings and the bearings and right now I'm tapped out for cash after having spent nearly $500 in TLC parts. It's just an extra $100, but rent is coming up, lol.

Also, after I got tires....three weeks ago now?....they told me I needed new front brakes soon. I kinda figured because of the extreme shaking of the steering wheel when hitting the brakes with almost any sort of pressure. That, and I'm starting to hear the indicator pin making a slight squeal when I apply brake pressure, lol.
 

BlkCurrantKord

Super Moderator
Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Posts
9,870
Reaction score
85
Location
Ohio
So I guess this will have to wait another month or so then before I can get into this. I'll have to buy the bushings and the bearings and right now I'm tapped out for cash after having spent nearly $500 in TLC parts. It's just an extra $100, but rent is coming up, lol.

Also, after I got tires....three weeks ago now?....they told me I needed new front brakes soon. I kinda figured because of the extreme shaking of the steering wheel when hitting the brakes with almost any sort of pressure. That, and I'm starting to hear the indicator pin making a slight squeal when I apply brake pressure, lol.

Yea, those are warped rotors.
 
Back
Top