Car dies while driving randomly. Radio still seems to work

LowerMyCG5 said:

I had to jump it , but it would run then die while it was rolling. I had to put it in gear and pip the clutch to jump it while moving.

Try the main relay

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hmm i always thought the main relay was mainly for cars that don't start and other similar behaviors but not something like in my case.

to hook up the lights I just use some random scrap wire, and jam it in the connector/relay/fuse, whatever. its not permanent, so it doesn't have to look nice.

The ignition switch has carbon buildup internally, happened to me, luckily I found the service bulletin and replaced it. Its around $40-$50. I like the idea of checking power with the bulbs, just install one on ignition switch connector power out wire and see if thats the problem.

TheEdge said:

The ignition switch has carbon buildup internally, happened to me, luckily I found the service bulletin and replaced it. Its around $40-$50. I like the idea of checking power with the bulbs, just install one on ignition switch connector power out wire and see if thats the problem.

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could you see the carbon if you take out the switch?

i've bought the ignition switch for now just in case. car hasn't died today.

i went ahead and did the continuity test and ignition switch seems fine from the test results. I tried to make it fail the continuity test and it just wouldnt.....

will see with the light bulb method, if car ever dies again.

anybody know if a bad cat could cause the engine to stall as well? I'll have it replace this week regardless.

i should probably go ahead and do some maintenance such as the distributor cap and rotor as well as the ignition coil. The replacement distributor I got was from a used accord so it's probably not a big idea to replace those now.


also does your accord's cluster turn off if you put your tranmission on D4 and turn the key to start but let it snap back to on?
this guy tested his ignition switch this way, however my cluster rarely comes back on if I wiggle my keys.

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Honda Accord Ignition Switch Replacement

A bad cat will cause a severe power loss, but it will be constant.

ok that confirms what i've been reading. hate the problem to be the fuel pump or injector.

If its intermittent its not your cat. Describe in detail your power loss? Does it occur randomly or all the time.

The Ignition switch does have plastic tabs in case you want to open it. I broke mine off since I lost the patience. has a spring and a small bearing and semi circular contact areas.

TheEdge said:

If its intermittent its not your cat. Describe in detail your power loss? Does it occur randomly or all the time.

The Ignition switch does have plastic tabs in case you want to open it. I broke mine off since I lost the patience. has a spring and a small bearing and semi circular contact areas.

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randomly. All the cluster lights light up for a sec then everything shuts off, rpm and speedometer go to 0. The radio, fan, etc still work.

Starts rights up without any problem after I pull over.

1. Several weeks ago it was because the power to the battery got disconnected and took me a while to restart it. Can't remember if radio still worked or not.

2. It's on there very tight right now and couple days ago it did similar but this time I was able to start up the car right away. It's been starting and driving great right now, haven't had any problems yesterday or today.

I would say your ignition switch as it's what mine would do when it went bad. After replacing it, never happened again. I could reproduce my issue if i played with the key while idling and jiggled it enough. However just like you if going by the manuals testing method my old (bad) switch was also ok.

However since you mention you had a problem with your wiring before...i'm assuming you have double checked that all of your grounds, battery to starter, alternator charging wire are on tight and not frayed?

001Stunna said:

I would say your ignition switch as it's what mine would do when it went bad. After replacing it, never happened again. I could reproduce my issue if i played with the key while idling and jiggled it enough. However just like you if going by the manuals testing method my old (bad) switch was also ok.

However since you mention you had a problem with your wiring before...i'm assuming you have double checked that all of your grounds, battery to starter, alternator charging wire are on tight and not frayed?

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I couldn't reproduce my issue with the key by jiggling it like crazy. I've tried to kill it today and it still hasn't died...

Yes, it was just the power cable from battery to run the car. I've put it back tightly and I don't see it coming off anytime soon. It died once (one I'm mentioning above several days ago) but hasn't happened since.

I checked the other day and I noticed something odd on one of the stock wires, it's the same wire that was disconnected I think. The other end seems like it's split a little. Anybody else with this issue?





Alternator and all other wires are fine. The car still has the Big 3 upgrade and I haven't taken these out after I sold my system. Will probably leave these there until later.