Slowfinger
Active Member
Based on what I've seen from some JDM retailers, they do mention having to keep both manifolds, and even transferring the crank sensors.
JDM F23 Swap (the fall and rise of my accord)
- Thread starter Gmoney
- Start date
I know this post is a little old but im looking for help I bought an 02 accord dx from a guy wouldnt run, stalled anything over idle, he tells me it had just had a head put on, I get to looking find vtec system not plugged in I think , ahh they put the wrong head on it, so I checi eng model number to verify, and thats not the case, car had an f23a5 stock according to the hnda shop, now has an f23a1, so I researched some , I need a vtech ecm, will my a5 harness plug into to the vtech ecm because I would prefer to pin a few wires into the ecm for the vtech than ran a new harness, lastly and most important to me if I get the ecm off anotyer 02 I have found will I have t take it to honda and have ecm flashed for the key?
Thanks if there is a thread somewhere with this info please let me know
Thanks if there is a thread somewhere with this info please let me know
Not sure of the above answer, but for those who are interested, I have an update.
So the motor has been in for a week or so now. Runs excellent I find the throttle is much more responsive, it sounds healthier and doesn't burn oil
The only negative is, I have had a couple coolant leaks spring up. 1st was when an old clip wasn't holding as well and leaking. That was a simple fix with a new clamp.
The second is where the main coolant hose (from the top of the rad) attaches to the head. The seal between the plastic adapter and head. Coolant is dripping right below that after I drive and then squeeze the hose. That is getting fixed tonight with a new seal.
Other than that, and the headaches my mechanic had because he didn't know he had to use the original intake and exhaust manifold, I'm very happy thus far with my choice.
The total project installed is about $1850 CAN (including cost of motor, new timing belts, water pump, seals and spark plugs). I Wanted to keep it at $1500 total, but life's a *****.
So the motor has been in for a week or so now. Runs excellent I find the throttle is much more responsive, it sounds healthier and doesn't burn oil
The only negative is, I have had a couple coolant leaks spring up. 1st was when an old clip wasn't holding as well and leaking. That was a simple fix with a new clamp.
The second is where the main coolant hose (from the top of the rad) attaches to the head. The seal between the plastic adapter and head. Coolant is dripping right below that after I drive and then squeeze the hose. That is getting fixed tonight with a new seal.
Other than that, and the headaches my mechanic had because he didn't know he had to use the original intake and exhaust manifold, I'm very happy thus far with my choice.
The total project installed is about $1850 CAN (including cost of motor, new timing belts, water pump, seals and spark plugs). I Wanted to keep it at $1500 total, but life's a *****.
Coolant leaks are fixed.
Anyone find their MPG dropped a bit doing this swap? I'm not sure why, but I mentioned it to my mechanic when he was fixing the final coolant leak. He said that it could be a bad O2 sensor after getting knocked around in the process, but that usually throws a code.
Any ideas? Basically, it looks like I've dropped about 20% MPG. But that is only after driving about 1000 miles since the swap.
Anyone find their MPG dropped a bit doing this swap? I'm not sure why, but I mentioned it to my mechanic when he was fixing the final coolant leak. He said that it could be a bad O2 sensor after getting knocked around in the process, but that usually throws a code.
Any ideas? Basically, it looks like I've dropped about 20% MPG. But that is only after driving about 1000 miles since the swap.
The winters are terrible here!
Found another coolant leak. Well, haven't found a leak, but it is still using coolant. It's so cold here I haven't been able to really have a good look. I will have to wash the engine bay first, then drive it for a while. Any typical places I should look after doing a swap? Obviously the rad itself should be fine and things like that, just where coolant connections join the motor?
Found another coolant leak. Well, haven't found a leak, but it is still using coolant. It's so cold here I haven't been able to really have a good look. I will have to wash the engine bay first, then drive it for a while. Any typical places I should look after doing a swap? Obviously the rad itself should be fine and things like that, just where coolant connections join the motor?
yeah something I noticed myself was that my mpgs suck compared to the ulev this thing drinks gas, other than that pat you should check where the coolant connections join the motor because my hoses were broken and I had to replace them when I did the swap
Good to know!
I just did a long trip (500kms) and got almost to 500 in the top half of the tank, which was what I was doing before, so maybe it just needed a good cleanout.
It used about an inch of coolant in the reservoir. That is a small amount to detect. This may be a hassle and a half. I will have to shampoo the engine bay, cause there is residual coolant everywhere from the other two leaks we fixed. Then hopefully I can locate it.
I just did a long trip (500kms) and got almost to 500 in the top half of the tank, which was what I was doing before, so maybe it just needed a good cleanout.
It used about an inch of coolant in the reservoir. That is a small amount to detect
. This may be a hassle and a half. I will have to shampoo the engine bay, cause there is residual coolant everywhere from the other two leaks we fixed. Then hopefully I can locate it.Slowfinger
Active Member
Hi Pat, Glad to hear the engine swap went good. I would not shampoo an engine bay (which of course means the engine too), the degreasing properties of the shampoo get in all the nooks and crannies and may even remove oil/grease in parts of the engine/trans where they are supposed to stay in, I'd recommend doing it the hard way and wiping down the suspected areas with a rag and paint thinner. As for your coolant going down an inch in the reservoir, that is totally normal during usage, check to see if it went back up after the engine has cooled down, or the next day. My does that all the time (moves up and down between the min/max lines). I'd be more worried about finding oil mixed in with the reservoir, but that's for old engines with gaskets that are on their way out! How did your mechanic take the engine out, was it through the top and if so, was the tranny attached? Any pics? I'm going to be doing the same as you, I'm sick of the knocking sound in my car, it seems to be getting worse now, last thing I need is for that thing to go on me during rush hour on a bridge or something! I just ordered a F23A JDM from jdmracingmotors.com, looks pretty sweet, they even do the compression test on video for you! Cheers!
Last edited:
danmccormick87
Well-Known Member
Agreed!!!
