Engine Burning Oil (New)

Hello there, I've been around these forums for a while, just haven't had time to sit down and do a formal registration. I have read endless threads about oil burning, but I think I have a different situation.

I bought my 99 accord 4 cyl 5mt with 270,000km (165k miles) almost a year ago. I believe the oil burning issues has been persistent since day 1 of buying the car, but I'm not 100% sure. It now has 305,000km (190k miles)

So this is the situation, when I'm driving 4k+ rpm, I get a lot of smoke from my exhaust (not all the time tho, lets say 90% of the time) It is oil burning for sure, as my coolant level is renaming the same, and its not running rich. While I understand that an engine with now 310k km is no doubt going to burn oil, the rate of oil consumed at 4k+ rpm is ridiculous. I'm talking half a quart (500ml) per 100km (60 miles). - I guess a sign that the engine is toast...

However, on my road trips (1300km, 800 miles) with the rpm and speed ranging 2,000-3500rpm (100-140kph) or 60-85mph for the American folks, the car consumed a mere 100-150ml. Fuel economy is excellent for 2.3 4 cylinder 5mt ranging from 30-38mpg depending weather conditions, A/C, etc.

I began with a compression test, all cylinders show excellent compression across the board. This would be hand in hand with the fuel consumption being good, and no noticeable loss of power from the engine. I'm aware that the valves are usually bad when it is smoking while idle, or using engine break. I have not noticed smoke on idle or engine breaking. Many people have told me oil rings (or a stuck ring) could be the problem. However, I have yet to see a car that burns almost no oil during normal operation, and excessive during high rpms.

I have run seafoam a number of times, I have removed the spark plugs (which showed no sign of oil or fuel fouling), sprayed combustion cleaner, while the car was off the ground, put it in gear and moved the front tires to move the engine. I left it over night, started it up in the morning with very little hesitation and slight smoke at start up.

Apart from trying to clean the insides or free stuck oil rings, I have tried oils of different viscosities. ( 0W-20, 5w-20, 5w-30, 10w30, 15w40, 20w50!!!)) I believe it burns around the same amount no matter the oil, except when I was putting thicker oil I was subconsciously driving regularly, without a lot of WOT which resulted in seeing less oil consumption. One observation I have made is, when I was on the highway with my friend driving behind me, I gunned it and saw a bit of black smoke (not harmful, indicates rich fuel mixture just that second) and he told me that there was no smoke following that little bit. I had it WOT for 3rd and 4th gear, so that has me confused.

I replaced the PCV valve as it was cheap and I was thinking it could be it. I removed the intake manifold, and I found it to be disgustingly oily. I'm talking about a quarter inch of built up sludge (about a cm). At the same time I removed the EGR and cleaned both thoroughly with fuel, and brake cleaner and let them dry. I did not notice the car running any different after performing this cleaning. I have been thinking of installing an oil catch can, to see if something is malfunctioning in the PCV system.

I have most likely done other things as well, or have further observations that are not coming to mind right now, but if anyone has ANY idea of what it could be, or a fix (no swap/junk) I would be very thankful

Sounds similar to mine at 200k miles. I'm going through a quart every 10 ten days. Brand new top of the motor, but bad seals were left on by previous owner. Oil is also leaking out of the back of the engine. Smoke shoots out the exhaust when I step on the gas and brand new oil turns black very quickly.

I was quoted 2k to fix it, so I'm just feeding it oil until I piece together a swap.

I thought bad valve seals typically exhibit their failure through a blue cloud of smoke(burnt oil) upon the start-up of your engine, valve seals will cause smoke at idle and other high vacuum situations but not smoke at full throttle...Not too sure, just what i have read...

Upon oil change it takes around 500km for my oil to get brown, and within 1k (600 miles) it is black.

As far as I can see, when I was doing the flex pipe, cat and exhaust work, my engine seems bone dry all around. I just buy oil on sale, 5L of 10w-30 goes for $12-15, so its cheaper to burn it I guess...

Edit: Have you checked your valve cover gasket? This could be where you are leaking oil from

#1:

If you have no leaks, it sounds like an oil ring problem.

10w40 synth works fine for me, with Honda filters.

Run seafoam, it might get better, I use it w/ gas, could run it w/ air though. If it don't improve plan a rebuild or new engine.

I have yet to try synthetic oil, or even a blend. Always have used regular. My oil change is coming up and it wouldn't hurt to try synthetic. As the colder weather comes closer I will either put 10w40 or 0w40. I have run seafoam numerous times, mainly in the crankcase and vacuum slowly before changing the oil. I have heard of some mystery oil, but I have never tried it.

I have noticed that after changing the oil, it burns it slower then after the oil has been used for 3-4k. Today (5.2K since my last oil change, after I hit the gas, a lot of smoke came out and continued to smoke until I eased off the throttle)

I guess oil rings are to blame, I'm just amazed how it burns so little during regular RPM's. Could just be over thinking, but could it be some problem with the VTEC system. Could VTEC cause oil burning, or does it just do it indirectly (increased oil pressure, higher rpm)

Thanks for the insight

I had the exact same issue.

After replacing the engine from the Japanese engine place off Keele St and Lawrence, I still burn oil over 4000rpm.

My buddy tells me I smoke at high rpms when he is behind me. But I still get 800+kms on the highway, 650+ kms in city per tank.

My advice, save your money, don't rev the car, and enjoy good gas milage.
With that many kms, not worth fixing IMO.

VTEC has nothing to do with it. Look at whole system diag to understand.