5 Speed Swap M/T ECU Issue

98ACCORDLXSD

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So yesterday I went to the dealership and asked if they could reprogram my keys for my new M/T ECU waiting to be installed. Pretty much told me and this was the service manager and he was like charge you 80$ and doubt it would work, They are trying to get me to buy a new ECU and everything.

Now people who done this swap this is all you did right ? was drive your car auto ECU in, got them to switch the ECU and program the keys for the new ECU to by pass the immobolizer.

Because issue right now is when I plug in the M/T ECU out of a 99 I4 Accord that worked, My Dash flash the immobolizer key and nothing, I can plug in a OBD1 PT3 and PT4 Accord ECU, it would crank my car but wont fire up.

What would another Idea be? Right now still no Speedo/Odometer and bouncy Idle and 5K cut off.
 

CHID0

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I had to bolt the MT ECU into the car and drive to the dealership on the AT ECU. They made me buy a fresh key to have programmed to the ECU and with that they can reprogram my existing keys. It took em a while but they got it right. Before taking it the service rep had to bring a tech into the convo cause he didn't understand that it could be done. So I explained to the tech and he said he can do it but the rep kept saying it might not work, it might not work.....

It ended up working and then i wired for the vss and speedo and everything worked 100%
 

98ACCORDLXSD

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Okay I could do that, Did you need the VIN # off the M/T ECU?

Because thats the boat Iam, Service manger was saying it wont work, I know a few techs at the Honda Dealership thats feeding me BS. I mean its no different then say you fry your ECU.
 

CHID0

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You may or may not need the vin, I didn't but i explained to them that i got it off a car from the junk yard and they were reluctant but they ended up saying that they will do it if the ECU was installed/bolted to the car.

They should have the technology to be able to pull the code from the ECU and program a new key (if not re-code your existing one), if they are in any way a reputable establishment.
 

98ACCORDLXSD

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Got another problem. I was told I could just use a OBD2B to OBD1 conversion harness and a OBD1 ECU to run my car as long as I had the stock injectors from someone who did a few swaps. Well I tried a PT3 and a PR4 ECU and none will start my car. I yet to try a P28.
 

Lloyd

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I just did this last month. After I found out I'd been running on an auto ECU that a 6th gen member sold me as a M/T...(I'd been driving around with a surging idle, no Speedo, no V-tec for a month and couldn't understand why, until I checked my OBD2 codes, and it was throwing a couple "A/T concerns" codes. I checked the numbers on the back of the ECU and sure enough it was an A/T ECU. ( I wont' name names but I'd love it he'd respond to my messages. :haysm9:)

Anyway, I finally got a M/T ECU from the junkyard. Luckily I got a good deal on it after I told the guy my story of all my dickaround.

I drove to the dealer on the auto ECU, They swapped in the ECU and programmed all 3 of my original keys for $50. Like magic everything suddenly worked..speedo,v-tec, and a nice low idle, no obd2 codes.

Lloyd
 

98ACCORDLXSD

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I just did this last month. After I found out I'd been running on an auto ECU that a 6th gen member sold me as a M/T...(I'd been driving around with a surging idle, no Speedo, no V-tec for a month and couldn't understand why, until I checked my OBD2 codes, and it was throwing a couple "A/T concerns" codes. I checked the numbers on the back of the ECU and sure enough it was an A/T ECU. ( I wont' name names but I'd love it he'd respond to my messages. :haysm9:)

Anyway, I finally got a M/T ECU from the junkyard. Luckily I got a good deal on it after I told the guy my story of all my dickaround.

I drove to the dealer on the auto ECU, They swapped in the ECU and programmed all 3 of my original keys for $50. Like magic everything suddenly worked..speedo,v-tec, and a nice low idle, no obd2 codes.

Lloyd

AT ECUs 4 PLUGS, MT ECU 3 PLUGS.
 

Lloyd

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Well for those who haven't seen the A/t and M/t ECU side by side... They are structurally identical and there's actually 4 plug sockets on both ECUs, the difference is there's no pins in the 4th plug socket on the M/t ECU...That's certainly the easy way to tell them apart.

THing was, I hadn't seen an M/T ECU up to that point and had no reason to believe it would look any different than an A/t ECU. A Google search of the The serial number differences is how I found out. And it was only after I got my hands on an M/T EU that I saw the physical difference.

Lloyd
 
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