'98 Accord EX 4cyl - F23A1 Manual Trans - poor acceleration >3000rpm?

jmh

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I picked up a 1998 Accord EX 5-speed a couple weeks ago. I bought it from a guy that was a mechanic. He had the top end rebuilt last year mainly for burnt valves. He says that it was cleaned, valve seats and guides were replaced and, a new timing belt, head gasket, etc. He gave me reciepts of the parts.

The engine and tranny leak no oil. Very clean. It has had a few quirks, most of which I can work out or live with.

The biggest irritation to me that I can't figure out is that acceleration seem terrible after 3000rpm. When merging onto the freeway, I can be in 3rd or 4th gear at 40-50mph and flooring it and i will eventually get up to speed after some time. (quite a few seconds). It doent seem like clutch slippage because the engine isn't revving and rpms aren't shooting up. Speed slowly increases. People merging behind me usually pass me up.
I had a '04 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3 liter 4cy auto and I could pass anyone one the freeway without any trouble at all. (I know, differ mfg, engine, etc, but still somewhat comparable)

I believe have performed some due dilligence by searching but I don't recall seeing something exactly like what this.

I have no CEL.

Spark Plugs (NGK Iridium), wires, cap and rotor are new as of DEC 2013 per previous owner reciepts. I checked and cap/rotor are clean.

I did find the Spark plugs were covered in a solid, bright white crust.. almost like they'd been dipped in flour. I cleaned them up. I did some searches on spark plug conditions here and on the web and the two answers that were most common regarding white tips were "thats normal wear" or "lean condition, check fuel system".

In the past week I have replaced:
- Air filter
- 1 Leaky fuel injector replaced yesterday, cleaned out other injectors and fuel rail.
- Drive belts
- Front motor mount (I know.. likely not related to acceleration issue.)
- ignition switch (first day with this car on my 35 mile morning commute to work, the car stalled at 70mph, but since its a manual tranny, it fired back up immediately being it was in gear, freaked me out until I learned of the ignition switch issue, which I wasted no time in replacing. Haven't had the problem return)

When searched here for poor acceleration or sluggish performance, the typical result was due to needing tuneup or clogged cat.

My cat is aftermarket and is welded in. How can I rule out cat without a sawzall.
I suspected fuel delivery. I found fuel PSI specs (static and under-load) in my Haynes, but I need a fuel pressure guage. I saw a fuel pressure kit at Harbor Fright for ~$20.00, but wasnt sure if this was a worthy purchase to make from HF or if I'd need something a little more reliable.

So, in a nutshell, has anyone else had any issue with terrible acceleration at higher RPM's (>3k rpm)?
This is a VTEC F23A1. I once had a '97 Prelude with H22A, I know, SOHC vs DOHC, but that Prelude had a certain pull in acceleration between 3k-4krpm that was really pretty nice. I have read the VTEC engagement isn't quite as aggressive on F23A1's as they are on H22's, but I mean, I have squat at this point. This Accord sure leaves something to be desired in the acceleration arena.

In addition, I have had intermittent instances with short distances (20-50mph) stop/go travel where I will feel a noticeable bog on the engine and power, then will snap out of it seconds later (aside from the >3krpm slow acceleration). Not A/C, and not cooling fan from what I can tell.

Any ideas would sure be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
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blackhawksfan18

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I thought I was the only one with this problem! I don't know what's wrong with mine either. I was thinking maybe my tranny is slipping? I have an automatic.
 

jmh

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I bought a '98 EX-V6 with an auto tranny. The thing was smooooth and it had tons of get-up-an-go. Right after I bought it (after xmas 2013) I saw how many probs people were having with the auto transmissions.

With how smooth of a ride this car was, I loved it, but I didn't want to risk owning it should the tranny decide to die. I ended up selling it a couple weeks ago and long story short, I now have this manual '98 Accord EX that is pretty much gutless.

I need some tires and suspension work (ball joints, tie rods, etc..) which I am happy to do, but only if I can get this acceleration issue sorted out. If I can't, i'm afraid I'll just sell it and move on. I wish the v6 6th gens came from factory with 6-speed manual option. I know people are swapping to come acura tranny, but too much work. Hmmm.

Good luck with your ride, blackhawksfan18.
 
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DarkSideAccord

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is it gradually getting worse? mine got slower and slower and eventually stall when I had my cat clogged..... to check, just put your hand close to your exhaust and have someone gas it.. u should feel quite a bit of exhaust fume from the exhaust.... if it feel like nothing is coming out, then the cat is the most likely culprit

also, u don't need iridium plugs on the 4 banger.. get coppers and u're set
 

blackhawksfan18

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is it gradually getting worse? mine got slower and slower and eventually stall when I had my cat clogged..... to check, just put your hand close to your exhaust and have someone gas it.. u should feel quite a bit of exhaust fume from the exhaust.... if it feel like nothing is coming out, then the cat is the most likely culprit

also, u don't need iridium plugs on the 4 banger.. get coppers and u're set
What would be some other signs of a bad cat?
 

jmh

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DarkSideAccord said:
is it gradually getting worse?

It's hard to tell. I've only had it since last Friday. I hope it doesn't get worse.
It doesn't seem to smell like eggs.

DarkSideAccord said:
also, u don't need iridium plugs on the 4 banger.. get coppers and u're set

Haha.. I remember iridiums were recommended for the EX-V6. I was pretty surprised when I pulled the plugs out of my current Accord and saw they were iridium's. I priced the recommended NGK's and they're just ~$2.00/plug. I'm thinking of just throwing some of those in. I don't know if they'll make any difference in my acceleration issue, but i'm happy to try [most] anything.

I'll have to take a closer look at my exhaust and see if its weak and stinks.
 

CG6Lemon

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You could downshift to 2nd and be at 3-4kish rpm with good power. If you're in 3rd gear going about 40-50, the rpms will be very low barely 3k and you won't make good power. The 5spd is a big difference from auto, but it's not going to be as fast or anywhere close to your h22.
 

jmh

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CG6Lemon said:
You could downshift to 2nd and be at 3-4kish rpm with good power. If you're in 3rd gear going about 40-50, the rpms will be very low barely 3k and you won't make good power. The 5spd is a big difference from auto, but it's not going to be as fast or anywhere close to your h22.
Today I tried 2nd gear while going 45 and I was right at 4500rpm. Seemed to have some pull but also seemed kinda high. Does the VTEC really work as it does on h22? kick in at a certain RPM?

Something I tried last night was clean my EGR valve ports. I checked the Haynes/Chilton/whichever book I have and it told me I could do a continuity test on the EGR valve itself.

Testing pins 1 and 2 then 1 and 3 should not be open and should have some resistance.
When I tested my EGR valve, pins 1 and 2 were good as in not open, but pins 1 and 3 were open or infinite.

I have no CEL, so I wonder if the book is correct in this testing procedure.
Anyone else know much about testing / Ohm-ing out an EGR valve.

Could faulty EGR valve contribute to poor acceleration? I would think if there was an issue, CEL would light, but who knows, right?

Thanks
 
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