Rough Idle, Stalling, Blinking Engine Light, and Hard Starts

they're 12mm?

get a 6pt socket!!!!!

Then find a large ratchet...



that's a 1" drive Matco telescoping ratchet...nothins tight enough.

Also, extensions for lil guys work. Use 3/8" + extension, with a BIG deep socket to fit on ratchet handle.

Alright guys-- I didn't have a chance to check out the issue til today (ive been using my other car). I was able to get the bolts off and remove the EGR Valve. Not to my surprise-- it was gunked. I thoroughly cleaned both parts.

After driving it for a couple miles-- I still have the misfire codes, a rough idle, and it did stall out on me again.

What is my next course of action?

Thank you all for the help by the way!

EDIT: After researching, it looks like an O2 Sensor could be the issue. Thoughts?

all you have is misfire codes?

when's it happen?

EGR is REALLY cleaned, right? carb cleaner to 'polish' it up right?

I forgot, V6 or I4, but I4 has intake manifold ports that also need cleaned, but shouldn't cause it to misfire.

Yeah I used carb cleaner and its super clean. I don't know why its still actin up
EDIT: 4 cylinder

when do you get the problem, specifically

on/no throttle
when sitting, re-starting, going

Rough Idle/Stalling occurs @ start, re-start, stopping fully @ intersections. so no throttle.

Okay so I let the car run in park idle for 10 minutes after a 5 minute drive. What I noticed was heavy shaking in the entire engine. It looked like it was coming from 1 of 4 spots.

1) I think this is the IACV? It was shaking pretty heavily.
2) I believe the EGR passages are back here, regardless, it was heavily shaking.
3) The distributor; It was shaking pretty heavily.
4) Alternator; It had a squeal when I turned on the A/C & it also sounded like it was hesitant to work.



Which one of these is most likely to cause low RPMs & stalling while idle?

1) I think this is the IACV? It was shaking pretty heavily.

big thing, by the throttle body, bolted no the intake manifold, so it shouldn't be shaking


2) I believe the EGR passages are back here, regardless, it was heavily shaking.

Also on intake manifold, below the fuel rail, might have bolt-on covers


3) The distributor; It was shaking pretty heavily.

Also bolted on the engine, but it has the most movement from it's location to the mounts. But -GENTLY- grab the plug wires. Like you're giving the car a 'handy', sliding back and forth, no shocks, right?

4) Alternator; It had a squeal when I turned on the A/C & it also sounded like it was hesitant to work.

It normally is, usually a slight hesitation the first time they need to build pressure

--------------------

It sounds like it only happens when WARM, right?

Well, anyway, it kinda points to EGR staying open when it should close...it can only open when warm...But you should still get it when it's been cold, cause it still shouldn't close...then maybe caused by a 'bind' which can only happen hot...see any lines in the piston bore? It stalls because you don't have enough gasoline for the air.

Second, would be IACV, you cleaned that, right? Every thing good there? This wouldn't open when it should, just stuck closed.

Basically, there are a FEW other options, you really need a OBD reader, most of this stuff also has position sensors, so we have to get into that to see what doesn't line up.

The IACV is located on the back of the intake manifold. What you have circled is the MAP sensor. You may want to pull the intake manifold and clean the EGR port beneath it and clean the IAC while you are at that. It will be simpler to remove it when the entire intake manifold is off the car.

Do you have a code reader?

Also, there is a green connector on the side of the alternator covered by black rubber. There is a diode in that circuit that is known to go bad and cause misfires. You may try disconnecting that connector while engine is running. See if that affects performance, namely, do the misfires stop? If you have a P1381 code, you should replace the alternator.



Circled in red is the connector I'm referring to.

Not common as far as I'm concerned on these cars but maybe your EGR valve has failed altogether? Wouldn't know without codes.

Flashing MIL(check engine) is damage to catalytic converter, usually like everyone is saying a misfire, as for your low idle it could also be something with your IAC