How do I fix my retrofit?

pyaarawala

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I was hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. One of my Toyota Denso ballasts' pos/neg metal protrusion things (not sure of the name) came right off with the wire harness that was made for me years ago, so I think it's totally screwed. I tried soldering it back in and it worked but the ballast was overheating so I decided to get a new ballast.

Only thing is, I'm sick of connecting the positive and negatives individually the way my ballasts came and the way my wiring harness was made to accomodate it, so I want to switch over to those clip-on adaptors. If I buy a new ballast like this one (see link below) that comes with the adaptor that simply clicks on (vs. having to manually put the pos and neg part on), how would I go about attaching it to the wiring harness? Or is there a way I can just buy a completely new wiring harness or is that not necessary?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-D2S-D2R...6209e0&pid=100677&rk=9&rkt=44&sd=302126629767

Thanks!





 

SupraGuy

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You could see if the guys at yota connectors can get you the correct plug for the ballast. (I usually only see these guys sourced for ECU wiring connectors, but they may know where to source them.)

Alternately, you can try the boneyards for wiring harnesses, and make your own. (Probably what I'd do.)
 

pyaarawala

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Thanks, SupraGuy.

What if I were to buy two of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koito-DENSO...ash=item4cfc154eb8:g:Y4AAAOSwAPlXgHXU&vxp=mtr), and plug each toyota denso ballast into the 9006 connector slot that comes stock with the accord? My current wiring harness has:

1) On both sides, a negative wire that goes to ground and negative to the ballast.
2) A positive wire that goes into the positive of one ballast and reaches across the engine bay and goes into the positive of the other ballast.
3) A relay box where everything goes into, and then it connects to the 9006 slot on one side only, while the other side's 9006 slot remains untouched.

Why can't I simply use the above wire to connect each ballast individually to the 9006 slots and forget the positive/negative wiring? Or even the relay.
 

SupraGuy

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Personally, I don't see a need for the relay.

Sometimes people make some crazy assumptions. I'd look over the wiring diagram, and see, but in general HIDs are lower wattage than the incandescent lamps, so the current requirements are often more than feasible with factory wiring provisions. I also strongly suspect that people take marketing hype more to heart than they really should. I also dislike HID retrofits, so make of that what you will.

I haven't looked at the circuit diagrams, but I see nothing wrong with just connecting the ballasts to the 9006 wiring, given that the factory wiring must be able to provide adequate current for the higher wattage lamps.
 
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