I was never able to find one specifically for the cg6 and the F20b. They sell plenty of Obd2 to Obd1 jumper harnesses and I bought one and basically threw it away because it wasnt even close in terms of wiring. If you make your own harness you can be sure any mistakes are on you and the harness isnt defective. I basically grabbed an f20b pinout, a p28 pinout and bought a cheap jumper harness off amazon. Then I pulled all the wires and pins out, added more OEM wire to each wire and made a 2 foot harness so there is less stress on the wires and pins. I also have plenty of space to check my wiring without having to unplug and inspect.
I went with factory mounts as well, I had innovative black when I had my H23 and while they were nice I got tired of feeling every grain of sand in the road. My p28 has the IACV disabled and (maybe) as a result since my ect isnt wired up yet my idle is like 450 and the car dies if it idles too long. Thats the only issue ive seen so far. Im pretty sure you can bore out the cylinders and use aftermarket pistons because they are iron. Wouldnt use any H22 blocks as FRM sleeves dont readily accept after market pistons and the block would need to be resleeved. Also, i've told a few people but make sure all your clearances are to the T. Like within .00001 of an inch because anything over honda's designated clearances in the crank (.0016 I think) and bearings (same clearance) the motor wont last long ( especially with boost). Deck height might be the same but stroke and bore need to be correct as well.
I think if you go that route you could potentially grenade that motor as most people with well built hybrids do. My suggestion is to keep factory internals and just upgrade the rods and pistons for low compression. It saves money and unnecessary complication lol. Not doubting your ability. I just dont want to see another hybrid explode after 10,000 miles lol.
when you done i would like to see your harness........
looks good I would like one........
swap 6thgenAccord(h23vtec/f20b).......1 day=happy customer......
Ive done plenty.....its simple..... i keep it simple
top 2 problems I time and time and time again
when you order a stepdown harness cheap or not if its wrong......
its wrong.......some many ppl i know talk bad about it but.......
so you need a obd2b or obd2a to obd1 harness.......
50/50 % on getting it right......guess thats why they be havin 2 or stars lmao
OBD2B
• 2000-2001 Acura Integra
• 1999-2000 Honda Civic
• 1998-2002 Honda Accord
OBD2A
• 1996-1999 Acura Integra
• 1996-1998 Honda Civic
• 1996-2001 Honda Prelude
• 1996-1997 Honda Accord
2nd problem this had me stuck like 90 days lol.......
98-99 Accord Temp. Gauge ran off of two sensors the ECT(two wiring plug) and Sending unit (single plug
00-22 Accord Temp. Gauge ran off of one sensor the ECT
- To get the gauge to work in the 00-02 accord you will need 98-99 Cluster and wiring harness or wiring in plug................
F20B/H23A Vtec/H22a4 = Honda OBD2 engine
These have all same deck height.......
problem is different bore/stroke........
Im keeping the bore/stroke (crank/rods/pistions)combo.......
just putting in a honda sleeved blocked(F20B)
Like you said.....IF the specs are right.......well built engine.....
wrong......BOOM.......these are just ideas for now.........
If i had more time(3 kids,Wife,Jobs,then CARS)I build it but either way the F20B is getting bored...(found aftermarket rods and pistons for 1100)....to at least 87mm wanted 90mm all motor with a shot of 75 wet shot........ but my machinist said.......I do it cause you crazy enough to try it and I wanna see it.....(Drinking and working on cars at the same time with friends) weird conversations pursue but waste of money and time.......but good convo tho......lmao