truWarier02
Well-Known Member
Is your lip made of polyurethane? If so, did you add a coat of flex agent beforehand to help with the adhesion? Without it your paint will crack when the lip flexes.
What did you do today Auto Detailing related?
- Thread starter CG6Lemon
- Start date
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Its Abs plastic. OEM front lip ^
truWarier02
Well-Known Member
Nice! Way better looking than the BaysonR version... It's actually pretty durable too.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Washed and waxed for impending doom/winter. Will be switching wheels soon. 
Used Meg's soap and wax. I've always wished SMR had some flake, but when clean it really gleams in the sun.
Used Meg's soap and wax. I've always wished SMR had some flake, but when clean it really gleams in the sun.
Last edited:
truWarier02
Well-Known Member
Looks good, Chris. Paint your A-Spec's gold, that way you won't miss your VS-XX's too much haha.
Did you use Ultimate Quik Wax spray or Paste Wax?
Did you use Ultimate Quik Wax spray or Paste Wax?
Jordan_H
Well-Known Member
Awhile ago I had painted my accord wagon and it looked really good and the come out the next day it looks like this.
Left in the sun for a couple hours and now it looks like this
Do you think there's anyway to fix this so I don't need to repaint it? Maybe wetsand and polish?
Left in the sun for a couple hours and now it looks like this
Do you think there's anyway to fix this so I don't need to repaint it? Maybe wetsand and polish?
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Hah good idea Davis. I used this:
I also have this one...not sure what the difference is exactly, car is always clean before waxing anyway.
Brad2274
Well-Known Member
that's bizzare, was it the day after you painted it this happened or are you saying this just now happened? what process did you use to paint, like single stage or 2? also what does the surface feel like?
Jordan_H
Well-Known Member
This is the day after it got painted I just now decided to post this on here. I didn't paint it, my dad did, but it was a 2 stage. I just think it's weird because after the clear was sprayed it looked awesome and I come out the next day and this is how this door looked. There's a tiny spot on the other door and hood but nothing like this door. As for the feel it feels like a car with a matte paint job
CG6Lemon
Detailing Enthusiast
Sorry for not being responsive lately. I have some personal problems I was dealing with. I am okay now.
Painting a plastic part requires a different process compared to aluminum or metal. The main reason is the bonding issue you are dealing with. I'm not going to go into it very specific but I can tell you the process the shop I work for uses. Basically, the lip's surface is flat and smooth, and in order for paint to stick, it requires "valleys" to stick/bond to that's why you sanded the lip. I would recommend using a harsher grit to start. Something like 320grit would be a good starting point. Then work your way up to 800.
Afterwards, use a dedicated solvent for preparing plastic parts to be painted to wipe the surface. Then, apply flex agent, and adhesive promoter to give the paint "anchors" to stick to. Then apply your primer, base coat, clear. If possible, try to paint the lip when the temperature is at least 55 degrees or higher. Some paint can be very temperature sensitive and in general spraying parts in a heated booth is better than a non heated booth.
Thanks for chiming in Davis. I can always count on you for your input.
Looking good Chris!
Can you explain your paint process step by step? And your painting environment? Location, temperatures, what type of spraying method, rattle can or gun? I need more info first before diving head in. Thanks.
Nice products Chris. I still have those 2 products stored somewhere back when the labels were different. The first bottle is wax. Nothing more, nothing less. It adds a sacrificial barrier for your paint from elements. Now the second product is almost the same, but with a couple extra attributes. It has mild cleaners in the wax to get rid of minor imperfections and adds minor protection. If your paint needs a little cleaning then use the 2nd one. Otherwise, use the first one for monthly waxing.
Good questions for the OP.
A proper paint job's feel/texture should not feel like a matte paint job. From that sentence/information, proper prep was not taken into account.
Painting a plastic part requires a different process compared to aluminum or metal. The main reason is the bonding issue you are dealing with. I'm not going to go into it very specific but I can tell you the process the shop I work for uses. Basically, the lip's surface is flat and smooth, and in order for paint to stick, it requires "valleys" to stick/bond to that's why you sanded the lip. I would recommend using a harsher grit to start. Something like 320grit would be a good starting point. Then work your way up to 800.
Afterwards, use a dedicated solvent for preparing plastic parts to be painted to wipe the surface. Then, apply flex agent, and adhesive promoter to give the paint "anchors" to stick to. Then apply your primer, base coat, clear. If possible, try to paint the lip when the temperature is at least 55 degrees or higher. Some paint can be very temperature sensitive and in general spraying parts in a heated booth is better than a non heated booth.
Thanks for chiming in Davis. I can always count on you for your input.
Washed and waxed for impending doom/winter. Will be switching wheels soon.
Used Meg's soap and wax. I've always wished SMR had some flake, but when clean it really gleams in the sun.
Looking good Chris!
Awhile ago I had painted my accord wagon and it looked really good and the come out the next day it looks like this.
Left in the sun for a couple hours and now it looks like this
Do you think there's anyway to fix this so I don't need to repaint it? Maybe wetsand and polish?
Can you explain your paint process step by step? And your painting environment? Location, temperatures, what type of spraying method, rattle can or gun? I need more info first before diving head in. Thanks.
Hah good idea Davis. I used this:
I also have this one...not sure what the difference is exactly, car is always clean before waxing anyway.
Nice products Chris. I still have those 2 products stored somewhere back when the labels were different. The first bottle is wax. Nothing more, nothing less. It adds a sacrificial barrier for your paint from elements. Now the second product is almost the same, but with a couple extra attributes. It has mild cleaners in the wax to get rid of minor imperfections and adds minor protection. If your paint needs a little cleaning then use the 2nd one. Otherwise, use the first one for monthly waxing.
Good questions for the OP.
A proper paint job's feel/texture should not feel like a matte paint job. From that sentence/information, proper prep was not taken into account.
