Intermittent complete loss of all electric power

njmodi

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Stats: 2002 F23A1 4cyl Accord 4dr EX 5spd, 191k, No CEL set.

Recent maintenance (all OEM): plus, wires, rotor, distributor cap/seal, cleaned TB, cleaned IACV, routine oil changes, rebuit OEM injectors.

Even prior to the ignition system tune-up, I noticed that on a couple of occasions that when I got in the car to start it there was no power. Even the keyless remote didn't respond. No lights when I turned the key, etc. Then after a few tries with the key, all of a sudden everything is normal. Every time this happens, it's like a complete battery disconnect. The clock resets, radio needs code re-entered, etc.

There is no pattern to this (has happened on cold start, hot start, etc.). It might happen twice in a week and then not happen for 2 months. It has happened once or twice while driving, where the car looses power and then suddenly turns itself back on.

I replaced the ignition switch maybe 5 years ago... would a faulty ignition switch would cut power to the entire car (simulating a battery disconnect)?

Or is this possibly something else (main relay, etc.)?

Thanks.
 

xci.ed6

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Main relay only works when key turned, key only handles 'key on' aka accessory, not 'key off' power. Iirc

Check cables, both of 'em, and both ends, even rmv battery cable connectors and check those for corrosion, and, if new 'bolt-to-clamp-on-wire, remove wire (by loosening bolts) check there too.

You will have to lmk if that's ok, next is harder, not worth the 5min /\ takes.
 

njmodi

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Main relay only works when key turned, key only handles 'key on' aka accessory, not 'key off' power. Iirc

Check cables, both of 'em, and both ends, even rmv battery cable connectors and check those for corrosion, and, if new 'bolt-to-clamp-on-wire, remove wire (by loosening bolts) check there too.

You will have to lmk if that's ok, next is harder, not worth the 5min /\ takes.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that. Would a a bad connection to the battery affect the car once it's started as far as power is concerned? I would expect all electrical power come from the alternator at that point.

Since this is so intermittent - the only way I know it's fixed is if it doesn't happen for a few months.
 
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xci.ed6

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No, it shouldn't, alt should cover it...

Alt should join batt pwr same place it goes there, some cars, batt term, iirc ours meets at fuse block.

With both happening, loosing pwr, at the same time, I'd think at the joined point. Ground is also together, I'd suspect where gnd connects to the chassis, or where all 3 meet, the batt conector.

Imagine all like a 'Y'

Battery------\
........................O---body harness/gnd
Alternator---/

The 'O' is probly your prob
 

njmodi

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No, it shouldn't, alt should cover it...

Alt should join batt pwr same place it goes there, some cars, batt term, iirc ours meets at fuse block.

With both happening, loosing pwr, at the same time, I'd think at the joined point. Ground is also together, I'd suspect where gnd connects to the chassis, or where all 3 meet, the batt conector.

Imagine all like a 'Y'

Battery------\
........................O---body harness/gnd
Alternator---/

The 'O' is probly your prob

Thanks. This is helpful. I'll take a look at all the connection points for corrosion/poor contact.
 

james'99

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+1 on xci.ed6's thought. Sounds like a grounding issue. If it weren't a grounding issue and it were related to the ignition switch, you wouldn't expect everything to shut off, just the engine more than likely and gauges. Stereo and all else would probably remain on.
 

gsrteg

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Is there power to your accessories when you turn the key on to the first position? So it only cuts the power off when you try to crank the key ignition? And when you replaced the ignition switch w/ cables, was it OEM or aftermarket?
 

teflondan

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I had this same problem with my 99 LX, it's the wire harness part of the ignition switch, not the key cylinder itself but the wiring part that connects to the key cylinder on the end opposite the key.
 

xci.ed6

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Never did my key switch, others oem key @ oem dealer. turn key -on- any -off- that should be -on-, lots of possibilitys, but start at ign key pretty much.

But yes, the key goes:
OFF
Acc
Acc+Run
Run+Start

There is no ACC + Start
 

drcliff

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There was an ignition switch TSB for our cars. Mine was acting just like you described, and I asked the dealer to 'TSB' my car. 45 minutes and no charge later, I had a new ign switch and never had the problem again.
 
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