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  #21  
Old 11-17-2011, 09:26 AM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Oh to have a 1.5 car sized garage.

It would make my life so much easier as well.

Always appreciate seeing people doing their own work on their engines. Definately an inspiration.

I hear you about keeping and tinkering with your car, mine is paid off as well, and to me, makes much more sense to work on it rather than get rid of it. It will be relegated to weekend warrior status eventually, so I don't mind hanging on to it for as long as I can.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:43 PM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

It's out! And so is my left arm for the time being...




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  #23  
Old 11-18-2011, 12:40 AM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Originally Posted by AFAccord View Post
Yeah? The block is getting line bored, but whats' the relation between that and the main studs?

Because MAIN studs go in the girdle that hold the crank..

HEAD studs are what hold the head down, if you just had a simple typo then no need in a line bore/hone. But main studs will oval the bearing spots in the block because of the clamping force differences, hence the need for line hone/bore. However I usually use stock main bolts unless its big big power...
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:44 AM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Nope, I WAS actually referring to main studs. I think I understand what you're saying though. So I'll need to give the shop the studs to torque down before the line bore? My power goals are listed in the first post, around 310whp is the max I'm considering at this point.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:05 AM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Originally Posted by AFAccord View Post
Nope, I WAS actually referring to main studs. I think I understand what you're saying though. So I'll need to give the shop the studs to torque down before the line bore? My power goals are listed in the first post, around 310whp is the max I'm considering at this point.
Ok, well I have seen some people mix up the terminology.

You should have the machine shop install main studs, torque to spec then check for roundness. However you really don't need the main studs. ( I didn't run them in my setup) If you don't do that you will end up eating up the mains.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:24 AM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Em, if only you still had your Accord....a head to head would have been nice to see once this project is done.
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:51 PM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Originally Posted by SykVSyx View Post
Em, if only you still had your Accord....a head to head would have been nice to see once this project is done.
lol, Like I said earlier, I'm really not out to do anything that hasn't already been done here. I am exploring other possible options for pistons and rods, but nothing ground breaking. Besides, I don't have access to anywhere near the resources that Em does at his shop.

On that note, even though our large stroke engines don't lose too much by dropping compression, I really would prefer not to go down to 8.5. I'm curious whether some Wiseco forged 9:1 K20 pistons would fit without clearance issues. If they did, it would bring the F up to an even 10:1, which is closer to what I'd like. Guess I'll be mock-fitting my stock K20 pistons here soon. If they can fit without issue, then it might be safe to assume the Wisecos will fit too. Any idea about this Em?
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:43 PM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

It was more of a vision I had, Jason.

We don't often see(if ever) built Accords going head to head.

I think it would make for a very cool story.

Back to your build, I don't recall reading, will you be doing any wire tucks as well?
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:52 PM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

Originally Posted by AFAccord View Post
lol, Like I said earlier, I'm really not out to do anything that hasn't already been done here. I am exploring other possible options for pistons and rods, but nothing ground breaking. Besides, I don't have access to anywhere near the resources that Em does at his shop.

On that note, even though our large stroke engines don't lose too much by dropping compression, I really would prefer not to go down to 8.5. I'm curious whether some Wiseco forged 9:1 K20 pistons would fit without clearance issues. If they did, it would bring the F up to an even 10:1, which is closer to what I'd like. Guess I'll be mock-fitting my stock K20 pistons here soon. If they can fit without issue, then it might be safe to assume the Wisecos will fit too. Any idea about this Em?
I was going to buy those 10.5:1 pistons someone has for sale on here and throw them in my boosted motor, it would be ****ing awesome.

I haven't tried putting K series pistons in an F23 yet, but if the compression height is not too much different, and there is no pin offset It would probably work. I would be more concerned with them fitting good on the rod, since you are using stock rods which are press fit wrist pins, and the pistons will come with a non press fit design wrist pin.

I would also hone your rods if you are doing rod bolts which I hope, The only thing you are going to do is bend the rod in the future, simply because they are very thin and weak.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:09 PM
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Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

None of the forged pistons I've found run a wrist pin offset. K20 pistons are the same 30mm comp height, and same wrist pin as F23's. Even the rods have nearly identical specs, except they're 2mm shorter. I was certain F23's use floating 22mm wrist pins just like the K20, am I incorrect??
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