Car dies while driving randomly. Radio still seems to work

Ok, so here's a short story.

I've had the P0420 code and another code, P1259 I think but forgot.
My car started acting up recently and first time was dying on highway. Took me several tries to start back up after pulling over. Second time was local road and could've hit somebody as there was a turn coming up and the steering wheel went out w the car. Was able to start it back up after several tries as well. I can't remember for sure but I think the radio went out as well.
Later found out that the battery wire to power the car got disconnected somehow. Also the distributor was leaking so I replaced that whole part.
That fixed the codes except for P0420. I know it's most likely the cat and I have a mangnaflow that I'll have a shop put in tuesday since one bolt is stuck and I dont have tools to take that last bolt out.
So it has been driving fine without dying for the past 1-2 weeks until today it died again. BUT this time I was able to start it back up without trouble. Also the radio was still on...... with ac and fan going.

So now that I'm confused on what's causing my engine to shut off during middle of driving.
Could it be the ignition switch??

99 honda accord 4cycl 189k miles automatic

Has your car had the ignition recall done?


Also, when the car shuts off, the power steering goes...not the steering wheel. Just means you have to man up and steer the car.

fastflyinaccord said:

Has your car had the ignition recall done?


Also, when the car shuts off, the power steering goes...not the steering wheel. Just means you have to man up and steer the car.

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yea i meant the steering, was typing this too fast to think.

im not sure actually, i just looked that up 30 mins ago on google and there seems to be a recall on it. could i test it by taking the key out while car is on d4?

The test I use involves a couple of spare light bulbs.

Tap them into key functions.

One to fuel pump power

One to ignition coil power

One to fuel injector power

One to ECM power

Some of these are supplied from the same source, and you can also just use one light bulb, switching between different power sources.

Drive around till it dies, if the bulb goes out-there's your problem. If it doesn't, try somewhere else. You can also tap on things with a stick while doing this, generally, when you tap the broken part, the car will die. The light bulb helps to verify.

xci.ed6 said:

The test I use involves a couple of spare light bulbs.

Tap them into key functions.

One to fuel pump power

One to ignition coil power

One to fuel injector power

One to ECM power

Some of these are supplied from the same source, and you can also just use one light bulb, switching between different power sources.

Drive around till it dies, if the bulb goes out-there's your problem. If it doesn't, try somewhere else. You can also tap on things with a stick while doing this, generally, when you tap the broken part, the car will die. The light bulb helps to verify.

Click to expand...

'ECM was replaced about 20k miles ago so i don't think that's it. Could also possible rule out the ignition coil for now since distributor was replaced. I'm gonna try replacing the ignition switch first tomorrow, well I'll do that continuity test on it first then see.

The light is to make sure power is getting to the coil.

And your problem is intermittent, so it's unlikely a continuity test will find the problem. Not impossible, but unlikely.

xci.ed6 said:

The light is to make sure power is getting to the coil.

And your problem is intermittent, so it's unlikely a continuity test will find the problem. Not impossible, but unlikely.

Click to expand...

that is true, what did you use to wire the bulb to these parts? I'm guessing you connect the bulbs to the fuses where the parts are assigned to?

I had a problem like this. My alt belt was split in half

LowerMyCG5 said:

I had a problem like this. My alt belt was split in half

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if it were the belt, my car probably wouldn't have been able to start long time ago. it starts up perfectly every time.

some big maintenance were done around 150 or 160k miles, including spark plugs, all fluids, coolant, etc. I've also cleaned the throttle, ran lots of fuel cleaners, and used 2-3 bottles of seafoam in the past year.

i really need to replace the catalyic converter though, the new o2 sensors got rid of the p0420 code for a while but it came back eventually so i'm sure it's the cat this time. if i have time i'll probably try to heat up that last bolt and remove it so i don't have to wait till tuesday for a shop.

I had to jump it , but it would run then die while it was rolling. I had to put it in gear and pip the clutch to jump it while moving.

Try the main relay

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