joshgil117
New Member
Hi I'm new to the forum and I'm looking at replaceing my exhaust system on my 2001 ex ULEV. My question is can/do I need to replace my ecu so that I can get a high flow cat or am I stuck with a California leagel cat?
2001 ULEV conversion (exhaust swap)
- Thread starter joshgil117
- Start date
Re: 2001 ULEV conversion
Welcome to the forum first off, I don't know which state exactly you're in because removing your cat or changing it affects the car passing emission test. Installing a high flow cat is pointless on a ULEV engine due to loosing back pressure, check engine light coming on if not fowl properly. High flow cat work best on turbocharge engine not low compression 4 cylinder engines. Some high flow cat is 100 cells, 200 cells etc... These normally look like a honeycomb on the inside. As for Ecu, if you just go from a 2" exhaust system to 2.5" the stock Ecu wont do anything with new mods especially for automatic. The fake eBay performance chips wont help you neither. Go on YouTube and watch Mighty Car Mods videos on cold air intake, installing high flow cat on his Subaru. And do a lot of research because the Pros on this forum wont answer your question if you don't research first. Good luck!
Welcome to the forum first off, I don't know which state exactly you're in because removing your cat or changing it affects the car passing emission test. Installing a high flow cat is pointless on a ULEV engine due to loosing back pressure, check engine light coming on if not fowl properly. High flow cat work best on turbocharge engine not low compression 4 cylinder engines. Some high flow cat is 100 cells, 200 cells etc... These normally look like a honeycomb on the inside. As for Ecu, if you just go from a 2" exhaust system to 2.5" the stock Ecu wont do anything with new mods especially for automatic. The fake eBay performance chips wont help you neither. Go on YouTube and watch Mighty Car Mods videos on cold air intake, installing high flow cat on his Subaru. And do a lot of research because the Pros on this forum wont answer your question if you don't research first. Good luck!
Re: 2001 ULEV conversion
Just to add OBDII cars don't do smog test so changing or modifying your cat will just irritate the o2 sensor and throw you a CEL. That is how you will not pass an emission test. Again you can use a o2 sensor fowler. Also your car is a low emission vehicle so its hard to get any ponies from while staying legal.
The OBD II Home Page - On-Board Diagnostic System Information
Autotap® OBDII Diagnostic Scanner
OBD II AND EMISSIONS TESTING
"Are you up to speed on OBD II? You should be because starting in 2002, a number of states have announced plans to change their emissions testing programs over to OBD II.
Instead of doing a tailpipe emissions check on a dynamometer, an OBD II check is a simple plug-in test that takes only seconds. What’s more, OBD II will detect emissions problems that might not cause a vehicle to fail a tailpipe test - which means emissions test failures under the OBD II test programs are expected to be significantly higher.
The second-generation self-diagnostic emissions software has been required on all new vehicles sold in this country since model year 1996, including all imports. OBD II is a powerful diagnostic tool that can give you insight into what’s actually happening within the engine control system."
Just to add OBDII cars don't do smog test so changing or modifying your cat will just irritate the o2 sensor and throw you a CEL. That is how you will not pass an emission test. Again you can use a o2 sensor fowler. Also your car is a low emission vehicle so its hard to get any ponies from while staying legal.
The OBD II Home Page - On-Board Diagnostic System Information
Autotap® OBDII Diagnostic Scanner
OBD II AND EMISSIONS TESTING
"Are you up to speed on OBD II? You should be because starting in 2002, a number of states have announced plans to change their emissions testing programs over to OBD II.
Instead of doing a tailpipe emissions check on a dynamometer, an OBD II check is a simple plug-in test that takes only seconds. What’s more, OBD II will detect emissions problems that might not cause a vehicle to fail a tailpipe test - which means emissions test failures under the OBD II test programs are expected to be significantly higher.
The second-generation self-diagnostic emissions software has been required on all new vehicles sold in this country since model year 1996, including all imports. OBD II is a powerful diagnostic tool that can give you insight into what’s actually happening within the engine control system."
joshgil117
New Member
As for where I'm located I live in Wisconsin and plan in registering in a county that doesn't smog test. I've tried reaching but couldn't find anything about swapping the cat. My plan is to turbo it in the spring so I'm trying to build up for the turbo and my main question is if I replaced the ULEV cat with a non ULEV what steps would I have to take to keep the ecu happy? The cost of ULEV part is ridiculous so I don't want to waste money on them unless I have no other options.
agginline86
Well-Known Member
As a california transplant who came from wisconsin, you are a lucky SOB lol. CARB is ridiculous....
If you're going to turbo it, you will need a new ECU anyway, no? Why not wait until then. The ULEV F23A1 is 150 hp, the same as the other F23s so you aren't missing out. The major restrictions in your exhaust will be your headers. The downpipe has an inner pipe that is really restricted. Performance gains won't be noticeable, but headers, downpipe and your intake best bets for opening her up. Using the defouler trick on the secondary O2 sensor should prevent you from throwing a CEL if you do decide to go with a high flow cat. If it's not a smog issue, the CEL for the secondary O2 sensor will not affect how your car drives. As long as having the CEL on constantly doesn't bother you, you could swap the cat out now.
Last edited:
joshgil117
"As for where I'm located I live in Wisconsin and plan in registering in a county that doesn't smog test. I've tried reaching but couldn't find anything about swapping the cat. My plan is to turbo it in the spring so I'm trying to build up for the turbo and my main question is if I replaced the ULEV cat with a non ULEV what steps would I have to take to keep the ecu happy? The cost of ULEV part is ridiculous so I don't want to waste money on them unless I have no other options."
Okay, this forum welcomes any type of budget build without discrimination not saying your poor but I will help you to achieve your goal.
If you was to follow agginline86 suggestion you wont get as much HP gains as you imagined because some cars respond to aftermarket air intake & exhaust better than some does like the Honda s2000 respond well with 15-20 HP gains. I cant tell you a exact number in HP your car will make with just intake and free flowing exhaust because I don't know how healthy your car is. It's been said our cars make 150 Hp stock from the factory but it doesn't mean after 15 years it still makes a 150 HP.
1st rule is to decide if you want to go boost or N/A car because horse power cost money by the dollars.
2nd you didn't specify if your car is automatic or 5 speed manual.
3rd If your car is a 5 speed manual here's the veggies:
Very Very Very important to go read this please http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
Bees and goats will give you an idea as to the basic setup.
Next watch this
Next step is to search this forum because we have so much turbo builds done even new threads with the same ULEV engine.
Tomorrow I will dig up the old and new threads to give you some precise parts information. But before I do please give me and idea of how much Horsepower you want to achieve?
"As for where I'm located I live in Wisconsin and plan in registering in a county that doesn't smog test. I've tried reaching but couldn't find anything about swapping the cat. My plan is to turbo it in the spring so I'm trying to build up for the turbo and my main question is if I replaced the ULEV cat with a non ULEV what steps would I have to take to keep the ecu happy? The cost of ULEV part is ridiculous so I don't want to waste money on them unless I have no other options."
Okay, this forum welcomes any type of budget build without discrimination not saying your poor but I will help you to achieve your goal.
If you was to follow agginline86 suggestion you wont get as much HP gains as you imagined because some cars respond to aftermarket air intake & exhaust better than some does like the Honda s2000 respond well with 15-20 HP gains. I cant tell you a exact number in HP your car will make with just intake and free flowing exhaust because I don't know how healthy your car is. It's been said our cars make 150 Hp stock from the factory but it doesn't mean after 15 years it still makes a 150 HP.
1st rule is to decide if you want to go boost or N/A car because horse power cost money by the dollars.
2nd you didn't specify if your car is automatic or 5 speed manual.
3rd If your car is a 5 speed manual here's the veggies:
Very Very Very important to go read this please http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
Bees and goats will give you an idea as to the basic setup.
Next watch this
- video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHPGCOOmH0Y
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sfeuy7E1tg
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXrNaRuL_oY
Next step is to search this forum because we have so much turbo builds done even new threads with the same ULEV engine.
Tomorrow I will dig up the old and new threads to give you some precise parts information. But before I do please give me and idea of how much Horsepower you want to achieve?
Last edited:
joshgil117
New Member
I have the 5 speed and I would like to get close to 250. I just bought a car for my wife and decided to turn my accord into a project so I'm trying to slowly build up around a turbo which is why I didn't want to waste money on parts i don't need such as a $500 cat.
Last edited:
Cheap build:
Warning: make sure to service and check your car health first before to attempt any modification.
Vortech FMU 12:1 ratio
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Synapse missing link
Wide band o2 sensor
Boost gauge
T3T4 your year car turbo manifold
50/57ar trim china charger or brand name one. Don't use 48/50ar or 57/63ar if your car is 2.3l
Wastegate/ DO NOT GO PASS 5 PSI because you are gonna use you stock injectors.
Blow off valve
Ngk sparks plug and wires
35/38mm wastegate dump tube/ Make sure to use tial small red spring
Treadstone-Performance-Honda-Accord-F22-FMIC-Intercooler-Piping-Kit OR make your own custom intercooler kit.
PCV vent filter
Cone air filter for the turbo
Gauge pod for your year car or buy universal 2 inch pods.
Turbo timer if you want.
Oil catch can
Complete t3t4 turbo oil lines
After market high flow catalytic converter and 2.5" exhaust system to spool up the china charger or a Better brand.
OEM downstream o2 sensor extension wire and clips
Turbo down pipe or make your own custom one
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
You will have to upgrade your stock clutch and flywheel
Service your brake system
I will instruct you on the build setup after gathering all the parts.
My car has all these parts courtesy of Ebay
and is boosted just the way I'm showing you so dont worry about blowing your motor up. Again just make sure your car is healthy.
For mild setup( piggyback) and pro setup (p28ecu hondata s300) I will touch bases on those tomorrow because I leave for work now.
Warning: make sure to service and check your car health first before to attempt any modification.
Vortech FMU 12:1 ratio
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Synapse missing link
Wide band o2 sensor
Boost gauge
T3T4 your year car turbo manifold
50/57ar trim china charger or brand name one. Don't use 48/50ar or 57/63ar if your car is 2.3l
Wastegate/ DO NOT GO PASS 5 PSI because you are gonna use you stock injectors.
Blow off valve
Ngk sparks plug and wires
35/38mm wastegate dump tube/ Make sure to use tial small red spring
Treadstone-Performance-Honda-Accord-F22-FMIC-Intercooler-Piping-Kit OR make your own custom intercooler kit.
PCV vent filter
Cone air filter for the turbo
Gauge pod for your year car or buy universal 2 inch pods.
Turbo timer if you want.
Oil catch can
Complete t3t4 turbo oil lines
After market high flow catalytic converter and 2.5" exhaust system to spool up the china charger or a Better brand.
OEM downstream o2 sensor extension wire and clips
Turbo down pipe or make your own custom one
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
You will have to upgrade your stock clutch and flywheel
Service your brake system
I will instruct you on the build setup after gathering all the parts.
My car has all these parts courtesy of Ebay
and is boosted just the way I'm showing you so dont worry about blowing your motor up. Again just make sure your car is healthy.For mild setup( piggyback) and pro setup (p28ecu hondata s300) I will touch bases on those tomorrow because I leave for work now.
Last edited:
For a mild turbo setup with some of the parts I listed up top before:
You are gonna use a AEM FIC6(universal but get the one for Honda) or Greddy E-mangement( easier plug and play with h22a motor) system to tune your car
RDX stock fuel injector 410cc flow rate but cheap
My recommendations is the 1G DSM 450cc(cheap too) fuel injector over the RDX ones because they flow at 410cc. If you use these maybe they might require resistors depending on minor factors.
Important! if you choose the AEM FIC as your piggyback system to use, please please use the AEM wideband o2 sensor controller.
With this mild configuration the car can run maximum 11 psi
If you decide to over 10 psi get this 4 Bar MAP and don't cheap out on this
A base map to drive the car to a tuner. If confident enough check out FRY RICE BLOG FOR A DIY BASE TUNE http://friedrice.blogspot.com/2014/06/tuning-aem-fic-fuel-map-steps.html
A dyno tune normally cost $600 up depending on tuner discretion, hourly charge, tune, correction to your **** ups.
You will need to upgrade radiator from 1 row to 2 row for better cooling
Important note: You will have to figure out what type of motor oil to use if the car make over 220 WHP. (This is risky and tricky to figure out due to the oil viscosity)
You will need thermal wrap for the dump tube, downpipe, turbo blanket.
"If you want" add a cheap Home Depot DIY intercooler water sprayer(Pressure Spray Bottle 1 Litre Capacity Sprayer Water Watering Spraying Pump Mist)/ or window washer fluid pump and jets, hose, clamps, zip tie.
For the intercooler sprayer mixture, add 50/50 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and water mixture, DIY tank/reservoir for that half & half mix.
If you want to scare the heck out of your wife in the front seat, mate a H23or H22 type S 5 speed tranny(LSD bro). If you want to keep your stock one its fine its just that f23 tranny make more torque the more HP it makes. And f23 tranny are long geared ratio compared to h22 type S. To mate a H tranny with a F series engine may require small modification but its not hard.
Also ball bearing turbo give you quicker spool than journal bearing and fluctuate steadily at the top end compared to journal bearing.
WARNING I FEEL LIKE I'M MISSING SOMETHING ELSE HERE,
OBD1 P28 VIRGIN ECU(UNMODIFIED BRO)
OBD1 TO OBD2 wire CONVERSION kit
HONDATA S300(BETTER TO BUY IT PRE INSTALLED INTO OBD1 ECU AND PAY ONE MONEY)
Innovate Motorsports 3851 MTX Digital Series Dual Function Vacuum/Boost and Shift Light Gauge Kit
3 PORT BOOST SOLENOID
THROW AWAY YOU EXTERNAL WASTEGATE AND USE A BLOCK OFF PLATE
ASK TUNER FOR BOOST BY GEAR SETUP, THIS WILL GIVE YOU LESS WHEEL SPIN IN 1ST GEAR
WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR UEGO CONTROLLER
1000CC FUEL INJECTOR
AGAIN 4 BAR MAP SENSOR
255 LPH FUEL PUMP
OBD1 FUEL INJECTOR ADAPTERS THAT FIT OBD2
KEEP YOUR STOCK FUEL RAIL IT CAN SUPPORT MAX 350 HP
LISTEN, DO NOT CHEAP OUT IF YOU WANT OVER 250 HP BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED TO UPDATE MANY PARTS ON THE CAR LIKE DRIVE SHAFT, CLUTCH, WHEEL BEARINGS, ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM, RODS & PISTONS, TIMING BELT, CYLINDER HEAD PARTS, FUEL TANK BREATHER, OIL CATCH CAN BREATHER, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AGAIN, INTERCOOLER, TURBOCHARGER, TURBO OIL LINES AN FITTINGS, HOSES, CLAMPS, BOV(blow of valve).
IF YOU COME AT A FORK IN THE ROAD ASK THE GUYS OVER HERE http://www.phearable.net/engine-computers/
IF YOU ATTEMPT ANY BUILD ON YOUR OWN AND YOU BLOW YOUR ENGINE BLAME YOURSELF
AND BE CAREFUL OF SALES RICERZ TELLING YOU WHAT OR WHAT NOT CANT BE USE BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO PURCHASE THEIR PRODUCT INSTEAD.
BYE BYE BYE.
AND AGAIN DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH TO COMPARE MY RICED OUT KNOWLEDGE PLEASE BRO.
You are gonna use a AEM FIC6(universal but get the one for Honda) or Greddy E-mangement( easier plug and play with h22a motor) system to tune your car
RDX stock fuel injector 410cc flow rate but cheap
My recommendations is the 1G DSM 450cc(cheap too) fuel injector over the RDX ones because they flow at 410cc. If you use these maybe they might require resistors depending on minor factors.
Important! if you choose the AEM FIC as your piggyback system to use, please please use the AEM wideband o2 sensor controller.
With this mild configuration the car can run maximum 11 psi
If you decide to over 10 psi get this 4 Bar MAP and don't cheap out on this
A base map to drive the car to a tuner. If confident enough check out FRY RICE BLOG FOR A DIY BASE TUNE http://friedrice.blogspot.com/2014/06/tuning-aem-fic-fuel-map-steps.html
A dyno tune normally cost $600 up depending on tuner discretion, hourly charge, tune, correction to your **** ups.
You will need to upgrade radiator from 1 row to 2 row for better cooling
Important note: You will have to figure out what type of motor oil to use if the car make over 220 WHP. (This is risky and tricky to figure out due to the oil viscosity)
You will need thermal wrap for the dump tube, downpipe, turbo blanket.
"If you want" add a cheap Home Depot DIY intercooler water sprayer(Pressure Spray Bottle 1 Litre Capacity Sprayer Water Watering Spraying Pump Mist)/ or window washer fluid pump and jets, hose, clamps, zip tie.
For the intercooler sprayer mixture, add 50/50 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and water mixture, DIY tank/reservoir for that half & half mix.
If you want to scare the heck out of your wife in the front seat, mate a H23or H22 type S 5 speed tranny(LSD bro). If you want to keep your stock one its fine its just that f23 tranny make more torque the more HP it makes. And f23 tranny are long geared ratio compared to h22 type S. To mate a H tranny with a F series engine may require small modification but its not hard.
Also ball bearing turbo give you quicker spool than journal bearing and fluctuate steadily at the top end compared to journal bearing.
NOW FOR THE BIG BOY STUFF
WARNING I FEEL LIKE I'M MISSING SOMETHING ELSE HERE,
OBD1 P28 VIRGIN ECU(UNMODIFIED BRO)
OBD1 TO OBD2 wire CONVERSION kit
HONDATA S300(BETTER TO BUY IT PRE INSTALLED INTO OBD1 ECU AND PAY ONE MONEY)
Innovate Motorsports 3851 MTX Digital Series Dual Function Vacuum/Boost and Shift Light Gauge Kit
3 PORT BOOST SOLENOID
THROW AWAY YOU EXTERNAL WASTEGATE AND USE A BLOCK OFF PLATE
ASK TUNER FOR BOOST BY GEAR SETUP, THIS WILL GIVE YOU LESS WHEEL SPIN IN 1ST GEAR
WIDEBAND O2 SENSOR UEGO CONTROLLER
1000CC FUEL INJECTOR
AGAIN 4 BAR MAP SENSOR
255 LPH FUEL PUMP
OBD1 FUEL INJECTOR ADAPTERS THAT FIT OBD2
KEEP YOUR STOCK FUEL RAIL IT CAN SUPPORT MAX 350 HP
LISTEN, DO NOT CHEAP OUT IF YOU WANT OVER 250 HP BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED TO UPDATE MANY PARTS ON THE CAR LIKE DRIVE SHAFT, CLUTCH, WHEEL BEARINGS, ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM, RODS & PISTONS, TIMING BELT, CYLINDER HEAD PARTS, FUEL TANK BREATHER, OIL CATCH CAN BREATHER, SUSPENSION, BRAKES AGAIN, INTERCOOLER, TURBOCHARGER, TURBO OIL LINES AN FITTINGS, HOSES, CLAMPS, BOV(blow of valve).
IF YOU COME AT A FORK IN THE ROAD ASK THE GUYS OVER HERE http://www.phearable.net/engine-computers/
IF YOU ATTEMPT ANY BUILD ON YOUR OWN AND YOU BLOW YOUR ENGINE BLAME YOURSELF
AND BE CAREFUL OF SALES RICERZ TELLING YOU WHAT OR WHAT NOT CANT BE USE BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO PURCHASE THEIR PRODUCT INSTEAD.
BYE BYE BYE.
AND AGAIN DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH TO COMPARE MY RICED OUT KNOWLEDGE PLEASE BRO.
Last edited:
