Million mile club

Connie

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Did I ever end up using the generic PS fluid? Yes, I did.

You're not supposed to use that. It can cause chatter in the rack. The seals are engineered for use with the Honda fluid as well. Even the generic manufacturers normally make a Honda-compatible fluid, which is OK to use. It says Acura/Honda right on the bottle, and usually only costs a dollar or so more that the generic stuff.

Also, what you are wiping your fluid with when checking levels isn't worth thinking about this much. As long as the stick is clean when you jam it back in the hole, it's all good. Just like she said. ;). Sometimes I just use my fingers, and wipe them on my pants when I've finished.
 

datechboss101

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You're not supposed to use that. It can cause chatter in the rack. The seals are engineered for use with the Honda fluid as well. Even the generic manufacturers normally make a Honda-compatible fluid, which is OK to use. It says Acura/Honda right on the bottle, and usually only costs a dollar or so more that the generic stuff.

Also, what you are wiping your fluid with when checking levels isn't worth thinking about this much. As long as the stick is clean when you jam it back in the hole, it's all good. Just like she said. ;). Sometimes I just use my fingers, and wipe them on my pants when I've finished.
I do plan on putting the Honda PS fluid in the near future, as stealership is asking way too much for a simple easy job. And there isn't that much chatter in the rack yet, but I will be getting the fluids soon, as black friday is around the corner. And possibly I might do the wheel bearings on Thanksgiving, and having someone press them in so I dont have to make multiple trips for the job.

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Rusty Accord

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You are right. I have never heard of enthusiasts checking fluid levels using microfiber towels. Whether or not that is false, you can use whatever you like. At the end of day, I am glad you you were able to clean up the mess.
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For the cost of those microfiber towels, they stay in the car cleaning bucket with a lid on it to keep out the dust.
For general everything else, I use Scott blue towels on a roll. If you catch an oil change sale at the Zone, they give you a roll, plus some hand cleaner and a drain bucket for 5 bucks. I've got about 4 of those drain pans here.
Normally I'll send the wife over to Sam's Club, and have her pick me up a 12 or 15 pack of those rolls. I get about 8 to 10 months out of the pack of them depending on how busy (or greasy) I am. I use them for everything, from cleaning windows, to wiping down the car with wax and grease remover (right before painting), to cleaning the drain pan after doing an oil change, to just wiping my hands off.
 

Rusty Accord

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You're not supposed to use that. It can cause chatter in the rack. The seals are engineered for use with the Honda fluid as well. Even the generic manufacturers normally make a Honda-compatible fluid, which is OK to use. It says Acura/Honda right on the bottle, and usually only costs a dollar or so more that the generic stuff.

Also, what you are wiping your fluid with when checking levels isn't worth thinking about this much. As long as the stick is clean when you jam it back in the hole, it's all good. Just like she said. ;). Sometimes I just use my fingers, and wipe them on my pants when I've finished.

Yeah, and if you shop around for it on e-bay, you can get it even cheaper. I paid 24.95 (with shipping) for 5 jugs of it. That's basically 5 bucks a jug, which is cheaper than the generic stuff, and it works better.
In my case when the pressure hose developed a split, that was when I changed the wrong fluid in mine to the genuine Honda stuff. I could the difference too.
 

Rusty Accord

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I do plan on putting the Honda PS fluid in the near future, as stealership is asking way too much for a simple easy job. And there isn't that much chatter in the rack yet, but I will be getting the fluids soon, as black friday is around the corner. And possibly I might do the wheel bearings on Thanksgiving, and having someone press them in so I dont have to make multiple trips for the job.

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If the cost of fluids is bothering you, look on e-bay. You'll be surprised at some of the deals that are on there for fluids and genuine parts.
 

datechboss101

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If the cost of fluids is bothering you, look on e-bay. You'll be surprised at some of the deals that are on there for fluids and genuine parts.

The costs for me has to be reasonable, unless if there is a deal or sale going on. I hadn't talked to the parts guy to see how much a bottle of PS fluid costs yet.
 

T.$.Racing

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The costs for me has to be reasonable, unless if there is a deal or sale going on. I hadn't talked to the parts guy to see how much a bottle of PS fluid costs yet.

The cost of everything would be a lot more reasonable if you learn to turn a wrench and start working on the thing yourself. Idk, maybe its me, but it seems weird to talk about "reasonable" cost in regards to the correct fluids for your car, but you bring a 20 year old vehicle in for service at the stealership?

If you plan on putting even 250k on your 6G it would greatly behoove you to start doing any/all work on the thing yourself otherwise you and your pops are going to rack up into the 5 digits maintaining the thing over that duration. You'll save money, know its done right, and it feels a hell of a lot more rewarding getting back into your car and driving it after doing a job on it yourself.
 
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datechboss101

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The cost of everything would be a lot more reasonable if you learn to turn a wrench and start working on the thing yourself. Idk, maybe its me, but it seems weird to talk about "reasonable" cost in regards to the correct fluids for your car, but you bring a 20 year old vehicle in for service at the stealership?

If you plan on putting even 250k on your 6G it would greatly behoove you to start doing any/all work on the thing yourself otherwise you and your pops are going to rack up into the 5 digits maintaining the thing over that duration. You'll save money, know its done right, and it feels a hell of a lot more rewarding getting back into your car and driving it after doing a job on it yourself.
I got the list written for tools needed to get as Harbor Freight has a sale going on right now, and I have to place an order on the wheel bearings w/ hub assembly, probably from rockauto and see if they can arrive to my place by Wednesday. The wheel bearings looks like a pretty easy but time consuming job.

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T.$.Racing

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I got the list written for tools needed to get as Harbor Freight has a sale going on right now, and I have to place an order on the wheel bearings w/ hub assembly, probably from rockauto and see if they can arrive to my place by Wednesday. The wheel bearings looks like a pretty easy but time consuming job.

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We talking front wheel bearings or the rear hubs? If you're doing the fronts I'd get the O.E. pieces from hondapartsnow.com I believe they're around $70 bucks, but well worth it. For the rear hubs Moog or Timken units are decent
 

datechboss101

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We talking front wheel bearings or the rear hubs? If you're doing the fronts I'd get the O.E. pieces from hondapartsnow.com I believe they're around $70 bucks, but well worth it. For the rear hubs Moog or Timken units are decent
I looked at rockauto, and they don't sell the front 4 lug nut wheel bearings at all. The only ones that I found were Autozone's Duralast wheel bearings with hub assembly. Where else should I try? I plan on not going to the mech to get them pressed in.

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