***You can flame me all you want. I need some help***

Hello boys and girls. My accord has been sitting in my garage for about 2 months now. So today, I decided to tackle my howling problem on my drivers side wheel,valve adjustment and Timing belt/water pump.

So I took my drivers side wheel off. Wiggled the rotor forward and backward, it's very tight and does not wiggle at all. Does that mean the bearing is okay? Could it be the bolt that holds the rotor is too tight, causing the sound. My rotors are glazed A little so I will be replacing them with some brembo pads and rotors soon.

I discovered my cotter pin was not on my bolt that holds the rotor and wheel on. This was discovered on both wheels. I assume this is from the shop that did my 5 speed conversion. It seems, I am just finding more half-a$sed things on my car. Is it crucial that it's there, if so, where can I buy two cotter pins.

Please don't comment if you don't know what your talking about. This is only for the more experienced 6thgen members. Tanks

How i found out my bearing was bad was to put it up on a jack and have some one drive it to like 20mph... that side where the bearing is bad would wine really loud... thats how i figured out the bearing on my 5th gen

i dont think you can have a rotor screw thats too tight the screw would be pulverized before bending a rotor...

do you mean there are no cotter pins on the axle nuts? you should be able to find some at a hardware store. yes, it is strongly encouraged that you have them.

ryan s said:

i dont think you can have a rotor screw thats too tight the screw would be pulverized before bending a rotor...

do you mean there are no cotter pins on the axle nuts? you should be able to find some at a hardware store. yes, it is strongly encouraged that you have them.

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When you take off the wheel, you see the rotor and the 4 studs (im a 4 cyl) and in the middle you see the wheel nut and cotter pin. But both cotter pins in both my front wheels are not there. I will put them in, but since I never took them out. I am not sure if they fit in easily.

i hate finding things that the mechanic half a$$es... i feel they should do the job right and the first time.. like if it was their car..

but to you should be able to slap those cotter pins in no prob.. but i noticed you said u took your wheel off to see if your bearing was bad.. try wiggling it with the wheel on.. more leverage to make it move instead of tryin to move a small rotor..

I don't believe I've ever had the cotter pins on the axle nut. As long as you torque down that bolt correctly, you shouldn't have any problems. But yes, any hardware store will have the cotter pins. And if your rotors aren't moving around at all, then they are most likely seized to the hub. Are there any "extra holes" on your rotor that don't seem to be being used for anything? If so, these are so you can thread a bolt through the rotor to pry it off of the hub. You can either go this route to get the rotor off, or.... Hammer-----> Rotor

x2 on not cotter pin in the axle nut... I've never had a castle nut w/ cotter on the 5th gen or 6th gen. It's always been a nut with an extra bit of flange on the top that you beat down into a key hole on the axle.

HondaLuver83 said:

When you take off the wheel, you see the rotor and the 4 studs (im a 4 cyl) and in the middle you see the wheel nut and cotter pin. But both cotter pins in both my front wheels are not there. I will put them in, but since I never took them out. I am not sure if they fit in easily.

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since youre changing the rotors anyway, take the old ones off then slide the cotter pins in.

Well after a little research, it is import to have cotter pins on your axle, its a safety so the bolt does not come off while u are driving. So I will be definitely getting some.

I did wiggle the wheel with the rim/tire on. It didnt budge at all.

Alright fellas thanks for the input. I believe this thread can be closed now. THANKS!

No cotter pin is needed for our car. You just hammer down the flange. Don't buy stuff you don't need.