Excessive Negative Camber

truWarier02

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Front driver side cambers is -1
Passenger front side is -1.4
Driver rear side is -3.7
Passenger rear side is -3.3
Front toe is 0.02. Rear toe is 0.04

Hmm, that's a big difference between front and rear camber specs. You running a front camber kit? Either that or your stance must be like..

b_KYO-40021.jpg
 

Sleeper Cell

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I hope I got this right ...Kevin let me know what you think bro ..I didn't feel like opening a new thread so I posted it in here ..hope its ok ...

Front driver side cambers is -1
Passenger front side is -1.4
Driver rear side is -3.7
Passenger rear side is -3.3
Front toe is 0.02. Rear toe is 0.04
Your camber is all over the place. Kind of surprising. Mine is different on each corner but it's really close. The fronts are probably within .1 of each other, and the rear is probably the same.
 

LitoCG2Rider

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Naw my car is good as it can get ..:poke: .. I was getting Kevin attention to help me out since I barely see him on aim often ....

Sorry for my post up there ..its not a accord spec ..
 

001Stunna

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It seems as if your rear is a lott lower then your front. At ~1.5 finger gap i had ~
-1.2 -1.3 front
-1.8 -2.4 rear
 

LitoCG2Rider

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Actually there is no gap ..tires is tucked all around ....new tires with new alignment ..I will try to flush the tires in and go from there ..


And yes my car does stance like that boat ...buahaha
 

BlackieCG6

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good thing i searched, maybe some one can drop their 2 cents on my situation no finger gap in front on 17's and i've already busted 1 set of upper ball joints and 1 set of control arms... should i waste money on some spc, ingalls or skunk2 control arms or do i have another solution ?
 

001Stunna

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good thing i searched, maybe some one can drop their 2 cents on my situation no finger gap in front on 17's and i've already busted 1 set of upper ball joints and 1 set of control arms... should i waste money on some spc, ingalls or skunk2 control arms or do i have another solution ?

Your suspension components will see wear and tear from being lowered but i don't see why you'd need a camber kit in the front. It'll actually cause more trouble when you're slammed due to the adjusting nut hitting the upper shock mount frame area.

Just replace the the upper arms with OEM parts...they come with the control arm and balljoint together pre-assembled, and start driving carefully and avoiding potholes/bumps/dips etc as much as you can.
 

BlackieCG6

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Your suspension components will see wear and tear from being lowered but i don't see why you'd need a camber kit in the front. It'll actually cause more trouble when you're slammed due to the adjusting nut hitting the upper shock mount frame area.

Just replace the the upper arms with OEM parts...they come with the control arm and balljoint together pre-assembled, and start driving carefully and avoiding potholes/bumps/dips etc as much as you can.

dont think i need one, just looking for a solution. cars been lowered for 3 years now all of the sudden im busting ball joints, thought it might have something to do with the bigger rim size ? idk... i fixed my passenger side with the complete control arm/ball joint now to the driver side... thanks for ur advice
 

001Stunna

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dont think i need one, just looking for a solution. cars been lowered for 3 years now all of the sudden im busting ball joints, thought it might have something to do with the bigger rim size ? idk... i fixed my passenger side with the complete control arm/ball joint now to the driver side... thanks for ur advice

If the oems that were in the car lasted 3 years of "lowered" driving i'd say you're doing fine. I changed both my oem upper arms and balljoints that came with the car after about a year from installing coilovers
 
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